Cant get my Viper to turn.

[Groomer08]

DECREASE CENTER SHOCK PRELOAD!!!! ie the front track shock. i dropped preload by .25" and increased bite, only adjustment i got right last sunday, going for more this weekend!

 

[cannondale27]

Saleen I would give you a measurement but mine are revalved. There is a sweet spot but like I said before it is within 2 threads of lift/push to perfect. Stock center shock is not bad in valving area. Just to soft on compression side for me.

 

[saleen347]

Thanks guys. I'll be using your suggestions this weekend.

 

[SRXracer]

I backed the preload almost all the way off the center shock and finally got mine to turn somewhat acceptable and hardpack. Loose packed powder is a different story. Try pulling the strap up a hole, and back the preload of the center shock way off - like with the skid lifted off the ground, it should just be enough to put pressure on the spring.

 

[saleen347]

I backed the shock preload all the way off till spring would rattle a little. Then tightened about 2 threads. Set torsions to #2. I'll try that first, if I still can't get it to turn at a good pace, i'll try the limiter. Don't want to loose the shock travel as I like to hit the moguls but I need to get it to turn and not feel like it's going to roll.

 

[wileya]

I backed the shock preload all the way off till spring would rattle a little. Then tightened about 2 threads. Set torsions to #2. I'll try that first, if I still can't get it to turn at a good pace, i'll try the limiter. Don't want to loose the shock travel as I like to hit the moguls but I need to get it to turn and not feel like it's going to roll.

report back. I'm testing mine out to and am interested to know how yours works now.

 

[rebmo]

On my first ride on my 15 r-tx-dx I was really surprised how much push the sled had and how tippy and jumpy it was when trying to turn in lightly packed snow. I weight 190 and 6'-1" and ride farm field trails, a few ditches, and woods twisties. The trails are usually pretty well between groomed to packed. Sometimes it's drift and loose blown snow. I realize you need to tweak the setup for your use but I can't imagine this setup being suitable for anyone except straight line wheelie draggers. My dealer said it's set up neutral and that I should take it on the trails and they will dial it in for my preference. I don't know if the setup from factory is "neutral" for whatever an average trail rider might be, but I suspect not.

I read the AC setup guide posted earlier in this thread and there are suggested setups for "trail". This sled was nowhere close. I would think since it's a "trail" sled, it would be somewhat set up for ahh trails maybe. I wouldn't think most buyers were interested in just pulling wheelies and running straight lines (which the sled did great with the stock setting)but that was it. Forget turning, until the sled gets down to about 5mph. HUGE push. And I did try several turning techniques including hugging the tank and staying forward.

So anyway enough complaining and what do I know anyway. I cinched up the limit straps one hole (now 2nd from the end)instead of first hole, increased the rear torsion spring setting by one setting, and moved the transfer blocks from 1 to 3. I'll see if this setting change allows me to start actually turning (and with some stability) when I hit the apex of a turn and throttle up. More pressure on the skis and less to the skid should help.

Unfortunately like most of us, the little snow we had snow is pretty much gone and I won't get to try this setup. We are going up to Hayward, WI in a few days so I'll get to try it out and dial it in on some trails with some decent snow on them. I can possibly go another hole with the strap, and 1 more position on the rear spring setting, and possibly backing off the front skid shock spring pressure. Luckily we'll be at a house in Hayward so I can try different suspension settings one step at a time and see if I can get the "stock" sled handling.

I'll get it as good as I can for conditions I ride in (see description above) and I'll let you know in a couple weeks how much success I had. I'll consider mods once I see how well I can dial in the stock setup. I also realize the motor needs some break-in time too. Hope to get the break-in miles done in Hayward. I look forward to seeing what works for the rest of you.

 

[saleen347]

Road in some low snow conditions yesterday. Had torsion on 2 and only 2 threads of preload. Definitely helped, I'll report more when I can get into some better snow.

 

[sxr70001]

On my first ride on my 15 r-tx-dx I was really surprised how much push the sled had and how tippy and jumpy it was when trying to turn in lightly packed snow. I weight 190 and 6'-1" and ride farm field trails, a few ditches, and woods twisties. The trails are usually pretty well between groomed to packed. Sometimes it's drift and loose blown snow. I realize you need to tweak the setup for your use but I can't imagine this setup being suitable for anyone except straight line wheelie draggers. My dealer said it's set up neutral and that I should take it on the trails and they will dial it in for my preference. I don't know if the setup from factory is "neutral" for whatever an average trail rider might be, but I suspect not.

I read the AC setup guide posted earlier in this thread and there are suggested setups for "trail". This sled was nowhere close. I would think since it's a "trail" sled, it would be somewhat set up for ahh trails maybe. I wouldn't think most buyers were interested in just pulling wheelies and running straight lines (which the sled did great with the stock setting)but that was it. Forget turning, until the sled gets down to about 5mph. HUGE push. And I did try several turning techniques including hugging the tank and staying forward.

So anyway enough complaining and what do I know anyway. I cinched up the limit straps one hole (now 2nd from the end)instead of first hole, increased the rear torsion spring setting by one setting, and moved the transfer blocks from 1 to 3. I'll see if this setting change allows me to start actually turning (and with some stability) when I hit the apex of a turn and throttle up. More pressure on the skis and less to the skid should help.

