closing the holes

[yzf1999]

If I closed the two holes in the tunnel with 1/16 aluminum plate..will silicone hold. I don't want to rivet them because I don't want to void the warranty. If I silicone them and I have a problem I can pry them off and no one will be the wiser. What do you think.

 

[pat the rat]

doubt it,mine are riveted and good thing they are,there is still ice build up around the guards that you have to knock it off once in a while,if you only silicone them,imo they will come off

 

[no4smoke]

sounds like morality isnt something you have to fight with much 1999! why dont you just not worry about the warranty and do the mods you want?

 

[Phazed-Coug]

I'd make the rear plate large enough to be able to use the
factory(tool box) holes, then silicone the rest.

 

[EsonPZ]

I will make a new plate this fal, and rivet it all the way around. I think it is the only way it wil hold up.

 

[zook]

I made mine long enough to use the tool box holes and I used silicone and rivits. I only closed off the rear hole.

 

[yzf1999]

sounds like morality isnt something you have to fight with much 1999! why dont you just not worry about the warranty and do the mods you want?

I'm a very honest person..the holes in the tunnel shouldn't be there in the first place...I just don't want to get screwed on a motor warranty issue for something as trivial as closing the tunnel holes.

 

[Pat M]

Here is the link to how I closed my rear tunnel. http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=40108&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30 I made the aluminum piece just long enough to use the rear toolbox holes and then I drilled out the rivets that hold the tunnel together and slid it between there then re-riveted the tunnel again. I also closed up to 2 holes on the side by the rear bumper. Alot of snow comes in through those 2 holes also. Next is to close off the front tunnel and then put some heat tape on the exhaust pipe and manifold.

 

[Blue Giant]

Pat,

What is the benifit of the heat tape? I left the front hole open and only closed in the rear hole in the same fashion as you using the tool box bolts and 4 rivets, two in the middle, two at the front.

Paul

 

[ecopter]

I'm going to keep the rear hole open, however I'm going to add sides to it that mount up near the muffler. Braces will be added which attach to the muffler and will also act as the structure to mount the sides. These braces will be attached down low to the footwells inorder to radiate heat to the tunnel where any ice would normal build up.

This will still allow snow to cool the muffler and dissipate heat and the new sides added will not permit any snow to be thrown onto the running boards. Also, any snow that does make its way out will hopefully be melted by the transfer of heat from the muffler braces.

Jon

 

[Phazed-Coug]

once I swapped mufflers, I haven't noticed nearly as much buildup... although I didn't get to ride it much in dryer snow..
so I'll update next year.

 

[ecopter]

I finished with enclosing the muffler and pipe section just forward of the muffler in its own compartment. Just a bunch of channel aluminum, aluminum sheeting, and rivets galore made for a pretty decent deal. I also closed in the rear just forward of the storage pack.

I just didn't have a warm fuzzy about closing off the hole without any cooling from which the original designers had in mind. This way, there's no way snow will go anywhere other than back out through the hole from which it came.

Jon

 

[monker]

How do you guys like this for closing the tunnel off?

It's not my sled, but one of the guys I rode with. It seemed to work very well and I'll be doing it this fall. As for heat and cooling, riding on a warmer day we both overheated within minutes of eachother.

 

[Pat M]

Monker did you pull the picture? I don't see the attachment.

 

[monker]

still shows up for me.