Kuzzy
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So I have been struggling with burning extra fuel after taking my sled to a dealer and getting clutching and a td ecotrail tune installed(cai, sick muffler, contacted td to make sure I had correct tune). The clutching job is not what I would call ideal for a 4 stroke turbo. So I have all new setup coming from Thunder. I am changing the clutching because I think it might be the source of my problems but there is a part of me wondering if the dealer jumped a tooth on my timing chain. It runs pretty rich (I can smell fuel) and compared to a sled that I run with, I burn up to 6 more litres at the gas pump when fueling up when it used to be within half a litre.
If I were to pull my valve cover to see if my timing jumped, what would I see?
If I took a data log with my ns1 gauges, what should I track and is there anybody here that could take a look and help me diagnose my issue?
Spark plugs are gapped to 20thou, and maybe it's because I have babied it sitting in a heated garage, but there are times when it takes 30 tries to get it started when leaving it outside over night.
If I were to pull my valve cover to see if my timing jumped, what would I see?
If I took a data log with my ns1 gauges, what should I track and is there anybody here that could take a look and help me diagnose my issue?
Spark plugs are gapped to 20thou, and maybe it's because I have babied it sitting in a heated garage, but there are times when it takes 30 tries to get it started when leaving it outside over night.
Kuzzy
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Just going through the manual. So I get #3 at tdc and when I look at the cam gears, there should be timing marks that are parallel to eachother?

KnappAttack
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Just going through the manual. So I get #3 at tdc and when I look at the cam gears, there should be timing marks that are parallel to eachother?
Yes, they line up with the head.

DMCTurbo
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Kuzzy
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Thanks a ton guys, I'll need to take a look if my clutching doesn't change anything. Sled isn't here otherwise I'd do it tonight lol. Changing clutching at the cabin shouldn't be an issue, but won't likely have the tools (or the heat) to drive into checking timing. I have over 1k on it the way it is, so I can't see any catastrophic failure happening while testing clutching.
Last edited:


jonlafon1
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30 tries starting in cold weather? Not saying it’s the timing chain but that is not normal at all. I just started my 2022 sitting outside at -20 f. All night. One turn of key cycle fuel pump and fired first Try. Lithium battery also. Earth X.
Kuzzy
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Happened once this year, sled had been parked in the garage then I started it up, ran it up and down the street to warm it up and then parked it in the trailer. It got cold over night and then we trailered an hour away, it was pretty cold out and it would keep firing a piston and then stop. Took quite a few tries (im guessing 30) until it would stay running (on 2 cylinders) then it died again. The next time I hit the key it fired all 3 cylinders and was good to go. Last year a couple times in similar scenarios it would start pretty hard on 2 cylinders until it warmed up enough to run on all 3.30 tries starting in cold weather? Not saying it’s the timing chain but that is not normal at all. I just started my 2022 sitting outside at -20 f. All night. One turn of key cycle fuel pump and fired first Try. Lithium battery also. Earth X.


jonlafon1
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Only time I ever have seen this kind of behavior your describing is on a occasional hot start. It runs low for a second or two and then fires and runs normal rpm’s. 1500 on warm idle. Never had this on cold starts. On a ice cold start mine will idle 1800 rpm and every few minutes it will drop ever so slightly and settle at 1500. This is identical behavior as my 2017. In 12k I never cranked it more then 2 times on ice cold outside starts.
Kuzzy
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Wish I could say the same. Eventually I will get to the cause of my issues. Just might not be this season lol. I'll take some logs, hopefully somebody here can help me out with them.Only time I ever have seen this kind of behavior your describing is on a occasional hot start. It runs low for a second or two and then fires and runs normal rpm’s. 1500 on warm idle. Never had this on cold starts. On a ice cold start mine will idle 1800 rpm and every few minutes it will drop ever so slightly and settle at 1500. This is identical behavior as my 2017. In 12k I never cranked it more then 2 times on ice cold outside starts.


Turboflash
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Not sure why you would bother changing/testing clutching before you know if your cam timing is correct? IF cam timing is off, once corrected your clutch tuning will need to be changed again.Thanks a ton guys, I'll need to take a look if my clutching doesn't change anything. Sled isn't here otherwise I'd do it tonight lol. Changing clutching at the cabin shouldn't be an issue, but won't likely have the tools (or the heat) to drive into checking timing. I have over 1k on it the way it is, so I can't see any catastrophic failure happening while testing clutching.


Turboflash
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Water/condensation in small vacuum lines up front? How about moisture/condensation in relays?Happened once this year, sled had been parked in the garage then I started it up, ran it up and down the street to warm it up and then parked it in the trailer. It got cold over night and then we trailered an hour away, it was pretty cold out and it would keep firing a piston and then stop. Took quite a few tries (im guessing 30) until it would stay running (on 2 cylinders) then it died again. The next time I hit the key it fired all 3 cylinders and was good to go. Last year a couple times in similar scenarios it would start pretty hard on 2 cylinders until it warmed up enough to run on all 3.
Kuzzy
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The engine still runs strong, I haven't paid close attention to the rpm like I should have, but I'm pretty sure I am still getting to the 9000, just nowhere around here to keep it open for that long. My gut says clutching, and where the sled is sitting now I can do the clutching, pulling apart the sled to check timing, is not much of an option. I'll consider it while I'm there tho and if I can check it I will.Not sure why you would bother changing/testing clutching before you know if your cam timing is correct? IF cam timing is off, once corrected your clutch tuning will need to be changed again.
If it is off does that mean that I have to pull the engine apart or is there a way to adjust without pulling a ton of stuff off?
I will pull the hoses off the front and see if there is moisture in there. Thanks for the tip


1nc 2000
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Anybody seen or have a cam jump time just by letting off throttle and hammering the throttle right away with a tune?
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