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Chaincase Backlash

CTGT2005

Veteran
Joined
Sep 22, 2018
Messages
34
Age
37
Location
SNH
Country
USA
Snowmobile
18 Sidewinder LTX SE
03 ZR900
I'm in the process of adjusting my chain case for the first time at 500mi. I went finger tight without using any tools and then backed out one and a half turns. When I tightened down the jam nut it did spin the bolt in a little bit but only about half of a turn in because I was doing it with the muffler still attached and could not get two wrenches on it. So I'm about 1 turn out from finger tight at the moment.

I also just did the chain adjustment on a Ski-Doo Gen 4 and comparing the two after making the chain adjustments, The Sidewinder has a ton more slop in the secondary back and forth. Where the Ski Doo has absolutely no play The Sidewinder is much looser. I've attached a video link below showing how it is now. is this completely normal after being adjusted properly? Want to make sure the threads didn't have crap in them causing a bad setting.

 

That clutch play is like mine. Haven’t had a problem. We run our chains a bit tighter than spec for the sled recommendation and no issues. Same for the track. On the tight side. Pretty much stock sled.
 
There has to be some play. Hard to imagine no play....that would mean the chain is tight, driven spline is perfect, Jackshaft spline and outer gear, lower gear and axle splines, and cogs perfect....know what I mean?
. Since doos have rer, there's no mechanical reverse like the sw.
All my other yamahas...they all have play as you have shown, and chains and cases are perfect after many thousands of miles. In fact, I have to turn the driven a fair amount on my apex before the track sprockets turn. No big deal. Need some play for reverse to engage anyway.
 
That clutch play is like mine. Haven’t had a problem. We run our chains a bit tighter than spec for the sled recommendation and no issues. Same for the track. On the tight side. Pretty much stock sled.

Thanks guys that's reassuring. I'll leave it like this and it'll probably continue to stretch for this season given its mileage.

That leads me to a follow-up question, the spec for a 137 track is 2 in of deflection at 25 lbs. I have a 25 lb dead weight which should be the same as a spring scale. So using the 25 lb weight do you recommend I'm somewhere in the range of 1.6 to 1.7 inches of deflection?
 
Thanks guys that's reassuring. I'll leave it like this and it'll probably continue to stretch for this season given its mileage.

That leads me to a follow-up question, the spec for a 137 track is 2 in of deflection at 25 lbs. I have a 25 lb dead weight which should be the same as a spring scale. So using the 25 lb weight do you recommend I'm somewhere in the range of 1.6 to 1.7 inches of deflection?
That’s plenty. 1 inch is plenty.
 
That’s plenty. 1 inch is plenty.

Just confirming that's one inch with 25 lb of weight. I set it to 1.5"-1.6" gap with 25 lb weight hanging and it still seems like its wicked tight up in the front. I would be afraid of hyfax wear in the front of the skid any tighter.
 
Your good. It will be tight up in front on the bends. When you sit on sled it’s going to loosen track some. Unless your set up SUPER STIFF. The suspension should give some and in turn gives some more room for track tension. I’m not saying run it like a banjo string. But I like to be a little tighter then what the book states. I used to think looser was better but you have to realize when you sit on sled the suspension will give some tension back.
 
1-1.5 is fine

Sounds good. I've just heard bad things about the tri hub and wouldn't want to put more strain on that or any of the idler wheels unnecessarily. fortunately I put on the 4th wheel kit from the get-go so that should afford me little more protection.
 
Sounds good. I've just heard bad things about the tri hub and wouldn't want to put more strain on that or any of the idler wheels unnecessarily. fortunately I put on the 4th wheel kit from the get-go so that should afford me little more protection.
Your good. Four wheel kit helps. Besides tighter is faster!
 
Thanks guys that's reassuring. I'll leave it like this and it'll probably continue to stretch for this season given its mileage.

That leads me to a follow-up question, the spec for a 137 track is 2 in of deflection at 25 lbs. I have a 25 lb dead weight which should be the same as a spring scale. So using the 25 lb weight do you recommend I'm somewhere in the range of 1.6 to 1.7 inches of deflection?
This video shows recommended track tension from Precision EFI.
 
My service manual says 20lbs not 25lbs. So if you adjusted with 25 you should be nice and tight!
 
I used the Arctic cat 137 spec probably.

Screenshot_20191230-162603.png
 


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