Center shock spring handling upgrade

[RTX]

Oh one last question, is it possible to sneak the shock in and out of the track without pulling the skid?

Yes.
I changed out the spring on my front shock without removing the skid.
It can be a little bit of a fight, But can be done

 

[nytrorider28]

Oh one last question, is it possible to sneak the shock in and out of the track without pulling the skid?

Yes, coming out is pretty easy. Going back in it helps to have an extra set of hands to line things up. Also, I myself always take a quick picture with my phone before I disassemble things. Easy reference sense I think about everybody has a camera on our phones...


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[rebmo]

I found a used one (1704-736) on Ebay lister said "from a 2012 F1100 pro cross chassis. est. 700mi replaced for custom suspension. This spring was also standard on 2013 models." $20 so ordered it to try.

 

[rebmo]

Would someone be so kind to list the major steps for removing and replacing the spring without removing the skid. I need to do this when I get up to the U.P. (inside garage). I have a rear lift stand that I will use. I have not pulled sled shocks or springs so want to mentally think it through. How and at what point of installation do you set the new spring "preload" to .05" to .10" as recommended (before attaching strap or after)?

Thanks for any help.

 

[saskieXTX]

So it's this the dual rate spring, and will it be good in an XTX?

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[Studroes144]

Would someone be so kind to list the major steps for removing and replacing the spring without removing the skid. I need to do this when I get up to the U.P. (inside garage). I have a rear lift stand that I will use. I have not pulled sled shocks or springs so want to mentally think it through. How and at what point of installation do you set the new spring "preload" to .05" to .10" as recommended (before attaching strap or after)?

Thanks for any help.

With track off the ground, loosen the adjuster on the front skid shock, just loosen the adjuster up all the way so you know it's loose enough. After that, loosen and remove the top bolt holding the shock on, just the top, bottom shaft stays in. Once you take the nut of the upper bolt you can pull down on the shock to release some pressure while you pull the bolt out. Next step takes some more muscle, you need to pull down and compress the shock maybe a half inch or so so that you can push the top of the shock towards the front of the sled. Once you do that you will be able to remove the rubber sleeve, the spring retainer and the spring by simply pulling it off the top of the shock. Put new spring on, retainer and then rubber sleeve. Make sure not to shake it hard or anything like that so that the retainer stays in place, and remember to leave the adjusters full loose so that there's no tension on the spring. Muscle the top of the shock back in line with the upper mount. Once you're ready to put the main bolt back in a screw driver will come in handy. You'll be able to pry down on the top of the shock while keeping forward pressure on the shock to get the holes lined up and put the bolt in. An extra hand does help but can be done by yourself. Once your bolt is in and nut on and tightened you can now tighten up the adjusters on the bottom to put pressure on the spring.

 

[rebmo]

With track off the ground, loosen the adjuster on the front skid shock, just loosen the adjuster up all the way so you know it's loose enough. After that, loosen and remove the top bolt holding the shock on, just the top, bottom shaft stays in. Once you take the nut of the upper bolt you can pull down on the shock to release some pressure while you pull the bolt out. Next step takes some more muscle, you need to pull down and compress the shock maybe a half inch or so so that you can push the top of the shock towards the front of the sled. Once you do that you will be able to remove the rubber sleeve, the spring retainer and the spring by simply pulling it off the top of the shock. Put new spring on, retainer and then rubber sleeve. Make sure not to shake it hard or anything like that so that the retainer stays in place, and remember to leave the adjusters full loose so that there's no tension on the spring. Muscle the top of the shock back in line with the upper mount. Once you're ready to put the main bolt back in a screw driver will come in handy. You'll be able to pry down on the top of the shock while keeping forward pressure on the shock to get the holes lined up and put the bolt in. An extra hand does help but can be done by yourself. Once your bolt is in and nut on and tightened you can now tighten up the adjusters on the bottom to put pressure on the spring.

Awesome! Thanks Studroes144, doesn't sound too bad and I have my son to help muscle it back in. The spring should come sometime mid-late next week so I may give it a shot at home next weekend. I'll post back when I get it installed, and also post when I get it on the trails. Hoping to take some of the b-buster action out on the washboards.

 

[Studroes144]

Awesome! Thanks Studroes144, doesn't sound too bad and I have my son to help muscle it back in. The spring should come sometime mid-late next week so I may give it a shot at home next weekend. I'll post back when I get it installed, and also post when I get it on the trails. Hoping to take some of the b-buster action out on the washboards.

No problem, just recently swapped the spring out on mine. Have had center shock out a couple times before but this was the first time i did just a spring swap with leaving the shock bolted in. By myself all said and done only took maybe 15 minutes. No need to over think it, some muscle and an extra set of hands and it can be done very easily.

 

[drumz11]

Studroes post is right on. Also if you want to use a little less muscle, you can release the limiter straps by just removing the nut and bolt on each one on the top of the front arm.

 

[trailtamer]

I ordered this spring from Country Cat, had it at my house in a few days (free shipping to boot). Waiting on my softer Torsion Springs to get here before installing. My shocks are already revalved (Thanks to Cannondale). Glad to here the good results from this mod. I'm hoping for a "plusher ride" and better weight transfer to the track.

 

[0llll0]

A while back I read an interesting article at Arctic Insider about changes made to the 2016 model skids.:

http://www.arcticinsider.com/Article/Handling-Upgrade-Convert-your-ProCross-Skidframe-to-2016-Specs

I have the skid out to revalve the shocks and figured I would revisit this. I asked Mike at Carver Performance about the spring and he said that as soon as that article hit they were on BO for a long time and that everyone seems to rave about them.


I looked up my sled (RR skid) as a Cat (ZR 7000 RR) and it showed # 2704-228 as the factory spring. For 2016 MY it showed 2704-755 so I decided to order one to try. My spring already looks like the replacement, but it is different in that the lower rate coils have a greater spacing allowing for more travel at the lower rate. The difference is somewhat subtle, but you can clearly see that each of the "soft" coils has a significantly larger gap. I hope to get the skid back in today and find some time to hit the trails ASAP!

View attachment 125300

So just to clarify, you have now installed the 1704-736 spring or am I misunderstanding?

 

[Black7]

Anybody running the dual rate front spring in an XTX skid? I'm 225 lbs (and dropping).

 

[TD Max]

So just to clarify, you have now installed the 1704-736 spring or am I misunderstanding?

My sled is LE model with the RR skid and clicker reservoir shocks so it takes a different spring. I believe the only difference is the diameter.

From my original post: "I looked up my sled (RR skid) as a Cat (ZR 7000 RR) and it showed # 2704-228 as the factory spring. For 2016 MY it showed 2704-755"

So far I am liking it. It used to be if I hit a quick drift/up bump it would kick me off the seat like the suspension refused to compress. Much better now. I also had my shock valving tweaked just a bit more firm. I really liked how things were going, but still dialing in the clickers.

 

[rebmo]

My (1704-736) Spring showed up today. Looks like new and for $20 free shipping (ebay) it's worth a shot IMO, I can always switch back. I'll try to get it installed on Saturday. Trouble is there's no snow around here and it's going to be in the 40s for the next 5 days and high 30s after that for days. So my next chance to give it a try will be Feb 10-13 trip to U.P.. I be sure to report on how it works as I dial it in.
Thanks again for the removal install instructions.

 

[ViperRob]

Ordered the 160lb spring to put in my STX-DX 141. What hole locations are you putting the suspension in and limter strap setting?