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Center shock spring handling upgrade

cannondale27 said:
If not you know you are close if you can rock the sled back and forth front to back with same effort on bars. It should pivot at your feet.
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I have not been able to ride it since I swapped the spring. I did notice after the swap that I could bounce it and it had a much softer feel and more give for an inch or so. Thanks for the initial setup hint, I have about 4 threads showing now and will try the rocking to see if I can get the pivot effort evened out.
 

I'm going to put mine back to where my stock one was set. I think it will be a fuzz to much preload, but it's easier to loosen on the trail than tighten. I figure if I start on one end of the spectrum, I know what way I have to go to get it right. If I start in the middle, there is a 50/50 chance to get it right.
 
Got out on my X-TX with the 160# spring set where I had the OEM spring (11 threads showing). Wound up backing it off two turns and it rode real nice, and steered pretty good with the Tuner II's on still. At this point, I think that I can live with the Tuners for the season, save my pennies and work on a set of Curves for next season. I put a set of Curves XS on the Wife's S-TX the other night...now the sled works for her, a little darty, but I'll work on the pre-load and front shock settings.
 
Tried my RTX-DX out today with the 90-250 lbs. dual rate front track shock spring. so much nicer ride. Started out with 11 threads showing under the spanner collars. Kept loosening them until I got good ski pressure. Got rid of all the pushing in corners, got rid of the darting. The more I loosened them, the better it got. I'm at around 4 threads showing. Very little preload. Ride is very plush. Absorbs the chatter bumps so nicely.

FYI- I am running tortion spring on 2, and I carry Rotax 1.75 gallon of gas on back. Tuner skis with 6 " shapers on both inside and outside.
 
Rodney said:
Just put mine in last night!! I just don't know where to set hard or soft?
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start middle spring set up on soft for more ski pressure and work your up to get your sterring effort in your confort zone while still having good ski pressure for railing corners
 
I think it's easier to start with the preload set a little tight. I had mine with eleven threads showing. Left the collars loose(finger tight)

Then I kept loosening them until I felt the handling was the best. I only have 3-4 threads showing under collars. It is much easier to loosen than tighten. It helps to pick sled up in the back just a fuzz. I like some ski pressure.
 
Rode 160 miles and the Spring is softer but still got pounded on the washboard trails. Gives a little but still extremely stiff when hitting mid size bumps. I suspect ill have to revalve the shocks to take advantage of the spring for comfortable trail riding.
 
I tried the baby wrench in the tool kit and could not back off the lock ring. The track was up in the air. Do you think it would be okay to use channel lock pliers or vice grips to loosen the ring?
 
Heckler56 said:
I tried the baby wrench in the tool kit and could not back off the lock ring. The track was up in the air. Do you think it would be okay to use channel lock pliers or vice grips to loosen the ring?
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Use a piece of aluminum and a hammer or if not worried about a few dings on locking nut use a big screwdriver and hammer. They can really be tight!
 
picasso said:
Anybody find a source for a REAL SPANNER WRENCH?
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Not needed. Once it is broke loose just use the one in tool kit to tighten it and you wont have anymore trouble. I have $50 Spanners but its just so confined in there you cant use any very well. When shock is out of sled they work very well but who wants to remove shock just to adjust preload. I also keep the threads and shafts of my shocks lubed after riding. Just a spray with WD40. Keeps everything nice and free.
 
Would this spring help my 2016 STX DX 137? The ride on my sled is terrible. The steering on my sled is excellent with the curve skis, I have the exact amount of tension on the front rear spring for handling, but if I hit any rough trail I have no plushness at all. It just bottoms out after a while and stays bottomed out.

When I stop and get off the sled the rear doesn't even return to it's proper height. I have to lift it up.
After a cool down period the rear goes back to normal until I hit rough trail again. It's as if the rear springs warm up and just stop working. I have tried stiffer rear torsion springs but there is zero bounce with those and too stiff.

I know the shocks suck in my skid but this isn't a shock issue, I think.. I have had the rear shock replaced under warranty but it did not help.

I do have a video of the trailside effect of rough trail to the rear of my sled. But there is a lot of angry words used so I'm afraid to post it here.

I am also a heavier guy 285 lbs with gear

Any thoughts? I am sick of watching my buddies on their Pro S sleds not even moving on the rough trails and I have to stand up the entire ride.
 
Wamp12000 said:
Would this spring help my 2016 STX DX 137? The ride on my sled is terrible. The steering on my sled is excellent with the curve skis, I have the exact amount of tension on the front rear spring for handling, but if I hit any rough trail I have no plushness at all. It just bottoms out after a while and stays bottomed out.

When I stop and get off the sled the rear doesn't even return to it's proper height. I have to lift it up.
After a cool down period the rear goes back to normal until I hit rough trail again. It's as if the rear springs warm up and just stop working. I have tried stiffer rear torsion springs but there is zero bounce with those and too stiff.

I know the shocks suck in my skid but this isn't a shock issue, I think.. I have had the rear shock replaced under warranty but it did not help.

I do have a video of the trailside effect of rough trail to the rear of my sled. But there is a lot of angry words used so I'm afraid to post it here.

I am also a heavier guy 285 lbs with gear

Any thoughts? I am sick of watching my buddies on their Pro S sleds not even moving on the rough trails and I have to stand up the entire ride.
Click to expand...
I haven't researched part numbers for the DX's but I will bet they made the decision to use the same softer springs the SnoPro and SE's got in 16. This worked well for most with SE's or SnoPros but in the DX's case the shocks were already too soft side on the 14's and 15's. Sounds like the springs and maybe even the valving went too far soft for 16's. Have you tried with Torsions on full stiff? Is rebound then too fast. I have noticed a big increase in complaints from DX owners and way less from SE owners 16 and 17. Will spec these out. I have a stock DX set from 14 to spec valving. Springs are easy to check with parts fiche.
 
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