ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
The first & most important part of this job is to warm up the garage, lol!!
This a fairly easy job that most can save $$ by doing it them self.
-first, remove hood, right side panel, right lower side panel & I also removed the light assembly & the air box to make it easier to get to the wire.
-drain oil, remove all hoses from the oil reservoir & remove the oil tank.
-unplug the stator from the regulator ( front of sled, top plug)
-remove the stator cover ( it is under magnetic force). Take note that there are three different length of bolts holding the cover on, the one really long one goes below the rubber grommet.
-measure the distance between the stator & the pick-up coil ( a necessity when using an aftermarket pick-up coil) I used OEM but measured anyway. I put a 1/4" drive 10mm socket between the stator & pick-up coil, fit nicely, then I got a more precise measurement using the feeler gauge with the 10mm socket. 10mm socket plus 15 thousands of an inch.(there is a pic of this)
-remove pick-up coil & stator & replace with new.
-make sure to thoroughly clean the old gasket off both the cover & housing as this has to have a good seal because it runs wet (oil bath)
-install new gasket & stator cover, re-route the wire to front of sled & plug stator back in.
-re-install the oil tank, hoses, airbox.......everything you took off in reverse order, lol
This a fairly easy job that most can save $$ by doing it them self.
-first, remove hood, right side panel, right lower side panel & I also removed the light assembly & the air box to make it easier to get to the wire.
-drain oil, remove all hoses from the oil reservoir & remove the oil tank.
-unplug the stator from the regulator ( front of sled, top plug)
-remove the stator cover ( it is under magnetic force). Take note that there are three different length of bolts holding the cover on, the one really long one goes below the rubber grommet.
-measure the distance between the stator & the pick-up coil ( a necessity when using an aftermarket pick-up coil) I used OEM but measured anyway. I put a 1/4" drive 10mm socket between the stator & pick-up coil, fit nicely, then I got a more precise measurement using the feeler gauge with the 10mm socket. 10mm socket plus 15 thousands of an inch.(there is a pic of this)
-remove pick-up coil & stator & replace with new.
-make sure to thoroughly clean the old gasket off both the cover & housing as this has to have a good seal because it runs wet (oil bath)
-install new gasket & stator cover, re-route the wire to front of sled & plug stator back in.
-re-install the oil tank, hoses, airbox.......everything you took off in reverse order, lol
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CaptCaper
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 2016 RS Vector XTX 1.25 Lug wifes..2013 RS Vector LTX.. 2003 600 VMax Past Machines 3-2007 Attaks 1-2010 Vector LTX.. sorry no Stinkdoos or poo's cats.
Nice thanks....
ebockus
Pro
Yes thank you
burg226
Extreme
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- Newcastle, ON CANADA
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- 2017 Arctic Cat 9000RR
I just finished this repair as well. I bought the aftermarket sensor from rmstator.com. No grinding or modification to the replacement sensor required. It was a perfect fit but still a pain in the arse to do. Sled fired up perfect after!
http://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/produ...ft-position-sensor-replacement-for-snowmobile
http://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/produ...ft-position-sensor-replacement-for-snowmobile
burg226
Extreme
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- Newcastle, ON CANADA
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- 2017 Arctic Cat 9000RR
This should also be a sticky with the title changed to "Code 12 - Crank Position Sensor Repair"
slowride06er
Lifetime Member
Why after market is it cost thing or performance thingI just finished this repair as well. I bought the aftermarket sensor from rmstator.com. No grinding or modification to the replacement sensor required. It was a perfect fit but still a pain in the arse to do. Sled fired up perfect after!
http://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/produ...ft-position-sensor-replacement-for-snowmobile
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
It is a cost thing for sure as OEM doesn't offer just the crank sensor. They sell the stator & sensor as one unit at a cost of just under $400. The RMstator crank sensor which must be spliced into the wiring cost under $30. I replaced both as I have heard of stator failures as well on the older models.Why after market is it cost thing or performance thing
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Could change the title to stator change & code 12 crank sensor repair instructions, thats a good idea. How do we make it a sticky, does admin have to do that?This should also be a sticky with the title changed to "Code 12 - Crank Position Sensor Repair"
slowride06er
Lifetime Member
Will a bad sensor take out a stator? Should I be replacing my sensor just because? I have a 06 ER with 8,1XXIt is a cost thing for sure as OEM doesn't offer just the crank sensor. They sell the stator & sensor as one unit at a cost of just under $400. The RMstator crank sensor which must be spliced into the wiring cost under $30. I replaced both as I have heard of stator failures as well on the older models.
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Sensor & stator run together but a bad sensor won't affect the stator. As far as changing it as preventative maintenance, I am not sure how many run into this problem & what the odds are of it failing.Will a bad sensor take out a stator? Should I be replacing my sensor just because? I have a 06 ER with 8,1XX
unclearpine
Extreme
Good write up! Thanks
tomanytoyz
Lifetime Member
My guess is Yamaha sells it as ONE unit --Stator and pick up coil because i believe many CAN and WILL make a mistake splicing in the pickup coil / (Yamaha) if they offered one << or RM stator pickup..
jcurrieta
Veteran
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- 2011 Apex (Hids, pipes and a chick on the hood)
I'll be doing my stator in my 2011 apex once it shows up i ordered an aftermarket stator and a gasket from yamaha. Sleds not charging,,, 12.4 volts not running, 12.3 volts running. I got ground continuity on all the white wires, and shows .5 olms on all different combanations of white wires. I was told wires are prob burnt to the stator frame. Good news is with one boost your sled will get you pretty far on a good battery (one boost got me home after it died.... i got 12 klms or more and landed home with 8volts left and it was still running but with a code 46 and no hand warmers working.
Im guessing it will be a good time to change my oil and filter?
I also think this thread should be a sticky or in the elec section not the general section. Great info and took me a while to find it on the site.
currently Jan 2018 canadian prices I found was 15$ gasket, $240 aftermarket or RM stator. $420 yamaha brand stator.
Im guessing it will be a good time to change my oil and filter?
I also think this thread should be a sticky or in the elec section not the general section. Great info and took me a while to find it on the site.
currently Jan 2018 canadian prices I found was 15$ gasket, $240 aftermarket or RM stator. $420 yamaha brand stator.
tomanytoyz
Lifetime Member
How many Km or Miles on machine , you original owner? I wonder if it ever has been sank ..I'll be doing my stator in my 2011 apex once it shows up i ordered an aftermarket stator and a gasket from yamaha. Sleds not charging,,, 12.4 volts not running, 12.3 volts running. I got ground continuity on all the white wires, and shows .5 olms on all different combanations of white wires. I was told wires are prob burnt to the stator frame. Good news is with one boost your sled will get you pretty far on a good battery (one boost got me home after it died.... i got 12 klms or more and landed home with 8volts left and it was still running but with a code 46 and no hand warmers working.
Im guessing it will be a good time to change my oil and filter?
I also think this thread should be a sticky or in the elec section not the general section. Great info and took me a while to find it on the site.
currently Jan 2018 canadian prices I found was 15$ gasket, $240 aftermarket or RM stator. $420 yamaha brand stator.
o's srx
Lifetime Member
Is this a problem with the first couple years of the Apex, or is it with all of them?
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