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Blown belts?

so what causes the belt to be flipped right out and over the primary? has to be secondary binding?

That's called "over machining the primary" to get more overdrive and a big problem.
 

Ok great..... more belt part numbers below.



SW Belt choices.jpg
 
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Never blew a belt, ever, not even on my sidewinder! I rode it hard all winter, best sled I've ever owned. I take belt "breaking in" seriously and it pays off imo. When i begin a ride I always start smoothly to warm it up, on off throttle for about 10 to 15 minutes.
 
For anyone wondering how all these belts price out....here are some "best prices" of these belts....Anyone got anymore belt options, add em to the thread!

Man that 8DN is cheap!
Belt Prices SW.jpg
 
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I had very good belt life last year blew one belt with 1000miles on it and the second is still going strong and I ride the #*$&@ out of my sled. Here is something I noticed last year while messing with my secondary it appears when aggressively breaking and stabbing the throttle there isn't enough torsion on the secondary when set at 60deg or less I set mine to 70 and with the new thunder spring will try 80 or 90. If you look at the pic you will see marks where the sliding sheeve moved straight sideways into the fixed sheave and this pic was just taken today and I polished that all clean at 1700miles when it was much worse and the last 500miles 2 marks but set at 70deg. If you look close you can see where I polished it off and there is still a mark above the recent ones. Those having issues please post pics of your secondary taken apart this may be the cause of the belts blowing?
 
^ Wow, that is crazy.....Could you post a few more pics maybe further away abit, Im trying to get a handle on specifically what is hitting where, this could be culprit.

So that is the inner sheave correct? which moves along with the helix.

thnx
 
Here is pic of when I worked on this one....so its the angled section that is hitting right? Not too far away from stud that helix bolts on to.


IMG_8697.JPG
 
Never blew a belt, ever, not even on my sidewinder! I rode it hard all winter, best sled I've ever owned. I take belt "breaking in" seriously and it pays off imo. When i begin a ride I always start smoothly to warm it up, on off throttle for about 10 to 15 minutes.
this is exactly how I treat my belts. they explode
 
Here is pic of when I worked on this one....so its the angled section that is hitting right? Not too far away from stud that helix bolts on to.


View attachment 130180
I dropped my sled off at the dealer today, the first thing we noticed when we took it apart was marks exactly like you are showing there.
 
Here is pic of when I worked on this one....so its the angled section that is hitting right? Not too far away from stud that helix bolts on to.


View attachment 130180
I just put my secondary back on so I can't get more pics at the moment but that is exactly where I'm talking about and with these springs that will eliminate coil bind we should be able to run more wind and hopefully eliminate this problem. I'm currently running the new thunder spring on tar wound at 30 deg because it makes me quicker in the 1/4 mile but for trail riding I think we will see the 80-90deg to be the answer and eliminate the issue also giving more low end rpm hopefully lessening the delay also? We will wait and see.
 
The secondary is not shifting fast enough!
Steeper cam angle and a bit less weight in the front. Make it #$%&* #$%&*shift.........
For sure the primary spring need to be change. Ultimax xs belt======= belt problem solve for me with those litle mod ;-)

BTW i am not a taxi driver
I couldn't have said it better! I for sure am in the steeper angle helix camp. ESPECIALLY if your boosted. Even stockers need s smidge more helix.
 
I just put my secondary back on so I can't get more pics at the moment but that is exactly where I'm talking about and with these springs that will eliminate coil bind we should be able to run more wind and hopefully eliminate this problem. I'm currently running the new thunder spring on tar wound at 30 deg because it makes me quicker in the 1/4 mile but for trail riding I think we will see the 80-90deg to be the answer and eliminate the issue also giving more low end rpm hopefully lessening the delay also? We will wait and see.

So you feel this hit happens when you let off, and whack it again quickly correct? I am gonna tear into mine when it arrives so I can simulate what happens on the bench, and if it is something very hard to describe I will shoot a video to convey it here.

So the thoughts are same here, the too low side pressure of the stock torsion spring is not pushing the secondary closed back fast enough under this type of riding. So the 70 helped abit over stock 60. But now we got 2 new spring to play with.

Dale and I talked alot last winter about a new secondary spring, and he tested and came up with one which helps this from not having enough side pressure.

I will post this hear in case people missed this in other thread.....Great info here from Dale(Dalton)

I hilighted things, and added some notes for us all...the compression load is key here when comparing. Look at the comparison to stock yellow spring, especially down LOW, then as it compresses and speeds increase it comes closer in line to the stocker for top speed. Dale did his homework on this, as shown by these specs. Anxious to try it.

Dan
dalton sec spring.jpg
Dalton Secondary spring.jpg
 
So you feel this hit happens when you let off, and whack it again quickly correct? I am gonna tear into mine when it arrives so I can simulate what happens on the bench, and if it is something very hard to describe I will shoot a video to convey it here.

So the thoughts are same here, the too low side pressure of the stock torsion spring is not pushing the secondary closed back fast enough under this type of riding. So the 70 helped abit over stock 60. But now we got 2 new spring to play with.

Dale and I talked alot last winter about a new secondary spring, and he tested and came up with one which helps this from not having enough side pressure.

I will post this hear in case people missed this in other thread.....Great info here from Dale(Dalton)

I hilighted things, and added some notes for us all...the compression load is key here when comparing. Look at the comparison to stock yellow spring, especially down LOW, then as it compresses and speeds increase it comes closer in line to the stocker for top speed. Dale did his homework on this, as shown by these specs. Anxious to try it.

DanView attachment 130194 View attachment 130195
I believe it's happening when locking the brakes the belt instantly slacks and instead of torsioning and riding down the ramps it slams straight sideways or when punching it it goes straight sideways instead of twisting I'm not sure but a quicker backshift I think will solve this hopefully these new springs do the trick!
 


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