Clutching on the cheap

[Kerrdog569]

Most guys will like that kinda setup, one that works well in most conditions, adding shims for more belt pressure and getting weights to hold a steady rpm is going to basically just a comfort setup to optimize a rather stock setup. One of our guys likes his viper setup like that, his runs good on the trail, in the snow and in a race, however it's only faster in the snow than mine..by snow I mean the 1 mile of deep snow we ride to to access the 5000 miles of trails..the setup I went with is a much faster trail/race setup.

did your d&d clutch kit come with the magnet adjustable weights or is that something you added?

 

[RTX]

8FP Weights Part number 8FP-17605-00-00 are $55.99 each retail ($167.97 for a set of 3)
GWG Primary Spring Part Number 90501-603L3-00: $24.49
Primary spring shim from Yamaha Part Number 90201-483P9-00: $6.95
3.6 gram rivet Part number 90269-06006-00: $2.95 each ($8.85 for a set of 3)
Dalton Helix 46/40 (or similar angle): $125
Helix Shims so secondary spring doesn't coil bind: $1

That, if you paid retail, would come to $334.26 for a total for all components. Now with the rivets, if the 3.6 gram isn't correct on the first time, then you have to grind the rivet and pound it back out and buy 3 more. An aftermarket clutch kit costs about $400 (just looking at Ulmer's, since that is the most common one seen on here) and has infinite adjust ability with screws & washers (this will allow easily for more horsepower added later on (like if someone were to spring for the turbo option), etc).

This was not to try to take anything away from anyone, just showing retail vs retail pricing, it's not much different.

Also, if Yamaha did put smaller rollers in, that will have the opposite affect on the clutching from what you just described you did Stingray. You said you put a shim in under the primary spring, this will raise the engagement and top end RPM. Small rollers will make the clutch engage lower and upshift faster (bringing down top end RPM), but maybe I'm just reading your wording incorrectly.

Not looking to argue the issue but In my opinion i think your post is a bit misleading
The retail cost of 400 for ulmers kit is the ACTUAL cost. Not including shipping.

As far as yamaha parts go, I dont know of anyone that pays retail for parts. The ACTUAL prices i paid for my parts are listed below
8fp weight = 36.63 x 3 = 109.89
Rivets .50 x 3 =. 1.50
Shim/washer 4.86 x 3 = 14.59
Spring green white green= 17.14
Total 143.12 + 20 shipping =163.12
49/35 progressive helix = 69.95 +10.20 shipping = 80.15
243.27 total

There is an easy $ 150 difference in the 2 prices.

Is it easier to adjust ulmers clutch? ABSOLUTELY!!!
The thing is, the vast majority of the clutch tuning has already been done on the parts being discussed here.
Changing out 50 cent rivets 1 or 2 times to get it perfect isn't a big issue. At least not for me when i know im saving $150

Simply put,if you dont have the tools, are not mechanically inclined, dont care about cost, or expect to modify your sled anytime soon. Buy a kit from a reputable vendor thats easy to adjust.

If you have tools, are mechanically inclined, love to save money and like to do some tinkering yourself.
give the parts listed here a try.

In my opinion either solution is a win

 

[Kerrdog569]

I talked to stingray719 last night on the phone and he's pretty sharp guys ,I really feel for the money you gotta give his suggestions a try,speaking from lots of clutching experience (mostly with polaris,ski doo,and cat) even if you spend the 400$ your still going to tinker to dial it in for your sled,your weight and riding style 150$ buys a lot of gas

 

[Studroes144]

did your d&d clutch kit come with the magnet adjustable weights or is that something you added?

Yes the kit comes with the weights, you can simply run the weights and nothing else and get a good outcome, but where a complete clutch kit will excell is with the helix itself, keeping rpm steady and added belt pressure is a must and they're good characteristics of a cheap kit but the helix itself in a complete kit is what's going to give you that extra edge, the cheap setup as described here im sure will work, id expect to adjust weights somewhat no matter which route you go, but the helix/spring wrap combo is what's going to allow you to use ALL the power of the engine which will be slightly harnessed in the stock secondary otherwise. Idk what the angle of a stock helix is but mine pulls 8900-9000 rpm from the launch all the way to top speed and with a 46/50 helix it's shifting out quite fast in comparison to stock, consistent rpm and faster shift out make for an all around fast sled, the setups to keep rpm consistent and maintain good belt pressure are good to a certain point. It's kinda like stopping for lunch and ordering a burger, that burger will be good no matter what..but it'll be that much better with bacon lol. Good comparison as I sit here on my sled thinking about riding someplace for lunch lol if only the white stuff was here!

 

[stingray719]

Yes the kit comes with the weights, you can simply run the weights and nothing else and get a good outcome, but where a complete clutch kit will excell is with the helix itself, keeping rpm steady and added belt pressure is a must and they're good characteristics of a cheap kit but the helix itself in a complete kit is what's going to give you that extra edge, the cheap setup as described here im sure will work, id expect to adjust weights somewhat no matter which route you go, but the helix/spring wrap combo is what's going to allow you to use ALL the power of the engine which will be slightly harnessed in the stock secondary otherwise. Idk what the angle of a stock helix is but mine pulls 8900-9000 rpm from the launch all the way to top speed and with a 46/50 helix it's shifting out quite fast in comparison to stock, consistent rpm and faster shift out make for an all around fast sled, the setups to keep rpm consistent and maintain good belt pressure are good to a certain point. It's kinda like stopping for lunch and ordering a burger, that burger will be good no matter what..but it'll be that much better with bacon lol. Good comparison as I sit here on my sled thinking about riding someplace for lunch lol if only the white stuff was here!

