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Chaincase parts


Thanks for the replies, Ronnies got me close. I am curious on this, as I haven't torn it completely down, however what actually fails? Does the grommet rip and allow it to drip? I am a few weeks out on the pipe, however I inadvertently took it down alot more than needed(haven't pulled the cover of the chaincase yet). Planned to wait until the parts showed up. However since it is 2 weeks out, I am just debating to fill it up with chain oil and just run it. One thing I don't get is would there be a reason I need the fuel tank off to fix this? I think I misunderstood the folks pulling their tanks to work on the reverse units and pulled my tanks as well.
 
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My bad. I am wrong. I was looking to see if it was a phazer you were working on when I posted. Realized you were phazer section so posted before thinking. :hide:
 
If it's just a drip out of dipstick, heck id run it!! Keep an eye on it. If gaskets leaking that may be a different beast to keep an eye on.
 
It isn't dripping out of the dipstick, it appears to be where the reverse meets the chaincase, and I am hoping the longer pipe and grommet fix the issue. I really don't mind the running it with the drip, just want to make sure that it is easily fixed by just pulling the chaincase cover and chain.
 
As far as what fails in the system, I wouldn't say anything actually fails as much as there was a less-than-ideal design. The original pipe and grommet were too short and didn't always make it far enough into the reverse gearbox to ensure the chaincase oil makes it in there to lubricate everything. Additionally, if the pipe and grommet don't fit into the receiving hole in the gearbox, then the gearbox could have rotated slightly during installation. This would prevent the pipe and grommet from ever aligning/fitting the receiving hole. When installing the new pipe, I would suggest loosening the 6 bolts (well, one of them will be removed as it holds the pipe in) and visually making sure the hole in the gearbox is lined up with the hole the pipe/grommet assembly fits into. Once you have verified that it is aligned, I would install the pipe/grommet and the bolt that holds it in, then torque down the remaining 5 bolts. That way if there was an alignment issue from the factory, you will have hopefully eliminated it. Good luck!
 
Thanks, one of the questions I have is does the tank need to be removed for this(especially accessing the 5 bolts if the oil hole does not line up? Or can I access all of this from the outside of the unit? bascially removing the battery and chain case cover?
 
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No, neither the fuel nor oil tank need to be removed. The reverse gearbox mounts on a circular boss on the inside of the right bulkhead/sideplate. If the alignment is off & you need to loosen the bolts, you could then rotate the gearbox slightly to line up the holes, but you should be able to do this without having to remove the fuel tank again.

To clarify my earlier post, the first thing I would do when replacing the pipe/grommet would be to look into the hole they mount in & see if you notice any misalignment. If it looks like the hole in the bulkhead/sideplate and the hole that goes into the reverse gearbox are pretty much inline, then there would be no need to loosen the other 5 bolts. Even if there is a little mismatch between the two, I wouldn't worry about it too much, as the rubber of the longer grommet should be able to conform to both holes and create a good seal.

Only if the alignment were significantly off (enough to prevent installing the longer pipe and grommet) would I remove the other 5 bolts and try to rotate the gearbox.
 
Snowmixer said:
No, neither the fuel nor oil tank need to be removed. The reverse gearbox mounts on a circular boss on the inside of the right bulkhead/sideplate. If the alignment is off & you need to loosen the bolts, you could then rotate the gearbox slightly to line up the holes, but you should be able to do this without having to remove the fuel tank again.

To clarify my earlier post, the first thing I would do when replacing the pipe/grommet would be to look into the hole they mount in & see if you notice any misalignment. If it looks like the hole in the bulkhead/sideplate and the hole that goes into the reverse gearbox are pretty much inline, then there would be no need to loosen the other 5 bolts. Even if there is a little mismatch between the two, I wouldn't worry about it too much, as the rubber of the longer grommet should be able to conform to both holes and create a good seal.

Only if the alignment were significantly off (enough to prevent installing the longer pipe and grommet) would I remove the other 5 bolts and try to rotate the gearbox.
Click to expand...


Thank you very much for the clarification. My dilemma now is we are getting dumped on and I am probably 2 weeks away from getting my parts. So I am thinking of just buttoning everything back up and putting oil back in(I drained it) and running it. We don't travel very far and just ride from our house.
 
That sounds like a good plan. At least when the parts come in it will still be somewhat fresh in your mind, and the entire disassembly/reassembly process will hopefully go much faster so you can get back out to the snow! Good luck!
 
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