TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
Don, whats the damage.
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Well, I started with the first suggestion and built a tool to test for leaks. I also checked the waste gate base crack pressure to see what was my base boost. There’s a thread on that and I had set mine initially for 11lbs. which made it 10lbs. on low boost, now it looks like it’s sitting at 8.5lbs. so does this mean my waste gate spring has weakened a little and I should tighten it up? Anyway then I checked for leaks and found that a couple of my carb caps are leaking. These are stock and not the billet ones. Anyway I checked them and found that the rubber on one of them was slightly pinched but not damaged and the other looked good. I tried different caps off my stock sled and they still leak. I guess I’ll have to change them to billet caps, do these really make a difference? I don’t think that many guys are running with these. Anyway I’m going to take it for a spin and see how it looks now, not sure if it sealed any better, but I know the boost was holding at 10lbs. on asphalt all summer.
Hey Jim you got any billet caps on hand?
Hey Jim you got any billet caps on hand?
hlmrx1 said:
Nope. Give Ted a call, I think he has some in stock. Give me a call when you get back from your ride and we'll go over where you're at...
Blue shadow
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Take the caps and file it down on a flat glass with the sand paper on it.They will be like new again.You will have to put a 1 mm washer before the screw so it comes tight again.
rxrider
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Blue shadow said:
I did that last year when the caps startet to leak like crazy at 14 lbs of boost, I could smell fresh gas every time I gave it wot. After some more miles it start to leak at 10 lbs as well. I did like you and ground them down with a sand paper on a flat surface, it helped but they were still leaking but not as much as prior to the sand paper treatment. This fall I installed the STMs, no leaks so far.
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
Don
Definately the problem. The braiding pulls into the center choking off the exhaust!
Get it fixed or it will possibly cause engine troubles if you can't get all that boost back out. Same exact problem I had.
Not the best solution Im sure but I made sure my exhaust could float somewhat and then put a solid piece in there instead of the flex.
The flex should be the same size as the solid part it should not be choked off.
Another way to fix this is when I noticed the CPR kit he seems to use a set of springs and a cap and socket to give a little movement in the pipe.
Definately the problem. The braiding pulls into the center choking off the exhaust!
Get it fixed or it will possibly cause engine troubles if you can't get all that boost back out. Same exact problem I had.
Not the best solution Im sure but I made sure my exhaust could float somewhat and then put a solid piece in there instead of the flex.
The flex should be the same size as the solid part it should not be choked off.
Another way to fix this is when I noticed the CPR kit he seems to use a set of springs and a cap and socket to give a little movement in the pipe.
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I don't understand why this would happen, is it possible these things are like that new? I'm going to have to call Dave and see what he's done to correct this in the past. I was thinking of having it cut open, remove the braiding on the inside and welding i back together, what do you think? The first one I had was a socket too, but it had exhaust flanges to hold them together with bolts. The flanges would bend then the whole thing was loose. Can't go straight to the tunnel, at least not in the summer. Looks like it may be another waste of money, just got that dam thing last spring!!!!!!
hlmrx1 said:
Don,
Do you have the old S bend from last year still?
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=fern
Look at pictures 64, 64 in this thread. This fix has been working all winter on Fern's sled, which is the exact same kit as yours. If you still have the original pieces, I can fix this up for you pretty quick. I will charge you $5.00 though.
Look at pictures 64, 64 in this thread. This fix has been working all winter on Fern's sled, which is the exact same kit as yours. If you still have the original pieces, I can fix this up for you pretty quick. I will charge you $5.00 though.
TurboJamie
TY 4 Stroke God
I think Dave is tweaking them also. That is your problem though , take it from me fix that and all will be well. Guess what also I would hazard a guess thats why your header cracked in the first place building all that heat and it had nowhere to go.
hlmrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
lakercr said:
Hey Jim, wouldn't the muffler he's using also restrict the flow?
powderlites
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exhaust flex joint
We had in the last couple of weeks flex joints fail and need to remove inner stainless weave.
Sorry guys but like all things you never know when they change parts on us
We had in the last couple of weeks flex joints fail and need to remove inner stainless weave.
Sorry guys but like all things you never know when they change parts on us
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