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Project: DIY clutch side vents

justinator said:
For bottom moflows I cut the entire area out with cutoff wheel on a dremel as the area is so small it does not really weaken it when fully open. No problems this way on 4 sleds total. lower side panel can stay on for all of it. I just removed lower shock bolt so I could pivot it out of the way for better room. Air riveter fit in there just fine and so did drill. Added some holes in the precision belt guard to allow better airflow. Upper vents I used some hole saw bits and drilled some larger holes at bottom working my way to smaller sizes near the top. Panel is still strong in this area this way.
Click to expand...
Cut off wheel on a Dremel never even crossed my mind. Ty, Justin.
 

I just used hole saws
 

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I'm not going to vent my new 23 in any way now that we have the belt blowing issues fixed. I have sleds running around with no added venting front or back and they keep belts on them just as good as I did with all the added venting front and back. I'm not convinced that it does much. At one point I even added a fan to the belt and clutch and found it to be worthless as well.

The biggest help I found with belt life/blowing with big power was the old style RX-1 or Apex or TAPP primary, proper offset, and the XS825 Belts, but even with the old or TAPP primary and proper offset seems like any belt will hold up, so I don't think the XS belt is a must, nor was venting really needed. The factory venting seems more than adequate with the YamaCat now that I have a bunch of different machines running around having great belt life and success.

I had my 17 full of vents front and back from early on, I'll try my 23 without any venting at all.
 
Through all the personal experience everyone has shared on this forum we have all learned a lot since 2017. If I were to purchase a brand new SW there is no doubt I would approach some things differently especially if I kept my current sled for running the big power and used the new sled for a more trail ready sled with less inve$tment$ in items that are not absolutely necessary.
But the 240SS stock or perf muffler flash would be mandatory before I ever rode it!
 
Thanks for posting that up before I made swiss cheese out of everything.
Everything's going to be new to me this year and I'm trying to prepare for it instead of reacting to it.
In this case I'll make a bunch of changes during the start of the season. One of which I'll do is watch clutch & belt temps.
Running a bigger tune this year and going to do some Helix, spring changes.
Pri 140°
Belt 130°
Sec 90°
MS16sm good pull, just not held to the bar for a mile.
 
KnappAttack said:
I'm not going to vent my new 23 in any way now that we have the belt blowing issues fixed. I have sleds running around with no added venting front or back and they keep belts on them just as good as I did with all the added venting front and back. I'm not convinced that it does much. At one point I even added a fan to the belt and clutch and found it to be worthless as well.

The biggest help I found with belt life/blowing with big power was the old style RX-1 or Apex or TAPP primary, proper offset, and the XS825 Belts, but even with the old or TAPP primary and proper offset seems like any belt will hold up, so I don't think the XS belt is a must, nor was venting really needed. The factory venting seems more than adequate with the YamaCat now that I have a bunch of different machines running around having great belt life and success.

I had my 17 full of vents front and back from early on, I'll try my 23 without any venting at all.
Click to expand...

On that note, with Apex clutch, is the desired offset still 59mm? Thanks Mike
 
PowderFalcon said:
On that note, with Apex clutch, is the desired offset still 59mm? Thanks Mike
Click to expand...

No, with either Yamaha primary I was at 57.8 or something like that on my 17. I check it with the Hurricane bar after lining it up manually and verifying. I remember on my TAPP primary and stock secondary it was 59.2mm with the XS825 on the 17.
 
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