Barry have you ridden or tried our setup? By your comments I am assuming not, might want to try it before you get to far into what it does the same as I am not saying what your setup does as I have not tried it. Not trying to be unfriendly but you make statements about our setup that are not accurate according to our testing. Lets get some snow and show you before you criticize us too much.

 

[Kerrdog569]

Yes the kit comes with the weights, you can simply run the weights and nothing else and get a good outcome, but where a complete clutch kit will excell is with the helix itself, keeping rpm steady and added belt pressure is a must and they're good characteristics of a cheap kit but the helix itself in a complete kit is what's going to give you that extra edge, the cheap setup as described here im sure will work, id expect to adjust weights somewhat no matter which route you go, but the helix/spring wrap combo is what's going to allow you to use ALL the power of the engine which will be slightly harnessed in the stock secondary otherwise. Idk what the angle of a stock helix is but mine pulls 8900-9000 rpm from the launch all the way to top speed and with a 46/50 helix it's shifting out quite fast in comparison to stock, consistent rpm and faster shift out make for an all around fast sled, the setups to keep rpm consistent and maintain good belt pressure are good to a certain point. It's kinda like stopping for lunch and ordering a burger, that burger will be good no matter what..but it'll be that much better with bacon lol. Good comparison as I sit here on my sled thinking about riding someplace for lunch lol if only the white stuff was here!

thanks for the info,with a new sled to dial in its great getting set up idea's from both ends of the price range

 

[Studroes144]

On a side not I ran the 8jp belt all year, clutch setup will more than likely vary slightly for anyone using the 8dn belt. Would just have to adjust some magnet settings or screws or however the weights are setup

 

[weasel33]

Nos-pro and stingray, just because a couple guys on here go back and forth with you, keep posting what you clutching is because there are a lot of us that like hearing what you have to say and are learning from your experience.

 

[shagman]

Yes the kit comes with the weights, you can simply run the weights and nothing else and get a good outcome, but where a complete clutch kit will excell is with the helix itself, keeping rpm steady and added belt pressure is a must and they're good characteristics of a cheap kit but the helix itself in a complete kit is what's going to give you that extra edge, the cheap setup as described here im sure will work, id expect to adjust weights somewhat no matter which route you go, but the helix/spring wrap combo is what's going to allow you to use ALL the power of the engine which will be slightly harnessed in the stock secondary otherwise. Idk what the angle of a stock helix is but mine pulls 8900-9000 rpm from the launch all the way to top speed and with a 46/50 helix it's shifting out quite fast in comparison to stock, consistent rpm and faster shift out make for an all around fast sled, the setups to keep rpm consistent and maintain good belt pressure are good to a certain point. It's kinda like stopping for lunch and ordering a burger, that burger will be good no matter what..but it'll be that much better with bacon lol. Good comparison as I sit here on my sled thinking about riding someplace for lunch lol if only the white stuff was here!

Barry is this setup for a sled with a turbo? The reason I ask is that you list a 46/50 helix and there was no way my Stock XTX would pull a helix that steep. Not enough hp for that helix to work.

 

[RTX]

Nos-pro and stingray, just because a couple guys on here go back and forth with you, keep posting what you clutching is because there are a lot of us that like hearing what you have to say and are learning from your experience.

I think its all good. I like hearing everyones different set up.
Lots of guys claim their sled runs fast. Unless you ride with them how do you really know???
Posting up what you use helps guys like me weed out the real players from the fantasy team. Lol

 

[Kerrdog569]

Nos-pro and stingray, just because a couple guys on here go back and forth with you, keep posting what you clutching is because there are a lot of us that like hearing what you have to say and are learning from your experience.

I know I'm gonna try stingray's set up first and his airbox mod too

 

[stingray719]

On a side not I ran the 8jp belt all year, clutch setup will more than likely vary slightly for anyone using the 8dn belt. Would just have to adjust some magnet settings or screws or however the weights are setup

When I ran that limited number of miles on a 8jp our Viper RPM varied wildly in the deep snow and I think you posted above yours varied from trail to deep. Setup I have now does not vary whether I am in steep and deep or down the side street.

 

[stingray719]

I created a Clutch Kits thread hoping we could go back to DIY here in this thread.

 

[weasel33]

I think its all good. I like hearing everyones different set up.
Lots of guys claim their sled runs fast. Unless you ride with them how do you really know???
Posting up what you use helps guys like me weed out the real players from the fantasy team. Lol

I know, everyone claims their sled is the fastest bit nos and sting have time slips to prove it. That's what I'm going off of.

 

[shagman]

2 sets of 8fp weights are in the classified section. $80 for a set of 3.