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Considering Simmons CPR apex

snowmaaan

Lifetime Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2005
Messages
226
Location
Fairmont, MN
Country
USA
Snowmobile
Yamaha Sidewinder, Viper XTX Turbo, Apex SE, Vmax 4, SRX 700
LOCATION
Farimont MN
I like performance with reliability. Is this a good setup for trail and everyday riding? The sled was built by Simmons so it should have correct installation.

Thoughts?
 

stage one or two?? Either way you should be fine for trail running. You will love the response. No lag at all. I have a stage 1 CPR on a 2007 attak. Just didn't get the greatest fuel mileage, I am in the throttle too much.
 
Its a stage 1. What kind of mileage do you get? I had an attak with a charger and wished i would have kept it!! Riding stock stuff isnt the same
 
the best I got is around 80 to 90 on a full tank. Be I was very rich on my air to fuel ratio. So that was wasting fuel. Other people say they get close to stock mileage, but I couldn't even get close.

With a turbo you can dial the boost up or down. So trail riding run it at 5-6 lbs then racing kick it up to 12-14 lbs. All that turbo is good for 15-16lbs. max. You will be happy with the turbo.
 
We have one and as a trail set-up it adds to much weight to the front end and handling wasn't the greatest. We only ran at about 11-12lbs with lower compression on pump gas and that was a little to much for trail riding. We also tried to go up to 15-16lbs but with the fuel box provided you couldn't get enough fuel to it to get that high. At 11-12lbs it does run pretty good about 260hp i would say. I agree w/aja on fuel consumption.
 
If you look back in a search you can find my dyno sheets from Dynotech. I was running pig rich @10 to 1 a/f ratio and still managed 271 HP @ 13 lbs boost. Great Performance from this kit.

just make sure you can get good fuel!!!!

Lucky enough I got the High boost fuel controller and didn't have the fuel issues at higher boost. Look to see if the fuel controller hooks into the injectors or the big grey plug. The one that hooks into the injectors is the high boost controller which is good for 30lbs. boost.

I also noticed the added weight on the handling side, but for me I am building a lake runner, just have to ride trails to get where I can run it opwn.

aj
 
hey aj. i'm going to be turning mine up soon. How do i know if my pure logic will keep up. it came with my cpr kit. Getting the head shim done shortly
 
I was told that the High boost controller (stage 2 and 3)that came from CPR hooks into the injector wiring and the standard stage 1 controller hooks into the wire warness(big grey plug on frame rail).

I backed up that with putting a call into Pure Logic, the maker of the fuel controller and they also told to same thing. Supposed to be good for 30lbs boost.

Hopefully they are right I plan on going high boost as well. I upgrade turbo and exhaust this year. I am thinking of doing another Dyno session once I get everything dialed in again before this season starts. If I do I will let everyone know the results.

aj
 
i asked the same question for the powderlites box but nobody could answer me, mine plugs in the grey connector, and the guy i bought it from swears its a high boost version, and i know some early powderlites boxes did plug into the injectors.... confused...
 
FLYBYU said:
mine plugged into each injector. So that would be the high boost model.

It should be. Thats what I have been told, What is confusing is there are so many different fuel controllers out there from all the different companys, and each one has different programming to them.
 
turbor said:
i asked the same question for the powderlites box but nobody could answer me, mine plugs in the grey connector, and the guy i bought it from swears its a high boost version, and i know some early powderlites boxes did plug into the injectors.... confused...


The later boxes pluged into the grey connector, they usually have the low boost "15lb" map sensor. I did have these boxes with the high boost map but, Dobeck won't guarantee the high boost maps anymore. One thing that helps the high boost map live longer is disabling the VCA Clamp. This has to be programed into the box. I disable my boxes, works much better that way. The VCA Clamp makes the Yamha ECU stupid and clamps the map sensor voltage to 2.85 volts on the sled. Don't ask me why they do this? I've been told there are some rare trail situations that it helps. Also don't connect the blue hose to any port that see's vacumn. :flag:



www.powerbygns.com
 
TWIN TURBO said:
they usually have the low boost "15lb" map sensor. :flag:

I witnessed a few piggy back programmer failures last year (not high boost models) where the lights stopped flashing and stayed constant, acting like they were sensing boost all the time. I think it was related to the MAP sensor failing, but they hadn't been exposed to real high boost. This has me concerned about the reliability on my dobeck on my trail sled... can't have that if i want to ride with AJ in Old Forge this year. ;)!

Any thoughts on cause and what a safe boost level is for these built in MAP's?
What is an alternative if one wants to run 18+ lbs boost then?

Thanks for your feedback!
 
hopefully mine don't fail this year, otherwise I will have to get that Rapid bike 3. I didn't hear about problems until now, I will keep a watchful eye on it this season.

Morey any time you want to go ride just let me know, I have done some changes this year, and I am hoping to place higher at the shoot out this year. But I am sure there will be some major Iron there.

aj
 


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