Check the backside of your sidewinder clutch

[Fords4life]

Went to my local bearing supply house we went thru some of his bearings on hand, china, japan, and i settled on the skf made in america!! Cost me about 40 bucks a piece, installed one in my cat 9000 and one in my sidewinder, night and day diffrence in clutch chatter for me, wrked well so far, all last season and one trip this season. Oh ya he had these in stock on shelf so they should be common.

Ps the reason i went looking was because of all the side to side slop in the oem bearing, i wanted a " tighter" bearing, no more side slop!

 

[Fords4life]

Please post manufacturer and part number

Skf explorer #6307 2rsjem

 

[KnappAttack]

I tried a different tighter bearing that my pal lakercr had sent me with zero improvement to the clutch rattle on the Yamaha Primary. It was for sure a tighter bearing and I had high hopes as his was so quiet, but lakercr had tried this tighter bearing along with a 1050 shaft and I suspect his was quiet because of the shaft being a bit heavier with the 1050 reluctor wheel on it or the spline fit was perhaps tighter, not sure the exact reason his was quiet and mine was not other than the shaft.

I was however able to rid myself of the clutch rattle by installing a TAPP primary this last week. Wow what a difference that was! Now I just need some snow to dial it in...

 

[Fords4life]

All i can respond with is it has made a diffrence for me, cost of the bearing a little of your time to find out, or 1600.00 plus dollors for a tapp clutch. I have a tapp also on my riot 9000 i built, had the factory team explode on me early 2020, cat replaced it and fixed all the damadge it caused, but the replacement only made it 400 miles before it started cracking also. So on with the tapp! Very nice clutch but a bit much dollor wise for most people to stomach after a large investment in there pride and joy.

 

[stevewithOCD]

I tried a different tighter bearing that my pal lakercr had sent me with zero improvement to the clutch rattle on the Yamaha Primary. It was for sure a tighter bearing and I had high hopes as his was so quiet, but lakercr had tried this tighter bearing along with a 1050 shaft and I suspect his was quiet because of the shaft being a bit heavier with the 1050 reluctor wheel on it or the spline fit was perhaps tighter, not sure the exact reason his was quiet and mine was not other than the shaft.

I was however able to rid myself of the clutch rattle by installing a TAPP primary this last week. Wow what a difference that was! Now I just need some snow to dial it in...

The TAPP is quieter, but you can still hear the rattle showing it's the spline from the get-go so all the fixes people have claimed over the years are just Bogus.
MIKE, you are a 4th generation TY owner of that TAPP. It still has barely 1000 miles on it.
Winterwolf, Me, Fleecer now Knapp. Will you run the Pro4 secondary with it?

 

[STAIN]

I was however able to rid myself of the clutch rattle by installing a TAPP primary this last week. Wow what a difference that was! Now I just need some snow to dial it in...

Keep us posted on what you find out/ your likes and dislikes on that TAPP. I have one on the shelf with no sled to put it on.

 

[sideshowBob]

I have had the Hurricane stub shaft on my SW going on three seasons now...it made a huge difference in the clutch rattle noise.
Here is another interesting thing I have found.
I have been using OSP magnetic weights in my primary but I have just changed my clutching setup and gone to Dalton DTYA-2 weights in the primary and the clutch rattle is more noticeable now, but still not bad.
The main reason the OSP weights kept the clutch rattle down a little is because, with a full load of magnets, they stick to the rollers at idle and up to engagement.

 

[STAIN]

The main reason the OSP weights kept the clutch rattle down a little is because, with a full load of magnets, they stick to the rollers at idle and up to engagement.

does that cause any premature flat spotting on the roller or weight?

 

[KnappAttack]

The TAPP is quieter, but you can still hear the rattle showing it's the spline from the get-go so all the fixes people have claimed over the years are just Bogus.
MIKE, you are a 4th generation TY owner of that TAPP. It still has barely 1000 miles on it.
Winterwolf, Me, Fleecer now Knapp. Will you run the Pro4 secondary with it?

