• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Barn of Parts Oil Tank Gasket

Wouldn't hot oil have a higher chance of leaking or seeping than just room temperature water?

Viscosity of water is much thinner than even hot oil I would think. It just a static test with liquid to start.

Today I pressurized tank to 20lbs and submerged in a tub of water. Seal held just fine. The rtv seal for the top vent cap however leaked, and the sight hose leaked. After seeing this I'm a bit skeptical the tank can build much pressure even if roll over valve freezes. I feel like there is an escape route somewhere in connections for it to relieve some pressure. After all...the vipers have been leaking since 2014 and there is no roll over valve. I think it comes down to the inconsistent gasket maker and how it is applied.
 
Last edited:

I'm the Performance Gasket manager at Mahle I have all sorts of gaskets made. If I can help let me know as I have the capability of getting the proper material. All I would need is a tank to make a die off of.

Someone should be taking this guy up on his offer
 
So whats the solution to make it bullet proof? Apex oil tank LOL


Re-seal the tank with ultra black silicone, let it sit for a day or more to cure before filling with oil, remove the ROV.

Mine hasn't leaked since and I don't even worry about that anymore.
 
I wonder why they decided to make it that way but without an actual o-ring seal? On the other hand, they DID put the oil tank in that location so it appears they weren't thinking

We stopped wondering WHY 2 years ago. Now we think how to fix it.
Some call it Cat DNA.
Some call it just plain YUCKY!
 
Re-seal the tank with ultra black silicone, let it sit for a day or more to cure before filling with oil, remove the ROV.

Mine hasn't leaked since and I don't even worry about that anymore.
ultra black seems to work. we have tried blue and Yamaha bond with no luck. finally at the end of the season we tried the ultra black on one of the machines that was leaking badly. so far no leaks
 
ultra black seems to work. we have tried blue and Yamaha bond with no luck. finally at the end of the season we tried the ultra black on one of the machines that was leaking badly. so far no leaks

I wonder how well Permatex The Right Stuff would work. I have used it in other similar situations and it worked well.
 
ultra black seems to work. we have tried blue and Yamaha bond with no luck. finally at the end of the season we tried the ultra black on one of the machines that was leaking badly. so far no leaks
The Optimum Black I used works amazing....when i had to open/remove chaincase after I had sealed it, it was so tightly sealed I couldn't open it! I actually had to use a pry bar to get it open....tough stuff!

The key factor is good clean surfaces, then allowing it to set up abit before pressing the cover on too tightly, which pushing most of the silicone outward, and IMO this is why they all leak, as they are put together too fast at factory and too much pushes out.

I mated the surface so silicone touches each case, hand tightened bolts lightly.....let it sit well over and hour allowing the silicone to thicken, before torquing down.

This is same as ultra black but is aimed at lightweight components(IE: Magnesium)

Dan
IMG_2957.jpg
IMG_2958.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hey Dan, funny you should post that - I just finished using that exact product to fix my oil tank seal.

Wasn't planning on it, but after a really hot week there was a puddle of oil under the sled and the oil level had dropped on the indicator.
Good news - I was about to change the oils anyway.
Bad news - pretty pathetic a new sled with only 2600km needs to have this done.

After taking it apart that old gasket was so thin it was a joke. Using gas to clean things up it virtually dissolved the gasket the minute gas hit it.

As for the Optimum Black - I agree with you. The key is to make the bolts snug and allow it to set then torque down after 60-80 min. Didn't bother using Loctite on the bolts (defeats the purpose if you crack it an hour later after it sets). The fasteners they used are not normal threaded bolts, they look like more of a machined screw.

Hope it all works out.
MS
 
I would say initially don't use loctite, but once the seal has had a chance to firm up you can put some loctite on the bolts before you torque them down. ;)!
 
I agree, the gasket maker is mickey mouse. But in the absence of a gasket, gotta keep the oil in the tank somehow.
MS
 
The Optimum Black I used works amazing....when i had to open/remove chaincase after I had sealed it, it was so tightly sealed I couldn't open it! I actually had to use a pry bar to get it open....tough stuff!

The key factor is good clean surfaces, then allowing it to set up abit before pressing the cover on too tightly, which pushing most of the silicone outward, and IMO this is why they all leak, as they are put together too fast at factory and too much pushes out.

I mated the surface so silicone touches each case, hand tightened bolts lightly.....let it sit well over and hour allowing the silicone to thicken, before torquing down.

This is same as ultra black but is aimed at lightweight components(IE: Magnesium)

Dan
View attachment 148926 View attachment 148927

Dan are you going to use that stuff on your new Ski Doo?
 


Back
Top