Bettter Quality Replacement bearings?

[SumpBuster]

Guys 4 little peen marks and clean grease is all thats needed. Dont Loctite its a bugger to remove. If shaft is wore bad buy a new one.

True....I could never knurl worth a d*m anyway! lol!

 

[SumpBuster]

I do wonder though....the chain case side on my apex/rx's, etc, were slide on fit bearings yet the pto side had the set screw style, locked to the shaft.
Why? Same stresses holding track tension, but one is in the oil bath...just curious.

 

[cannondale27]

I do wonder though....the chain case side on my apex/rx's, etc, were slide on fit bearings yet the pto side had the set screw style, locked to the shaft.
Why? Same stresses holding track tension, but one is in the oil bath...just curious.

For this reason. Has to be since the little set screws really wouldnt do anything for any sideloads. Stains idea is a great one. Eliminates possibility of some Dick tightening the crap out of a set screw buggering up shaft and making bearing removal a bugger. Ever seen that with the old style set screw style? or how about stripped little allen screw? You guys all seem to have a short memory for all the little problems we all dealt with on our old Yamahas. I still say this sled has least maintenance in hrs of any Yamaha I ever worked on and rides a hell of alot better!

 

[SumpBuster]

For this reason. Has to be since the little set screws really wouldnt do anything for any sideloads. Stains idea is a great one. Eliminates possibility of some Dick tightening the crap out of a set screw buggering up shaft and making bearing removal a bugger. Ever seen that with the old style set screw style? or how about stripped little allen screw? You guys all seem to have a short memory for all the little problems we all dealt with on our old Yamahas. I still say this sled has least maintenance in hrs of any Yamaha I ever worked on and rides a hell of alot better!

Oh yeah...lol...I don't think my ski doos had set screws...can't remember. I did find this because I like to learn stuff..

 

[SumpBuster]

For this reason. Has to be since the little set screws really wouldnt do anything for any sideloads. Stains idea is a great one. Eliminates possibility of some Dick tightening the crap out of a set screw buggering up shaft and making bearing removal a bugger. Ever seen that with the old style set screw style? or how about stripped little allen screw? You guys all seem to have a short memory for all the little problems we all dealt with on our old Yamahas. I still say this sled has least maintenance in hrs of any Yamaha I ever worked on and rides a hell of alot better!

And true, I haven't had to do anything to the sw yet...and will never have to do 3 donut jobs....lol

 

[cannondale27]

That makes sense but even a rookie machinist on a home lathe could make a tighter "Slip Fit" than Cat did. Slip fit wont harm the bearing.

 

[cannondale27]

And true, I haven't had to do anything to the sw yet...and will never have to do 3 donut jobs....lol

I remember lots of 06 Apex chaincases blowing all the oil out and frying everything in there too. Countless bushings. Slider wear.Steering slop. etc.

 

[SumpBuster]

That makes sense but even a rookie machinist on a home lathe could make a tighter "Slip Fit" than Cat did. Slip fit wont harm the bearing.

I agree. I wonder if track tension is a factor. Haven't had my axle out yet so I'm not sure what kind of fit is on mine...loose is not good in any case.

 

[SumpBuster]

I remember lots of 06 Apex chaincases blowing all the oil out and frying everything in there too. Countless bushings. Slider wear.Steering slop. etc.

Bushings and slop..lol...but chaincase is good (on mine)!
I did a track last spring for a friend's 06 and found some metal and a ground snap ring in the chaincase! Good thing he wanted a new track....

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Im hoping mine doesnt spin this season....peened 4 spots.

Dan

 

[SumpBuster]

Im hoping mine doesnt spin this season....peened 4 spots.

Dan

Hope so too....but wouldn't the least resistance be the turning balls, not trying to spin on the shaft? Unless for some reason the balls start to stick, then spinning on the shaft is easier..but at that point the bearing is gone anyway? Used to lose my front axle bearings on my 71 skiroule s300 and it still bugs me to this day!!

 

[XP123]

Keep your track tight and this will increase the pressure between the bearing and shaft.

What I don't understand is for many years we had driveshaft bearings with a locking collar that was so simple and easy to deal with and now we don't resulting in spinning bearing and damaged driveshafts.

I have no idea how Poo or Doo deals with this or what type of design they have but you don't hear about this issue from them.

My Apex and nytro had a bearing with locking collar on the clutch side driveshaft and I could change it out in about 20 minutes. I guess that was too easy for the Cat engineers so they came up with something we have to screw with and worry about.

 

[SumpBuster]

Keep your track tight and this will increase the pressure between the bearing and shaft.

What I don't understand is for many years we had driveshaft bearings with a locking collar that was so simple and easy to deal with and now we don't resulting in spinning bearing and damaged driveshafts.

I have no idea how Poo or Doo deals with this or what type of design they have but you don't hear about this issue from them.

My Apex and nytro had a bearing with locking collar on the clutch side driveshaft and I could change it out in about 20 minutes. I guess that was too easy for the Cat engineers so they came up with something we have to screw with and worry about.

Here's the clutch side bearing for my 2001 machz. Not sure if this is still in use. There was an outer plate with a grease fitting.

 

[KnappAttack]

Keep your track tight and this will increase the pressure between the bearing and shaft.

What I don't understand is for many years we had driveshaft bearings with a locking collar that was so simple and easy to deal with and now we don't resulting in spinning bearing and damaged driveshafts.

I have no idea how Poo or Doo deals with this or what type of design they have but you don't hear about this issue from them.

My Apex and nytro had a bearing with locking collar on the clutch side driveshaft and I could change it out in about 20 minutes. I guess that was too easy for the Cat engineers so they came up with something we have to screw with and worry about.

Joe, I ran my track fiddle string tight and it makes no difference, Shaft is shot at 2301 Miles! You're right in the fact they should have a lock collar or set screws of some type on them with the way its engineered. I'm going to drill and tap the new shaft and will be installing a set screw from the inside out to hopefully prevent this in the future. Not sure ho that is going to last long term as the screw is going to go against a hardened race, my worry there is it may still slip as it can't get a dent into that hardened race. Also the shaft won't run true if there is 5 thousands fit between them. That means a .010 runout of the disc and shaft with one set screw. My fear if more than one set screw is possible shaft weakness and breakage. It's a poor design from a sub par engineer that designed it. The Cat guys might put up with it but I can't. It needs a redesign for sure, but here we are how many years out and its still a problem. I'm just glad mine has a 5 year warranty.

 

[XP123]

Here's the clutch side bearing for my 2001 machz. Not sure if this is still in use. There was an outer plate with a grease fitting. View attachment 143728 View attachment 143729

That's another thing I miss. Back in the 80's my Polaris sleds had a grease fitting on that driveshaft bearing behind the speedometer key that worked great. Every so often I would pump a few shots of grease in there and watch the water come out. As long as you kept that bearing greased you never had to change it.