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Clutching on the cheap

Can't remember the price off the top of my head. I think if you go on the Hurricane website he has the chain and 41 tooth gear available
 

I have 3400 miles on my Turbo viper and lots of trial and error with the clutching. Biggest problem with the turbo is staying off the rev limiter when you take off.
Here is my best clutch setup for great acceleration and top end. I have higher gears as well

8dn belt
24/41 Gears
Supertip weights. (Might try the Dalton weights this year)
Orange Primary spring
46/40 Helix (I've tried 4 different helixes and this had the best results)
Stock secondary spring wrapped at 6 & 2 (Tried 2 other springs but kept going back to the stock spring)

I'm no clutching guru, just posting my best results.


Try a 2mm shim under you primary spring and I think you will be able to go back to 3-3 on your secondary. Are your weights flat profile or arced? And if arced is it a gradual arc or have a bump in the heel like stock (causes higher rev at takeoff).
 
Just have to say again you guys are awesome. There is a lot of good information in this post that people can pick and choose from.

For those of you that are worried, just remember, most of us (well at least me) aren't kids anymore and we know that we can't just take a setup from someone else and expect perfection the first time around, it helps to have a starting point.

Thanks to the guys who chimed in on the type and expense of the weights I was going to buy you saved me some money. I was able to cancel the order for the new weights and get some off the forum for a lot better price. Now I should only have about a 120 bucks into my kit because I already had a helix.

Dave
 
Try a 2mm shim under you primary spring and I think you will be able to go back to 3-3 on your secondary. Are your weights flat profile or arced? And if arced is it a gradual arc or have a bump in the heel like stock (causes higher rev at takeoff).

They are arced with a little bump in the heal. I'm thinking the Dalton weights will work better. Just have to figure out what base weight I should get.

What is the shim going to do for me?
 
They are arced with a little bump in the heal. I'm thinking the Dalton weights will work better. Just have to figure out what base weight I should get.

What is the shim going to do for me?

The bump in the heel is what causes you to hit rev liniter on take off. I suggest a fairly flat profile as the Viper has a too quick an upshift issue. Shim explantion is lengthy, take longer to explain than putting the shim in to test...lol.
 
The bump in the heel is what causes you to hit rev liniter on take off. I suggest a fairly flat profile as the Viper has a too quick an upshift issue. Shim explantion is lengthy, take longer to explain than putting the shim in to test...lol.

Thanks for the help. I would like to here the theory behind the shim though. There is no snow so lots of time to read. lol
 
Holy crap! Have I been missing the boat here...... sorry guys.

Trying to catch up here....

Yes, running the 8DN belt needs to have 3 washers added to the tiny 8mm bolts on the backside of the secondary clutch. There are 3 washers (1 on each bolt right now) but will need 3 more (1 each bolt) for the 8DN to be spaced perfectly. Just switching to the 8DN belt will help for those who want to do one thing at a time.

The 3 washers that go under the helix need to be .080" minimum so they can raise the helix enough so the spring does not bind. I have currently machined my secondary to eliminate the need for the washers under the helix.
****Note - the washers can be just regular washers but they need to have 1 side ground to about an 1/8" to fit on the secondary towers. ****

I have the 8FP weights (Thanks for posting guys :) you guys rock!) setup like I had it you will not only have better engagement, better performance through the whole range but fuel mileage is greatly improved also.

Anyone that needs help with installs of the weights, helix or switching to the 8DN belt, I will be at Wausau grass drags and swap meet this Saturday and don't know how they will be at the gate, but if you want to bring your clutches to me I will switch your parts over for you :)
If you can't bring your primary clutch in because you don't have a clutch puller....at least I can show you how easy it is to change the weights and spring. Take me about 15 minutes to do both clutches.

Thank you Steve :)
thanks,what rivets ya putting in the weights?any suggestions on helix?
 
How does the 8fp weight profile compare to the 8fs? I actually have a set of 8fp weights and I compared them to my magnaforce weights, profile is exactly the same on both until the half way point and then the 8fp weights flatten out, the magnaforce weights are far more aggressive from middle to tip, matched up with a 50/46 helix, I haven't seen yet where anyone is running that aggressive or fast shifting of a setup of that that was in my bone stock viper that pulls 8900-9000 rpm anywhere. Wish I could post the pic of the weights on here but am not able to, I'll post them on the Facebook page for anyone to take a look at and feel free to share. Should give a bit more insight for those looking for an aggressive setup. For those that wanna go the route of the others that by the sounds of it have a good setup, I have a set of 8fp weights for sale
 
thanks,what rivets ya putting in the weights?any suggestions on helix?

Nos pro was running a 45/39.
i think he said it was a dalton or ulmer.
I was Following his posts, But when i ordered mine i f-ed up and ordered a 49/35.
Im gonna give it a try, If i dont like it i will put the stock helix back on till i can order the correct helix.
 
Ya i know.
I screwed up.
I have a bit of dyslexia with numbers. I tend to mix them up when im reading/copying them.
It was custom cut so i cant return it.
Like i said, if i hate it ill go back to stock, but its worth a try since i already own it.
 


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