Daranello
Suspended
SledFreak said:
Yep, may have to do that, my buddy was out today hes 5mph faster today then yesterday...but I could not get out there...
w8nfsnow
Newbie
Daranello said:
Come borrow my MCX Nytro XTX and tell your buddy you spent a late night tuning in the garage! Check the link of a run I made at NBSSR. This is with 12psi boost running pump gas everything in full trail mode!
http://s794.photobucket.com/albums/...led racing/?action=view¤t=Nytro1334.flv
BADSLED
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Mine does the same... Run your oil level so it indicates halfway on oil dipstick range. I also disconnected my valve cover hose from the filter as it creates vaccum.Daranello said:
SledFreak
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w8nfsnow said:
Nice run.... Did you have to shim the head for that much boost? Pump gas? Meth injection...
w8nfsnow
Newbie
SledFreak said:
I'm running the head shim included with the McXpress kit. Thought about a meth kit but didn't want to add more plumbing and weight. I do run it rich to be safe on pump gas. The thing runs as fast on snow as it does on ice and makes me laugh every time I hit it! Its a shame they are so expensive to build and I am considering selling it because of that.
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w8nfsnow said:
How's the Turbo lag compared to stock off the bottom, when shimming the head? Is there much lag there... At what RPM does it start to make boost at?
Daranello
Suspended
w8nfsnow, well be on Ramsey Tomm morning...Myself, Apex and Attak Mxpress Turbo...be some good running
Daranello
Suspended
Well good news...no tip weight or mid weight hit 122mph speedo 113GPS @9200-9300...condition were ok but im spinning bad on top....I know its just a matter of time before I hit 115+mph GPS
My shift out was at 8800-8900 rpms...Is that too high??? should I add the mid weight back???? If I do what do u think will happen to the top end??
My shift out was at 8800-8900 rpms...Is that too high??? should I add the mid weight back???? If I do what do u think will happen to the top end??
SledFreak
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Daranello said:
Try adding one washer to the heel first. It will pull harder on the bottom and bring your shift down a bit as long as you are not spinning to bad off the start. If you notice the sled bogs or pull the REV's down when you hammer it, then you are sucking the belt down into the seconadry to fast, which is causing it to over shift. If it pull's the RPM's down just a little, like 8400-8600, then leave it in the heel.... If makes no difference in top end, then take it out and try the mid.... But remember for all out top end, you need high RPM like you were running. 9200-9300-9350. For all out lake runs that's good, but general trail riding, then 9000-9100 is where you want to be.... By the way, are you keeping this sled another year?
It's too bad it was not rock solid hard like last year, because I believe you got a few more mph in it... I think you could hit 117-118.... If you are spinning on top end, then you should of put those 1.50 Top Gun II's in like I did.... Way better pull all the way around.... Pray for some colder mornings....
Daranello
Suspended
Yep one more year, I love this sled...
btw my 1.375 Top Gun II hit my heat sheild near the flex pipes on the headers
What the diff adding to the heal or Mid.....what are the pros and cons
Whats your set up???
btw my 1.375 Top Gun II hit my heat sheild near the flex pipes on the headers
What the diff adding to the heal or Mid.....what are the pros and cons
Whats your set up???
Turk
Tech Advisor
heel weight will take away top end. It will give better acceleration down low tho.
BADSLED
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Daranello said:
It's all about adequate distribution of weight within the 3 positions of your S/T weight. Start removing or adding weight and your messing with the shift curve. Drop your stock weights in and you will immediately notice how they react more aggressively on top end but low end pull isn't quite there compared to Allen's setup . The other variable you have to watch is your RPM.. Increased RPM will result in increased MPH as long as you are fully shifting out.
I would highly suggest reading Olav Aaen's clutch tuning book to provide you with a good baseline understanding how clutching works.
Daranello
Suspended
How do you know your "fully shifting out"
and where do u find Olav Aaens book?
and where do u find Olav Aaens book?
BADSLED
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Here you go..
http://www.aaenperformance.com/Handbooks.asp
It's how far your belt comes up to the very top of primary sheaves. You should be approximately 3/16" fro the very top.
http://www.aaenperformance.com/Handbooks.asp
It's how far your belt comes up to the very top of primary sheaves. You should be approximately 3/16" fro the very top.
Daranello
Suspended
BADSLED said:
I going to fast to look
how do u know for sure?
