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Cam timing Inspection.

Motorhead

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Apr 20, 2003
Messages
2,090
Location
Augusta, Maine
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2017 SW LTX-LE
LOCATION
Augusta ME
I read quite a bit on this on this forum, but have a few questions pertaining to gaskets needed for total job, if in fact I need to remove the Chain Tensioner for cam movement for timing reset.

Does the valve cover have a rubber type reusable gasket?
And same with the Chain Tensioner?
Timing cover and center mag access cover. Plastic screw offs, or rubber pop outs?

So first, the inspection. Pull seat, battery, gas tank shrouding and gas tank. Also pull exhaust muffler to gain access to Mag side of motor.

If timing is off, then need to allow engine to be moved up and forward, by removing intermediate pipe, not Header and maybe a brace, to access the long bolt for that center motor mount. Intake components also need to be removed to allow motor to come forward when lifting motor back to access the Chain Tensioner.

I’m sure I’ve skipped some small steps in this, but hoping for some enlightenment for when I do my inspection!
 

You can also slide something in the spark plug hole of the mag side cylinder and 'rock it' to find TDC. Then have a look at the marks.
 
You can also slide something in the spark plug hole of the mag side cylinder and 'rock it' to find TDC. Then have a look at the marks.
TDC of the #3 cylinder after the compression stroke should give me the alignment needed. Shall use a plastic tie wrap,I have many lengths and sizes? Thanks!
 
TDC of the #3 cylinder after the compression stroke should give me the alignment needed. Shall use a plastic tie wrap,I have many lengths and sizes? Thanks!
Won't be rigid enough, just use something about 8-9mm in diameter with enough length.
 
I took a chance on mine and removed just enough parts to check the chain and cam gears. It’s right where it’s supposed to be. The gasket for valve cover is reusable.
 
You can also slide something in the spark plug hole of the mag side cylinder and 'rock it' to find TDC. Then have a look at the marks.
TDC for cylinder 3 is marked on flywheel. Make sure it's on TDC on overlap. The mark is the first little straight line to the left of the "H" on flywheel. Marks can be seen through small plastic plug on stator cover (not big center one). Once #3 is on TDC you can look at marks on cam gears, etc.
Valve cover gasket is reusable. Technically, cam chain tensioner gasket is not reusable but often it is. Very cheap to get new one. Should be no reason to remove stator cover. If you do, that gasket is definitely not reusable.
Leave front motor mount bolts in but loosen a bit. Have to remove all bolts necessary to swing that alum curved brace behind clutches to gain access to the rear long motor mount bolt under exhaust manifold. PIA.
 
TDC for cylinder 3 is marked on flywheel. Make sure it's on TDC on overlap. The mark is the first little straight line to the left of the "H" on flywheel. Marks can be seen through small plastic plug on stator cover (not big center one). Once #3 is on TDC you can look at marks on cam gears, etc.
Valve cover gasket is reusable. Technically, cam chain tensioner gasket is not reusable but often it is. Very cheap to get new one. Should be no reason to remove stator cover. If you do, that gasket is definitely not reusable.
Leave front motor mount bolts in but loosen a bit. Have to remove all bolts necessary to swing that alum curved brace behind clutches to gain access to the rear long motor mount bolt under exhaust manifold. PIA.
Got it!
How about the fuel return grommet from fuel regulator to top of tank. Does that pull out or does one have to cut that hose crimp clamp off the line and redo that clamp?
 
I took a chance on mine and removed just enough parts to check the chain and cam gears. It’s right where it’s supposed to be. The gasket for valve cover is reusable.
That’s my plan also, unless it did jump a tooth!

But even as you say, just enough parts to check, still means pulling gas tank and muffler to get to both, the cover and the timing marks.
 
I took a chance
That’s my plan also, unless it did jump a tooth!

But even as you say, just enough parts to check, still means pulling gas tank and muffler to get to both, the cover and the timing marks.
That’s my plan also, unless it did jump a tooth!

But even as you say, just enough parts to check, still means pulling gas tank and muffler to get to both, the cover and the timing marks.
on mine and removed just enough parts to check the chain and cam gears. It’s right where it’s supposed to be. The gasket for valve cover is reusable.
 
Agreed but its quite easy to do what I did. about 1.5 hrs
 
Agreed but its quite easy to do what I did. about 1.5 hrs

So what did you do to disconnect the fuel return line from the top of fuel tank.

Did you pull that grommet out from the top of the tank, or cut that crimp style clamp on that fuel line?

I am wondering if that will simply pull out without breaking it. Kinda has to whereas that was a recall where they changed the red elbow to black. Maybe warm it up a bit prior to pulling it.
 
TDC for cylinder 3 is marked on flywheel. Make sure it's on TDC on overlap. The mark is the first little straight line to the left of the "H" on flywheel. Marks can be seen through small plastic plug on stator cover (not big center one). Once #3 is on TDC you can look at marks on cam gears, etc.
Valve cover gasket is reusable. Technically, cam chain tensioner gasket is not reusable but often it is. Very cheap to get new one. Should be no reason to remove stator cover. If you do, that gasket is definitely not reusable.
Leave front motor mount bolts in but loosen a bit. Have to remove all bolts necessary to swing that alum curved brace behind clutches to gain access to the rear long motor mount bolt under exhaust manifold. PIA.
Yes, I'm aware of all that, I just find it a little quicker the without having to remove muffler, or any other parts, depending on model.
 
So what did you do to disconnect the fuel return line from the top of fuel tank.

Did you pull that grommet out from the top of the tank, or cut that crimp style clamp on that fuel line?

I am wondering if that will simply pull out without breaking it. Kinda has to whereas that was a recall where they changed the red elbow to black. Maybe warm it up a bit prior to pulling it.
Gently pull and wiggle the fitting and likely the fitting with grommet attached will all come out. To reinstall, remove grommet and put back on tank and then push the 90 degree fitting back in and your good to go. No need to seperate the line from the fitting.
 
Gently pull and wiggle the fitting and likely the fitting with grommet attached will all come out. To reinstall, remove grommet and put back on tank and then push the 90 degree fitting back in and your good to go. No need to seperate the line from the fitt
OK Thanks. Shall try a bit of heat from a hair dryer to ease it’s removal when I continue on later on today.

I pulled it in the heated garage late yesterday and started on it as it thawed, and that’s where I stopped. Last step before removing gas tank, and today all should be warm and dry.
 


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