Unfortunately like most of us, the little snow we had snow is pretty much gone and I won't get to try this setup. We are going up to Hayward, WI in a few days so I'll get to try it out and dial it in on some trails with some decent snow on them. I can possibly go another hole with the strap, and 1 more position on the rear spring setting, and possibly backing off the front skid shock spring pressure. Luckily we'll be at a house in Hayward so I can try different suspension settings one step at a time and see if I can get the "stock" sled handling.

I'll get it as good as I can for conditions I ride in (see description above) and I'll let you know in a couple weeks how much success I had. I'll consider mods once I see how well I can dial in the stock setup. I also realize the motor needs some break-in time too. Hope to get the break-in miles done in Hayward. I look forward to seeing what works for the rest of you.

Rebmo,
Like you I came off a SXR before I got my Viper last year. The first few times I rode my Viper it felt almost unrideable, the riding style is very different. You have to use your body weight a lot more and the touchy throttle and crappy stock carbides didn't help much either. Every time I came into a corner I felt like I was on a rocking horse, if I let off the throttle the sled would pitch forward and put all the weight on the skis, if I gave it any throttle it would lean back and push through the corner.

The best thing you can do is get some good carbides, take most of the preload off your front track shock and pull limiters down one hole. And ride a lot more. Believe me you will get a lot more comfortable with it.

Also some better clutching will help with the throttle smoothness as well.

This season I am riding the crap out of that Viper.

Good luck!

 

[wileya]

I got mine pretty much spot on yesterday after probably 6 hours of messing with my suspension. I think the first thing you have to do is dial in your front shocks to where you think they feel the best.my front shock on the suspension was set so I could turn the spring with a bit of force. I had already pulled my limiter in one hole before I did that and I have left it that way. Didn't think my sled was planted enough so i put my coupling blocks on 3. That had me closer. Then put my rear springs on the #2 setting. Finally it took me 2 1/2 hrs of doing small adjustments to my rear front shock spring to find the sweet spot. As stated earlier there is very little adjustment between lift/push and lots of ski pressure. It all takes time.

 

[saleen347]

Alright guys, I got this thing on rails now. Rode about 125 miles today on Tug Hill. All sorts of different trails, flat and smooth, whooped, low snow, good snow. Front shocks set to 70psi. Rear shock set with 2 threads of preload. Transfer blocks on 2. Torsion set on 2. Keep in mind I have C&A Razors with 6" shapers. I ride fast and this thing works awesome. I've had almost every XRS since 2007 and this is by far my favorite sled ever. The procross chassis is so good. Just to make sure, I traded for a few miles with my buddy who has a 2013 XRS (My favorite sled before this) and the Viper is hands down the winner for me. Corners perfect, takes the big moguls effortlessly and the motor and clutch are fantastic. I'm a believer. Thanks to everyone for your help.

 

[saleen347]

Also I never touched the limiter so I have full suspension travel.

 

[meklke]

Its not going to turn with the couplers on 1. Not going to happen. Use 2 .When you are turning are your knees up against the cowl? How much sag do you have? At 250 even as stiff as suspension is you may have to go up to med or high on rear torsions. This will help the slow stock rear shock rebound. It will not make it much harsher riding because what you feel most is the crappy shock valving. Lastly run 60PSI max in front shocks with them adjusted off the ground. Try this. It will work without sucking in your limiter and losing center shock travel which you need all of. If it still pushes try tapping the brake a bit while staying with steady throttle.

Regarding the couplers is 1 the shortest or the tallest?

 

[saleen347]

1 is the lowest setting.

 

[RTX]

Alright guys, I got this thing on rails now. Rode about 125 miles today on Tug Hill. All sorts of different trails, flat and smooth, whooped, low snow, good snow. Front shocks set to 70psi. Rear shock set with 2 threads of preload. Transfer blocks on 2. Torsion set on 2. Keep in mind I have C&A Razors with 6" shapers. I ride fast and this thing works awesome. I've had almost every XRS since 2007 and this is by far my favorite sled ever. The procross chassis is so good. Just to make sure, I traded for a few miles with my buddy who has a 2013 XRS (My favorite sled before this) and the Viper is hands down the winner for me. Corners perfect, takes the big moguls effortlessly and the motor and clutch are fantastic. I'm a believer. Thanks to everyone for your help.

I have the same model sled as you and i plan to try this set up next weekend.
Currently, My front shocks are set at 60. I installed simmons with dual 4" shaper bars. 135 studs 3 per row. Pulled up the limiter strap 1 hole.
Set coupling blocks on 2 and torsion springs on softest setting. I never adjusted the shock.
Not happy with how it is handeling. I have very heavy steering compared to stock set up with stock skis and it has no consistency. In any kind of loose snow it pushes something awful.
On hardpack it is a mixed bag, sometimes it is pushing, othertimes it is grabbing so hard it wants to flip me off. I really loved the simmons on my apex but they are not working for me on this sled, yet.
Gonna give them 1 more try with your set up listed above.
If i cant make them work then i will give my pilot 6.9 skis a try next. If that dont work i have usi tripple threats and the stock skis to fall back on.

2 questions,
Are you studded and if yes how many?
When you say you set the shock with 2 threads of preload, this it with the track elevated and the spring adjuster backed off till the spring has no tension/totally free, then turn the spring adjuster 2 complete revolutions and lock it there. Correct?