fourbarrel
Building a collection one sled at a time
How much has to be removed from the sled to put these from his guards on a '19 SRX? I have the tunnel guards too and from what I've read they need to be shortened up to fit properly with the hose guards? I'm hoping to tackle this job on the weekend and want to know what I have ahead of me before getting surprised halfway through.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Remove side panels and hood, seat and plastic cover over gas tank. Remove two pyramid bars over gas tank. Just slide tank back and to side to get at bolts. Also drop rear suspension rear bolts.
No need to mess with front mount of rear suspension.
No need to mess with front mount of rear suspension.
fourbarrel
Building a collection one sled at a time
I should have noted in my initial post that I figure on taking the skid out anyway to go over it all, but I appreciate the info on what else needs to come off or be moved.
SAB1
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Hmmm. I would call Travis. I installed mine a few years ago and didn’t have to do all the above. Had them installed very quickly as I recall.
WinderFab
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How do you get at the bolts if you don’t do what 1nc 2000 said ?Hmmm. I would call Travis. I installed mine a few years ago and didn’t have to do all the above. Had them installed very quickly as I recall.
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
No need to take the two pyramid bars out.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Without moving the tank could not get a torx socket on the bolt to loosen it up. Mine is a 17 model year. Don't know if tank is different.
WinderFab
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True.. but it’s a good idea to do so just to check the rivets under the tank, mine were all loose where tunnel Mets the heat exchanger..No need to take the two pyramid bars out.
They changed that to a standard hex bolt.Without moving the tank could not get a torx socket on the bolt to loosen it up. Mine is a 17 model year. Don't know if tank is different.
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
I believe the bolts that BOP supplies are hex in his kit and the stock bolts are the gold coloured Torx.True.. but it’s a good idea to do so just to check the rivets under the tank, mine were all loose where tunnel Mets the heat exchanger..
They changed that to a standard hex bolt.
SAB1
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I don’t have my sled available to look at. Mine is also a 17. I recall talking to Travis about the install when I bought them as I am not a wrench. It was easy to do and Took little time. Yes his bolts are hex head. I also recall seeing a post here where someone removed them and found that they had started wear the exchanger where they make contact with it. I believe that person was going to try install rubber or something inside them to stop that. Probably a good idea.
Sevey
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Its been awhile but pretty sure i just pulled the skid out and was able to reach up in there. SPend some time with a file to clean up any sharp edges where the protector sits against the coolant lines.
MS
MS
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Like said above, file the edges, plus I found putting a washer between the protector and tunnel keeps the protector off the coolant lines.
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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This is what I ended up doing. 1.5" track.
Track has had 196 studs installed after picture was taken.
Track has had 196 studs installed after picture was taken.
fourbarrel
Building a collection one sled at a time
This is the reply I got from Travis about the install.
They are quite easy to install. Gas tank does not need to be removed. Just remove the screws that attach the footwell plastic and then you can gain access to the nuts on the foot well bar mounting bolt under gas tank.
They are quite easy to install. Gas tank does not need to be removed. Just remove the screws that attach the footwell plastic and then you can gain access to the nuts on the foot well bar mounting bolt under gas tank.
fourbarrel
Building a collection one sled at a time
I am interested in looking at these rivets though. Is this a common issue with the Winders? How many miles do you figure on the chassis before inspecting them?
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