Clutch sheave temps

[TD Max]

I took my Raytek out and shot my clutch engine cold in garage 62°f matched ambient so I know that there are not emissivity issues with reading the surface.

After running hard a bit plus a couple minutes of cool down the Primary tends to run 150°f depending where you shoot it. The further out that you shoot it the higher it reads Now is this because that area is hotter or is the heat travelling outward as it thins?

I do intend to retest now with discoloration to try to proof the consistency and accuracy.

 

[swampcat]

My Raytek will not read on metal, too shiney. Works good on belt though. Last time I shot the belt I was getting 140F, which is WAY too hot. Have since made some adjustments. Still waiting to get back on some snow to check changes.

 

[yamahaguy]

If anyone gets the clutches hot I do running through the woods up and down hills as low speeds on and off the throttle all the time, this is why I bought the sled. At lower speeds there's zero air movement to help cool the clutches down they so they get very hot! When snow hits them instant steam. The engine temp runs 160ish to 180ish and crank shaft will conduct engine heat to the clutches since metal is a conductor of heat. Is this really a problem at 150ish?

 

[cannondale27]

If anyone gets the clutches hot I do running through the woods up and down hills as low speeds on and off the throttle all the time, this is why I bought the sled. At lower speeds there's zero air movement to help cool the clutches down they so they get very hot! When snow hits them instant steam. The engine temp runs 160ish to 180ish and crank shaft will conduct a lot engine heat to the clutches since metal is a conductor of heat. Is this really a problem at 150ish?

No its not a problem. Clutches have been these temps or more in Yamahas forever. As long as the belts hold up and they do. Its not a issue. Guys I made a ton of runs last two days. Did alot of clutching. They were hot but in less than the time it takes to remove belt they are cool enough to stick my hand in clutches and change weight. So good to go.

 

[Studroes144]

I took my Raytek out and shot my clutch engine cold in garage 62°f matched ambient so I know that there are not emissivity issues with reading the surface.

After running hard a bit plus a couple minutes of cool down the Primary tends to run 150°f depending where you shoot it. The further out that you shoot it the higher it reads Now is this because that area is hotter or is the heat travelling outward as it thins?

I do intend to retest now with discoloration to try to proof the consistency and accuracy.

Id say more than anything, the further u go out on the primary with temps rising is very likely a direct link to clutch efficiency as it relates to gearing. The further you can stay from full shift on the primary the more efficient and consistent the clutches and sled will run.

 

[ClutchMaster]

MAX what are your mods and clutch setup?

 

[TD Max]

Tonight I started it up and went slowly around the yard a couple times before running inside to thaw. I noticed warmth in the fixed sheave coming from the engine so I guess shooting temps is kind of a wash.

My clutch setup is best laid out here: http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/viper-rtx-le-clutching.133231/page-5

 

[ClutchMaster]

Secondary spring and wrap? Sled is stock?

 

[TD Max]

SPI can and air Stingray's DIY box mod with Ulmer velocity stacks. I do have a PCFC as well, but primarily used to clean up the idle to engagement area.

6-2 wrap and have run pink, Ulmer red, and TPI blue with similar results. I keep getting drawn back to the Ulmer red as it has more explosive launch.