BROKEN PRIMARY SPRINGS. Keep eye on.

Hummmm, what does this mean?
20170301_180245.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: AXR
GlennM said:
Hummmm, what does this mean?View attachment 127333
Click to expand...
I am no expert by any means, but I would say it looks similar to mine. I was told it's not coil bind per se if paint is missing on the outside of coils vs inside. Definitely rubbing, though. NOS-PRO, shagman, and Cannondale can tell you more. I would definitely get rid of the stock primary spring if it were me. Too long imo.
 
Last edited:
Snowaddict said:
I am no expert by any means, but I would say it looks similar to mine. I was told it's not coil bind per se if paint is missing on the outside of coils vs inside. Definitely rubbing, though. NOS-PRO, shagman, and Cannondale can tell you more. I would definitely get rid of the stock primary spring if it were me. Too long imo.
Click to expand...

I have seen a ton of these now and my theory is....#1 the spring is too long, #2 the spring either has a hard spot from heat treating or a soft spot that is causing this spring to not compress in a straight motion. Think about putting a spacer in a coil spring on a car or truck....one side only. The spring will compress and bend making marks on the shock and spring.
coil spring.jpg


When a spring breaks, like the secondary springs were breaking all the time....it was in the same spot.
I am betting all the primary springs that have broke are in the same area also.

Working in a machine shop and the difference with all types of metals, heat treating, shot peening, hardness tests and certs.... I was happy to hear that Thunder Products uses a special wire, shot peening, heat treating process that their springs will not only last, but won't break. Haven't heard of a primary spring of theirs breaking yet.
 
NOS-PRO said:
I have seen a ton of these now and my theory is....#1 the spring is too long, #2 the spring either has a hard spot from heat treating or a soft spot that is causing this spring to not compress in a straight motion. Think about putting a spacer in a coil spring on a car or truck....one side only. The spring will compress and bend making marks on the shock and spring.
View attachment 127340

When a spring breaks, like the secondary springs were breaking all the time....it was in the same spot.
I am betting all the primary springs that have broke are in the same area also.

Working in a machine shop and the difference with all types of metals, heat treating, shot peening, hardness tests and certs.... I was happy to hear that Thunder Products uses a special wire, shot peening, heat treating process that their springs will not only last, but won't break. Haven't heard of a primary spring of theirs breaking yet.
Click to expand...
Terry, are these Yammie springs suffering from the same ole "Chinese" junk syndrome like many other sled manufacturers are? I think on the brp 1200s we had a new updated secondary spring just about every model yr since 09!

Dan
 
ROCKERDAN said:
Terry, are these Yammie springs suffering from the same ole "Chinese" junk syndrome like many other sled manufacturers are? I think on the brp 1200s we had a new updated secondary spring just about every model yr since 09!

Dan
Click to expand...

Yes
 
dgjr636 said:
View attachment 127290 View attachment 127289 FYI. Stock primary springs are not to long and coil binding. With the clutch completely compressesed there is still a fair amount of space between the coils. Not sure what is causing the spring and spring pocket damage maybe twist bind and spring pushing out sideways when compressed.

Pics of collapsed clutch. Hope you can seen there is still space between the coils.
Click to expand...
If you look at the pic that dgjr636 posted there is nothing near the center of travel for the spring to hit. So for some of these springs to show wear almost halfway up it must mean the spring is compressing unevenly. More at top than the bottom or opposite. Kind of like a dual rate spring but these are not supposed to be.
 
NOS-PRO said:
I have seen a ton of these now and my theory is....#1 the spring is too long, #2 the spring either has a hard spot from heat treating or a soft spot that is causing this spring to not compress in a straight motion. Think about putting a spacer in a coil spring on a car or truck....one side only. The spring will compress and bend making marks on the shock and spring.
View attachment 127340

When a spring breaks, like the secondary springs were breaking all the time....it was in the same spot.
I am betting all the primary springs that have broke are in the same area also.

Working in a machine shop and the difference with all types of metals, heat treating, shot peening, hardness tests and certs.... I was happy to hear that Thunder Products uses a special wire, shot peening, heat treating process that their springs will not only last, but won't break. Haven't heard of a primary spring of theirs breaking yet.
Click to expand...


this is exactly how the spring looks when the clutch is run up in rpms see nos pros picture
 
It makes sense that it's distorting because of a soft spot or even whole section like Nos said. Would also account for some having low Rpms. Soft spring will shift out further and sooner.
 
Can it be that as it compresses and sinks into the pocket on the spider, on full compression (shift out ) its rubbing because its squished and got fat in the middle, since that would be the area of most flex ? Pull the clutch apart and look in the spider pocket and see if it has matching rub marks. Bet it does.
 
swampcat said:
Can it be that as it compresses and sinks into the pocket on the spider, on full compression (shift out ) its rubbing because its squished and got fat in the middle, since that would be the area of most flex ? Pull the clutch apart and look in the spider pocket and see if it has matching rub marks. Bet it does.
Click to expand...
Those pics all show that is the case but its so much closer to middle of spring that it has to be more than that going on. Some of these pics that show wear the spots its worn should never be in the pocket ever. Only explanation for that is that the spring is not compressing evenly over its entire length. It has to be compressing more on one end or the other.
Dgjr's pic of a fully compressed clutch. Area in red is worn and is out of the pocket. I would say any spring worn further up on one end than the other and low rpm issues. Get a new spring.
IMG_1838.jpg
 
Well we rode today on hard snow with great hook up. Warmed up some and snow added more lubrication and became soft. Dropped a ski thru some ice in the ditch spun it sideways and off I went. Right side on the ice and shut off. Let it sit a bit straightened out my power made hand guard which spun all the way around and did not break. Started right up and off we went. A little later from a start the motor cut out from a start threw a code sd 85 I believe. Let off throttle than pinned it everything was good. It still doing it from a stop and slow idle. Back at the trailer I was inspecting things and I do have paint missing on my primary spring on the outside. Not all the way around though. I felt the inside of the clutch cover and it has sharp jagged edges where the spring maybe rubbing on the outside. My season is probably done this year but may be replacing primary cover and a clutch kit and helix. Just want to get the bugs worked out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top