Fleecer
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Hey Dan, It may be not make a difference but when I measured mine with the gauge, I placed it with the thick side up per Dave's video. Just wondering if you get the same result with heel down.
I get 2 different measurements up vs down. Up like Daves video I was bang on. Down like Rockerdans pic off 2mm. Which way is better?
stohlem
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Yes,I would agree with you. Seems to me that the heel held upward like Dave shows, rests on the taper sheave and the narrow piece on the shaft. Maybe Dave at Hurricane will chime in on this.
Byam
TY 4 Stroke Guru
M hurricane need to chime in for sure! Dan is using the gonogo gauge one way and the guy who did the bar is using it the other way in is informative video....Yes,I would agree with you. Seems to me that the heel held upward like Dave shows, rests on the taper sheave and the narrow piece on the shaft. Maybe Dave at Hurricane will chime in on this.
Can we know the right way to use it please????
HURRICANE
TY 4 Stroke God
We made a demonstration video to show the correct way to use the clutch alignment tool. Dan interpreted the process his way but both should have the same results. If your not getting the same result then I suggest doing it according to the video
We made a demonstration video to show the correct way to use the clutch alignment tool. Dan interpreted the process his way but both should have the same results. If your not getting the same result then I suggest doing it according to the video
Question. How do you determine the thickness of the go no go gauge? I am under the assumption that the width of the belt is taken into consideration in wanting to make the belt as straight as possible. So as the belt wears and becomes narrower does that then effect offset?
Thank you
ROCKERDAN
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Mine measured same both ways, I set it as I did for ease of taking pics. Not sure how it could measure diff.
Dan
Dan
34pontiac
Expert
Same here. Did it both ways and the same result.Mine measured same both ways, I set it as I did for ease of taking pics. Not sure how it could measure diff.
Dan
Fleecer
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We made a demonstration video to show the correct way to use the clutch alignment tool. Dan interpreted the process his way but both should have the same results. If your not getting the same result then I suggest doing it according to the video
Dave, thanks for clarifying.
Hammer70
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I measured both ways on 3 winders I’m setting up all the same.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
So , doing it like it says in the Yamaha Manuel a good way to check it , it says 58-61mm
Fleecer
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I get 2 different measurements up vs down. Up like Daves video I was bang on. Down like Rockerdans pic off 2mm. Which way is better?
Well, picked at the sled tonight and checked clutch alignment both ways using Hurricane method and rockerdan method. Still 2 different readings?
When I looked at the small end of the gonogo gauge it was ground round on one side, hence it would not lay flat on the primary and gave me a false reading. Might be something worth checking.
I ground it flat and now when I use it either way I get the same reading. I think I prefer setting up gauge Rockerdans way, it seems more precise. Just my 5 cents.
This gauge is awesome and takes the guess work out of measuring proper alignment.
stevewithOCD
Yamaha, Make me Come Back
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I see, so the edge wasn't square. I'll check mine for precision.
ROCKERDAN
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I checked my gauge block, and the large corner is square, and narrow edge is parallel....So mine sets on there nicely. If you put narrow side down, then you may not have it setting perfectly vertical on the primary. I equate this with using a larger carpenters framing square, if you set the long side down then it will lay flat, if you set the long side up in air its difficult to know if you have it vertical or not.
What I do recommend is take some time on this. Get your face right in there between clutches to get a perfect look at things. Slide that secondary on all way to back, then you can slip it in/out and watch the gap at the gauge block closely. Take your time and get thing set right. A 1/2mm or so is not a huge deal, but get it as close as you can.
I will say this....MANY or not ALL will very likely need to machine the backside of secondary hub, to get inward close enough for the gauge block/bar to be where it wants.
Dan
What I do recommend is take some time on this. Get your face right in there between clutches to get a perfect look at things. Slide that secondary on all way to back, then you can slip it in/out and watch the gap at the gauge block closely. Take your time and get thing set right. A 1/2mm or so is not a huge deal, but get it as close as you can.
I will say this....MANY or not ALL will very likely need to machine the backside of secondary hub, to get inward close enough for the gauge block/bar to be where it wants.
Dan
Mototown
TY 4 Stroke Guru
New batch of belts are in , no updated number ....
Fleecer
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I checked my gauge block, and the large corner is square, and narrow edge is parallel....So mine sets on there nicely. If you put narrow side down, then you may not have it setting perfectly vertical on the primary. I equate this with using a larger carpenters framing square, if you set the long side down then it will lay flat, if you set the long side up in air its difficult to know if you have it vertical or not.
What I do recommend is take some time on this. Get your face right in there between clutches to get a perfect look at things. Slide that secondary on all way to back, then you can slip it in/out and watch the gap at the gauge block closely. Take your time and get thing set right. A 1/2mm or so is not a huge deal, but get it as close as you can.
I will say this....MANY or not ALL will very likely need to machine the backside of secondary hub, to get inward close enough for the gauge block/bar to be where it wants.
Dan
Good advice Dan. This is how I did it in case it helps anyone. I had 2 yamaha shims (1mm and 2mm) designed to slide on the jackshaft behind the secondary. I used these to measure what was missing. I installed the alignment tool in secondary, lowered it against gonogo gauge in the primary like in rockerdans pic and slide 2mm shim between bar and gonogo gauge for perfect fit. Hence clutch had to go in 2mm for perfect spec. Since I had no shims behind secondary from the factory I had 3mm machined, then put 1mm shim behind secondary. Also had 2mm machined off plug on clutch bolt. The 2mm shim will sit in the toolbox forever now with no use. Lol. Hopefully this extends belt life.
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