Cam timing Inspection.

[Motorhead]

Won't be rigid enough, just use something about 8-9mm in diameter with enough length.

After reading Turboflash’s response to you, I realized what you were saying.
Instead of removing my muffler to expose the two plastic screw on plugs for timing from flywheel, use something long enough to put in spark plug hole so that TDC can be found by observing it.

Have used that method on old magneto ignition system timing and I’m sure it would give me a pretty close spot for this, but whereas this is my first time on this one, and I’ve already taken the muffler off, I shall use the marks, but was going to use the long cable tie for finding that spot and stopping just a little short, so that when I pull the cover off minimal flywheel movement is needed! Probably over thinking this, but that’s me doing this for my first time. Next time around, it would go much quicker I’m sure because of the knowledge gained of faster steps! Thanks.

 

[Motorhead]

Did the cam timing inspection and it looks OK. Seems to be 1/2 tooth off but there is no such thing !
See the attached pics.
Top of compression stroke is the one that does not show the 2H0 numbers on
left cam.

Other pic is next rotations at the timing mark!

????

 

[Motorhead]

Did the cam timing inspection and it looks OK. Seems to be 1/2 tooth off but there is no such thing !
See the attached pics.
Top of compression stroke is the one that does not show the 2H0 numbers on
left cam.

Other pic is next rotations at the timing mark!

????

View attachment 166789

So now I can rule out cam timing, and while I was in there, I also checked the valve clearance, that was also OK!

So for those of you who may have some interest in my journey of trying to find my power back, after the installation of an MS17 tune with the TD SQ2.5”. That tune was a fat no power tune period, that could not even pull stock clutch weights for proper rpm, and could not pull the same weights that my prior MS16 tune pulled.

So I went backwards and installed the MS16 tune. Now that one runs very clean, but also will not pull the same weight it did last year! RPM are way off. At this point I am again blaming the flash. I think it corrupted my ECU !!

My last lake test with MS16, I had to revert back to the 8JP and the 35 helix with stock clutch weights to get RPM near what it should be. Install the XS825 and the 35-39 helix and rpm is 8250-8450!

Last years MS16 tune with the Xs825, 35/39 helix, and 1.25 gram heavier then stock weights, was always at or above 9000 rpm....., and of course the speed was greater.

????????

 

[Fords4life]

So now I can rule out cam timing, and while I was in there, I also checked the valve clearance, that was also OK!

So for those of you who may have some interest in my journey of trying to find my power back, after the installation of an MS17 tune with the TD SQ2.5”. That tune was a fat no power tune period, that could not even pull stock clutch weights for proper rpm, and could not pull the same weights that my prior MS16 tune pulled.

So I went backwards and installed the MS16 tune. Now that one runs very clean, but also will not pull the same weight it did last year! RPM are way off. At this point I am again blaming the flash. I think it corrupted my ECU !!

My last lake test with MS16, I had to revert back to the 8JP and the 35 helix with stock clutch weights to get RPM near what it should be. Install the XS825 and the 35-39 helix and rpm is 8250-8450!

Last years MS16 tune with the Xs825, 35/39 helix, and 1.25 gram heavier then stock weights, was always at or above 9000 rpm....., and of course the speed was greater.

????????

Have you checked your exhaust pre turbo for leaks? Chain case, jackshaft, drive axle bearing or bearings going or gone south, secondary binding? Primarey clutch all good? All things i would check out, tri hub bearings?

 

[Fords4life]

Have you checked your exhaust pre turbo for leaks? Chain case, jackshaft, drive axle bearing or bearings going or gone south, secondary binding? Primarey clutch all good? All things i would check out, tri hub bearings?

Low fuel presure will also cause some power loss.

 

[Motorhead]

Have you checked your exhaust pre turbo for leaks? Chain case, jackshaft, drive axle bearing or bearings going or gone south, secondary binding? Primarey clutch all good? All things i would check out, tri hub bearings?

I did check the intermediate pipe prior to taking it off for Cam timing purposes. Saw nothing that looked like a leak.
New Drive axle bearing and all others were well greased prior to season. Both clutches are in good shape and I do not have a Trihub. I have had a JT stealth 4 wheel kit since almost new, and they also came apart for grease this season, the whole suspension was serviced!

Last time out which was Wednesday, my Boost was at 17.7 - 17.8 the two times that I looked at it!

Did my TB spacers prior to this season to try and stay ahead of Boost leaks, but I will have to build a Boost leak tester next so I can rule that out!

 

[Motorhead]

Low fuel presure will also cause some power loss.

Dealer says he can test a fuel regulator in minutes, through the rail, so yeah, that’s another thought!

 

[74Nitro]

Have a leakdown test done on each cylinder.
If that is good, then you should consider datalogging.

 

[Motorhead]

Have a leakdown test done on each cylinder.
If that is good, then you should consider datalogging.

Yes Datalogging would be nice at this point!

 

[Fords4life]

Dealer says he can test a fuel regulator in minutes, through the rail, so yeah, that’s another thought!

A few weeks back my sled would build boost like normal, but my fuel presure was not increasing at same rate as boost, caught it by my afr gauge, and fuel presure gauge, when this happened i was low on rpm and power, turned out my fuel pump would get hot and drop off, let it cool down and away it would go at reduced power, replaced pump and all good again.

 

[Motorhead]

Agreed but its quite easy to do what I did. about 1.5 hrs

Not sure what or how you did that in 1.5 hrs, but you have many tricks up your sleeve that I don’t.

I mean, maybe if your just gonna lift the cover up a couple of inches to take a peek at the alignment marks, but to get that cover completely off, involves many extra steps and removal of more more more!

But nice to know that all looks well inside, even did the valve clearance check and a visual of the chain and components by looking down into the chain side casing!

It took me all of 8 hours but I got hung up on a couple of items, one being those two bolts under that muffler spring bracket which attaches to that aluminum frame/brace. That spring bracket had been loose since my first time removing muffler back in 2017. Those small bolt heads would turn because they were too small and are impossible to hold from motor side. Had to cut with wizzes wheel and then installed 1/4” hardware which actually fit inside that aluminum brace keeper slots! Not sure why Yamaha went with bolts that were too small of a head to fit properly, but what a pain. It’ll come off easy now!

 

[zxtyler]

You were more thorough than I was. I feel like the chain jumping is less common than most other issues. Not saying it doesn’t happen. Glad yours is ok. At least in that area. I changed some hose clamps boost/vacuum and primary rollers AGAIN and last week it was holding 9100 on 280 tune. Seem to pull pretty good. But I can’t nail down the problem. A week in western u.p. About 4 hours from snow at home. So can’t play with it .