murph
Extreme
Not exactly sure how to describe this situation or noise that I am hearing.....here goes.
Installed Mtn Tamer and Powerclaw in the off season. Changed gearing to 18T top gear. Stock motor. Stock drivers. All nubs still on PC track. Found a broken reverse bolt and re-assembled without it.
First few rides of the season, thought I was bottoming out my suspension when I landed flat in the whoops and my zipties were at the bottom of my shocks when I would check in the garage.
Tightened up zipties and checked when riding--definitely not bottoming out.
Think what I was hearing was the track ratcheting when the suspension would compress and I would get back on the gas...the slack from airborne throttle chop, landing and compressing the suspension and then whacking the throttle back open.
Tightened the Powerclaw 162 to 1 1/4 inch at 22lbs. Went out yesterday in SUPER heavy snow cranked over in full throttle turns would hear a "clunk" didn't seem to affect rpm and wouldn't last like ratcheting. Just "clunk" and that was it. Being paranoid, I rolled the sled over on its side and tightened the adjusters one full turn each. Rode some more continued to hear an occasional "clunk"...decided to call it a day.
On the ride back heard another "clunk" and then a flapping sound. Slowed down cruised the last 1/2 mile back to the trailer and found that my belt had delaminated. All the top cogs were blown off. Wondering now if the clunking I was hearing was parts of the belt shearing off throughout the day.
My plan is to check the drivers and make sure they didn't spin on the shaft-- I'm assuming the centers will be deformed.
Will also recheck the the chain tension and make sure the clunk sound isn't the chain slack snapping tight
Any other suggestions? Am I hearing normal noises, track slap, etc and should just ignore?
What are others running 162 Powerclaws at for tension with Mtn Tamer Suspension? Should I ignore the occasional "clunk" on flat landings if it is not followed by additional "ratcheting"?
Installed Mtn Tamer and Powerclaw in the off season. Changed gearing to 18T top gear. Stock motor. Stock drivers. All nubs still on PC track. Found a broken reverse bolt and re-assembled without it.
First few rides of the season, thought I was bottoming out my suspension when I landed flat in the whoops and my zipties were at the bottom of my shocks when I would check in the garage.
Tightened up zipties and checked when riding--definitely not bottoming out.
Think what I was hearing was the track ratcheting when the suspension would compress and I would get back on the gas...the slack from airborne throttle chop, landing and compressing the suspension and then whacking the throttle back open.
Tightened the Powerclaw 162 to 1 1/4 inch at 22lbs. Went out yesterday in SUPER heavy snow cranked over in full throttle turns would hear a "clunk" didn't seem to affect rpm and wouldn't last like ratcheting. Just "clunk" and that was it. Being paranoid, I rolled the sled over on its side and tightened the adjusters one full turn each. Rode some more continued to hear an occasional "clunk"...decided to call it a day.
On the ride back heard another "clunk" and then a flapping sound. Slowed down cruised the last 1/2 mile back to the trailer and found that my belt had delaminated. All the top cogs were blown off. Wondering now if the clunking I was hearing was parts of the belt shearing off throughout the day.
My plan is to check the drivers and make sure they didn't spin on the shaft-- I'm assuming the centers will be deformed.
Will also recheck the the chain tension and make sure the clunk sound isn't the chain slack snapping tight
Any other suggestions? Am I hearing normal noises, track slap, etc and should just ignore?
What are others running 162 Powerclaws at for tension with Mtn Tamer Suspension? Should I ignore the occasional "clunk" on flat landings if it is not followed by additional "ratcheting"?
DamonJones
Extreme
The clunck may have been your clutch slamming closed. I know if you take off your belt and throttle the motor, when you let off the clutch makes a loud bang when it slams closed. If your belt was not in spec maybe what you heard was the clutch closing. Just a thought.
that is what I was thinking Damon...
can you feel the clunk in your feet? in your hands? or is it just the noise?
can you tell where it seems to be coming from? Side? below feet?
is it after your on the throttle? off the throttle?
what is the distance from your drivers to your rail tips?
can you feel the clunk in your feet? in your hands? or is it just the noise?
can you tell where it seems to be coming from? Side? below feet?
is it after your on the throttle? off the throttle?
what is the distance from your drivers to your rail tips?
murph
Extreme
aluminum point cut off rail tip (triangular shape on the end) and Wahl 4 wheel anti stab kit installedmtdream said:
frustrating that my lack of knowledge / experience is keeping me from pinpointing this-- give me a noise on a motorcycle and I can tell what it is and where it is coming from....
Under power, mid corner, the driveshaft wouldn't/ couldn't rock back then slam forward? Like the free play we all find when we spin the track by hand.
Thanks for the help. If it's normal I can ignore it-- just don't want to blow up the chaincase, spin a driver, or grenade something miles away from the trailer.....
murph
Extreme
I am a retard....
I am a retard....and a really lucky retard.....
Finally took a closer look trying to find my "clunk"....
outside wheel of Wahl anti-stab kit gone.... bolt sheared off! Luckily the shaft stayed in place due to the other side. Got REAL lucky though, the track windows were rubbing on the front of the rail, enough that the windows beveled the leading edge of the hyfax AND the rail (the stock plastic rubber tips were removed for installing anti-stab kit) luckily the center two wheels might have kept it off just enough to avoid stabbing.
