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Brake Pads & Brake performance...


It would be nice if you could get all the different types of pads and all the different lightweight disc and test for performance and post results…


HaHa, I'd have actually done that back in the day if I was racing ovals or something. Now I just want my one finger brake back.

Hopeful the new pads will give me that back, I'm betting they do. I think I actually smoked and baked the stock ones to the point of not grabbing at all. I remember at one time they made noise and squealed too. Now they don't grip hard enough for a kitty cat let alone a Winder.
 
No they dont look Glassy, but they just looked very cooked, burned up & flakey. I just ordered up some new Semi-Metalic Niche brand brake pads off eBay to try now based on the guys here saying that new pads seemed to fix things. Looks like you can get organic, semi-metallic of full metallic. I elected for the semi-metallic which should be what the factory pads are. If they dont work well, I'll get some factory pads in there.

My disc is in fine shape and not warped at all, so lets see how these aftermarket pads work out. I remember when new I had a one finger brake and could lock the track all to easily, had to be careful not to lock the track, I'm sure I can get that back as the lever is very solid & has new fluid in it.

Thanks for all the comments guys!
Much of a price difference between stock and the ones you ordered?
 
Much of a price difference between stock and the ones you ordered?

$21 for the Semi-Metalaic Niche brand I ordered from eBay. More than $80 for the stock factory ones on Partzilla by the time you put tax on them.
 
Here is something interesting I should share. So because I had the stock pads out this week checking the piston movement in the stock caliper. I wire brushed the stock pads up because I knew ordering them was going to take a bit to get here. I figured they may be glazed and maybe I could bring them "back to life" a little bit. Had the sled out today to do a bit of testing (ended up being 65 miles of testing), low and behold they did come back to life! I can use one finger back on the lever again and the brakes work 90% better just scuffing them up with a hand held wire brush. I'd have never figured that to work like it did seeing the baked & burned condition of those stock pads! Holy glazed brake pad recovery Batman!
 
Here is something interesting I should share. So because I had the stock pads out this week checking the piston movement in the stock caliper. I wire brushed the stock pads up because I knew ordering them was going to take a bit to get here. I figured they may be glazed and maybe I could bring them "back to life" a little bit. Had the sled out today to do a bit of testing (ended up being 65 miles of testing), low and behold they did come back to life! I can use one finger back on the lever again and the brakes work 90% better just scuffing them up with a hand held wire brush. I'd have never figured that to work like it did seeing the baked & burned condition of those stock pads! Holy glazed brake pad recovery Batman!
Did you file the edges, every single stop on mine is squeekier than a field mouse.
 
Did you file the edges, every single stop on mine is squeekier than a field mouse.

HaHA, no, if you saw them there isn't much left of the edges. They are flaked out and burned beyond imagination. The edges are flaky and crumbling. Mine used to squeak, but not a peep for years. They actually look like they were heat treated under the space shuttles engines at launch. LOL!
 
Service manual states to change brake fluid every year.
IMO, stock pads are suspect. Seems to toast after many big pulls and trying to get sled hauled in before lake runs out.
 
Service manual states to change brake fluid every year.
IMO, stock pads are suspect. Seems to toast after many big pulls and trying to get sled hauled in before lake runs out.

Agreed. Amazingly enough though, a good wire brushing refreshes the pads though, which I never thought would work like it did.

I'm back to one finger braking with just the a wire brushing of the pad faces. Pretty crazy to me that it went from being dangerous to ride, to one finger braking like that! SOB wouldn't even barely slow down let alone lock the track. I'll still replace the pads but just find it crazy wire brushing made the difference like that.
 
The first year of riding my sled the brakes squeaked often, but the squeak eventually went away on its own. Almost 6000 miles now.
Pads over 50%, I like that I can control some of the braking with that lever on the right side compared to the days of riding two-strokes.
 
Over the years of riding my Yamaha four strokes[going on two decades now] I have been told by riders behind me many times that my brake light is not working as during normal rides I so rarely have to use the brakes with such effective engine braking...especially on my Attak.
 
LOL. Yeah, we've all heard about how you ride!
On one hand, my Cat has very noticable engine braking precluding the need for using brakes sometimes but on the other hand, it's got a ton of power making it very necessary to use brakes hard! As KA found out, apparently we can revive toasted pads with stout wire brush.
 
LOL. Yeah, we've all heard about how you ride!
On one hand, my Cat has very noticable engine braking precluding the need for using brakes sometimes but on the other hand, it's got a ton of power making it very necessary to use brakes hard! As KA found out, apparently we can revive toasted pads with stout wire brush.

Drive it in hard until you see God, then brake!

I got out this last week to do a little testing and found myself up to 120 so hard and fast on the trail I was really using brake at the end of the straightaway in a too short field on one nice trail that was actually groomed. 6 seconds from hitting full throttle to 120 on the logs and the graph was still climbing straight upward, and yet I keep testing and trying to improve it. LOL! Yep kinda crazy. Is it any wonder we need good brakes too...

Seriously I don't drive em like that normally or when one can't see, but this just happened to be in a good open field. People are going to think these idiot Winder riders are running around everywhere like that all the time. I dont care how fast it is upstairs, but I want it to hit 120 in a blink.

I dont feel however that the 998 has near enough engine braking, I really wished it had WAY more than it does now. I think thats why the brakes get used so hard. I wished it had the extreme engine braking the old Apex had. I don't like using the brakes as hard and as much as we have to.
 
6 seconds from hitting full throttle to 120 on the logs and the graph was still climbing straight upward,
THIS is what keeps guys on these sleds! The ride but damn its just so much pull the KEEPS pulling.. Smooth
 
i have the super lite rotor from ssi on my two sleds and did change to the ceramic pads from KIMPEX as they leave no black dust.... but they only lasted about a year... 2500 miles of abuse. the drilled rotor really mills the pad dwn. put stock style back on now. Knapp , since you have caliper appart like i did last week, change your fluid to the purple silicone race fluid by prestone.
 


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