• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

B/O orange

To make sure I wasnt wrong I proved it to myself. The pictures here show a 2mm loss in travel and in real world actually a little more than that as I had to squeeze hard to get it here and in reality itll probably stop shifting before that. A good reminder of why winding tight coil springs results in guaranteed bind. If you never run at top end not a huge deal. Pic of open clutch measurement with no spring, pic of stacked coils and pic of measurement at max shift due to stacked coils.
CBFDE608-BFCE-4528-8C11-C42449DDA9B2.jpeg
95FC5AB0-FFA8-437E-9CDD-95AF52EED9A3.jpeg
83A48E37-6DE3-4576-883D-07DA9C78CD80.jpeg
 

To make sure I wasnt wrong I proved it to myself. The pictures here show a 2mm loss in travel and in real world actually a little more than that as I had to squeeze hard to get it here and in reality itll probably stop shifting before that. A good reminder of why winding tight coil springs results in guaranteed bind. If you never run at top end not a huge deal. Pic of open clutch measurement with no spring, pic of stacked coils and pic of measurement at max shift due to stacked coils.
View attachment 165914View attachment 165915View attachment 165916
Nice work!!!
 
So, what would be the advantage to swapping out the stock secondary spring to the B/O spring? What would feel different?

Stock 35 helix
Yamaha Blu/Brn/Blu primary spring
Stock weights
XS belt
255hp tune
 
So, what would be the advantage to swapping out the stock secondary spring to the B/O spring? What would feel different?

Stock 35 helix
Yamaha Blu/Brn/Blu primary spring
Stock weights
XS belt
255hp tune
The stock secondary spring will bind up top of wrapped beyond 3/2 SO you will not get full shift out/ mph and or blow belts if held tight for any long distance. Why not run a quality spring that is proven on here by tons of guys? Hell you will probably get a really close recommendation on where to run it at also. As far as feel I don’t know that it will feel different. Maybe it pulls even longer because the spring is not stacking coils against each other( coil bind).
 
So, what would be the advantage to swapping out the stock secondary spring to the B/O spring? What would feel different?

Stock 35 helix
Yamaha Blu/Brn/Blu primary spring
Stock weights
XS belt
255hp tune

The B/O provides better response down low and midrange. It lets the belt follow the secondary sheave off throttle and not allow belt whip. More responsive everywhere, and it will not coil bind where the factory pink does over 50 and the yellow does over 60.

Wrap the new V2 B/O at 80 for sleds at 240 and below, and 90 for sled at 270-300 typically. Higher is more responsive and holds the belt better.
 
The B/O provides better response down low and midrange. It lets the belt follow the secondary sheave off throttle and not allow belt whip. More responsive everywhere, and it will not coil bind where the factory pink does over 50 and the yellow does over 60.

Wrap the new V2 B/O at 80 for sleds at 240 and below, and 90 for sled at 270-300 typically. Higher is more responsive and holds the belt better.
Mike, would you explain "wrap at 80"
 
The B/O provides better response down low and midrange. It lets the belt follow the secondary sheave off throttle and not allow belt whip. More responsive everywhere, and it will not coil bind where the factory pink does over 50 and the yellow does over 60.

Wrap the new V2 B/O at 80 for sleds at 240 and below, and 90 for sled at 270-300 typically. Higher is more responsive and holds the belt better.
Thanks. I actually have one of these springs laying around. I'll give it a try.

I'm currently running the stock spring wrapped at 50 or 60. No belts issues. I like the idea of more response.
 
80 degrees. So 6-2.
90 Degrees is 6-3. All you do is add the two numbers together.

I've brought shame to myself & the entire "Totally Yamaha" family.
I'll have to look at things better, when I have them apart.
I too ordered a b/I spring. Thanks for clarifying.
 
Guaranteed at that wrap the coils are stacked tight against each other and preventing shift out. Remove spring and reinstall helix and open clutch all the way. Measure distance across the sheaves, reinstall pink spring at anything over 3-3 and use a drill press or hydraulic press to open clutch back up and remeasure distance across sheaves and you will see how much travel is lost. The b/o spring may have scuff marks but it shifts all the way no problem even with yamaha helixs which have shorter pocket than daltons. If you were losing rpm with b/0 spring you had something else going on because at 6-2 or 6-3 it wont overshift.
Ok i will check into it, is 3-3 - 60 degrees because 19 srx came wrapped at 6 - 2 wich i thought was 80 degrees so at 6-3 is that 90, it will rev at 9000 -9100 all day in any conditions pulling 110mpg on gps with a 1.5" track
 
The B/O provides better response down low and midrange. It lets the belt follow the secondary sheave off throttle and not allow belt whip. More responsive everywhere, and it will not coil bind where the factory pink does over 50 and the yellow does over 60.

Wrap the new V2 B/O at 80 for sleds at 240 and below, and 90 for sled at 270-300 typically. Higher is more responsive and holds the belt better.

Will this affect total RPM? I'm at 9,000 rpm with the stock spring wrapped at 50.
 
Will this affect total RPM? I'm at 9,000 rpm with the stock spring wrapped at 50.

It could yes. What most don’t understand is the stock springs are right there at coil bind making them hold RPM, but restricting them from shifting out further too.
 
Ok i will check into it, is 3-3 - 60 degrees because 19 srx came wrapped at 6 - 2 wich i thought was 80 degrees so at 6-3 is that 90, it will rev at 9000 -9100 all day in any conditions pulling 110mpg on gps with a 1.5" track
The pink springs came wrapped at 3-3, if yours was 6-2 then that was done at dealer.
 


Back
Top