Now thinking the "clunk" in right handers at full throttle in pow was a window whacking the end of the rail. and then luckily it would then go under the rail instead of getting speared...."phew"...
Needless to say, I am looking for a new anti stab setup... not sure if just putting a grade 8 will solve the shearing issue. Anyone else shear a bolt on a Wahl anti stab kit? Dodged a bullet this time, don't want to spear a track.
Going to also look at the play in the secondary, I know there is supposed to be 1-2mm but mine seems excessive, what are you guys running your secondary free play (in and out towards the motor--not rotational) and also look at the free play on the brake rotor, it also seems to be more than normal.
I am a retard....and a really lucky retard.....
Finally took a closer look trying to find my "clunk"....
outside wheel of Wahl anti-stab kit gone.... bolt sheared off! Luckily the shaft stayed in place due to the other side. Got REAL lucky though, the track windows were rubbing on the front of the rail, enough that the windows beveled the leading edge of the hyfax AND the rail (the stock plastic rubber tips were removed for installing anti-stab kit) luckily the center two wheels might have kept it off just enough to avoid stabbing.
Now thinking the "clunk" in right handers at full throttle in pow was a window whacking the end of the rail. and then luckily it would then go under the rail instead of getting speared...."phew"...
Needless to say, I am looking for a new anti stab setup... not sure if just putting a grade 8 will solve the shearing issue. Anyone else shear a bolt on a Wahl anti stab kit? Dodged a bullet this time, don't want to spear a track.
Going to also look at the play in the secondary, I know there is supposed to be 1-2mm but mine seems excessive, what are you guys running your secondary free play (in and out towards the motor--not rotational) and also look at the free play on the brake rotor, it also seems to be more than normal.
DamonJones
Extreme
Wow you did get lucky. That could have been extreamly costly for breaking a 50 cent bolt.
Get her fixed up so we can ride when I come down. I'll be praying for some new snow.
DJ
Get her fixed up so we can ride when I come down. I'll be praying for some new snow.
DJ
slap a grade 8 in there...you will be fine....my guess would be it was loose to begin with...if in doubt throw some locktite in it...
murph
Extreme
mtdream said:
Come on MT! I might be retarded but I'm not that retarded!
Bolt sheared, remaining threads are still loctited in there!
How much free play (in and out-not rotational) are you running in your secondary?
Did those clips go out USPS or FEDEX or UPS?....sometimes they have a hard time finding my address...
ROFL!!!! well you are a californian 
sorry just teasing...ok, I am just jealous as you have more pow than I have right now...
sorry just teasing...ok, I am just jealous as you have more pow than I have right now...
Mtnviper
Vendor
Cali's got more pow then we do as well, whats up with that!! The planets must be aligned wrong or something 
Glad to see you got'er figured out Murph!
I buddy speared his track last season on his turbo Phazer. There was just enough track left to where he could ride it out, at 5-10 mph. But at least we didn't have to tow it!
Glad to see you got'er figured out Murph!
I buddy speared his track last season on his turbo Phazer. There was just enough track left to where he could ride it out, at 5-10 mph. But at least we didn't have to tow it!
G-ball
Extreme
Why remove your rail tips?? I was able to keep mine on ... I needed to bore out some of the plastic so that I could get a socket on the ends of the bolts, and relocate the rivet forward which holds the tip on .....
..... when I pulled the tips off for instal of the anti-stab ..... well, they scared me! way too pointy for me to not cover back up!
I used a small hole saw on my drill to bore a bigger clearance space for the bolt head on the sides of the rail tips .......
Did you maybe clip a rock or something else hard to shear that bolt/wheel off?
..... when I pulled the tips off for instal of the anti-stab ..... well, they scared me! way too pointy for me to not cover back up!
I used a small hole saw on my drill to bore a bigger clearance space for the bolt head on the sides of the rail tips .......
Did you maybe clip a rock or something else hard to shear that bolt/wheel off?
G-ball said:
that is what I did...I think some instructions tell you to just cut the rail tips off...I didnt like that...sharp stuff up front scares me...So, just went this route...
G-ball
Extreme
Yep ... me too. Except I have the outside wheels on as well ...... 
murph
Extreme
I originally went the same route as you guys....but the tips protruded past the wheels so I removed the tips and trimmed the rails back.
MTDream, when my outside wheel sheared off, I had effectively the same setup up as you do now. When leaned way over in right handers the PC track would flex enough that the windows would start hitting the tips.
I have a new solution and I like it, using OEM Yamaha parts....I'll try and test it here today and post some pics.
MTDream, did those clips go USPS?--if so I need a tracking number so I can call the post office and pick them up (no USPS service here)
MTDream, when my outside wheel sheared off, I had effectively the same setup up as you do now. When leaned way over in right handers the PC track would flex enough that the windows would start hitting the tips.
I have a new solution and I like it, using OEM Yamaha parts....I'll try and test it here today and post some pics.
MTDream, did those clips go USPS?--if so I need a tracking number so I can call the post office and pick them up (no USPS service here)