I happy to give the TAPP a try, but I have no plan to run the Pro-4. I will probably put it in the classifieds soon. Its a pretty piece.

I have had the Hurricane stub shaft on my SW going on three seasons now...it made a huge difference in the clutch rattle noise.
Here is another interesting thing I have found.
I have been using OSP magnetic weights in my primary but I have just changed my clutching setup and gone to Dalton DTYA-2 weights in the primary and the clutch rattle is more noticeable now, but still not bad.
The main reason the OSP weights kept the clutch rattle down a little is because, with a full load of magnets, they stick to the rollers at idle and up to engagement.

The weights push on the rollers at idle from centrifugal force alone. I believe the noise is from the tower buttons and the wear or slop between the towers along with the rollers and weights rattling around along with the spline slop thrown in. It all adds up together. Doesn't seem to be an issue at all however. They run for tens of thousands of miles rattling away. Its just annoying is all.

 

[sideshowBob]

does that cause any premature flat spotting on the roller or weight?

No I have not had any roller issues with the OSP weights causing flat spots.
I have run TPI rollers right from zero miles on my sled
IMO...the weights being stuck to the rollers at pre engagement is just that many less items to rattle around.
Its definitely noticeable.

 

[REDLINE 1]

I happy to give the TAPP a try, but I have no plan to run the Pro-4. I will probably put it in the classifieds soon. Its a pretty piece.



The weights push on the rollers at idle from centrifugal force alone. I believe the noise is from the tower buttons and the wear or slop between the towers along with the rollers and weights rattling around along with the spline slop thrown in. It all adds up together. Doesn't seem to be an issue at all however. They run for tens of thousands of miles rattling away. Its just annoying is all.

Ya I have a Pro4 primary and I get the rattle at idle also

 

[SideHogger]

I tried a different tighter bearing that my pal lakercr had sent me with zero improvement to the clutch rattle on the Yamaha Primary. It was for sure a tighter bearing and I had high hopes as his was so quiet, but lakercr had tried this tighter bearing along with a 1050 shaft and I suspect his was quiet because of the shaft being a bit heavier with the 1050 reluctor wheel on it or the spline fit was perhaps tighter, not sure the exact reason his was quiet and mine was not other than the shaft.

I was however able to rid myself of the clutch rattle by installing a TAPP primary this last week. Wow what a difference that was! Now I just need some snow to dial it in...

Oh nooooo…..no more Apex primary!!!!!! And I had my Apex primary all figured out because of you!!!!!

 

[yamamarc]

I have had the Hurricane stub shaft on my SW going on three seasons now...it made a huge difference in the clutch rattle noise.
Here is another interesting thing I have found.
I have been using OSP magnetic weights in my primary but I have just changed my clutching setup and gone to Dalton DTYA-2 weights in the primary and the clutch rattle is more noticeable now, but still not bad.
The main reason the OSP weights kept the clutch rattle down a little is because, with a full load of magnets, they stick to the rollers at idle and up to engagement.

Makes sense my stm has set screws in the sheave to untuck the weights. I have them set just snug on the rollers and it got rid of the rattling from the weights bouncing g off the rollers

 

[KnappAttack]

Oh nooooo…..no more Apex primary!!!!!! And I had my Apex primary all figured out because of you!!!!!

The old RX-1 and Apex primary work awesome! I just like to try everything at least once for myself to see what is what and see if I can see any gains anywhere. It's kinda what I do and enjoy. TEST, TEST, TEST.

 

[KnappAttack]

Makes sense my stm has set screws in the sheave to untuck the weights. I have them set just snug on the rollers and it got rid of the rattling from the weights bouncing g off the rollers

The set screws control engagement. The more they are screwed into the weights, the lower the engagement will be. unscrewing them towards the belt and the engagement goes up.

If the sled is running, the weights are centrifugally forced into the rollers all the time. The only time they will not be in contact with the roller is when the sled is shut off. They don't "bounce" on the rollers when running. Centrifugal force will keep them in contact at all times with the roller...