Coolant hose protectors

[SledFreak]

A track should be always be tighten to spec! Anything looser and you are asking for problems. I always run my track on the tighter side of spec. No issues and its faster then loose. The loose track was a thing of the past with the old heavy tracks and a .50 lug. With bigger lugs, you need to run them tighter.

 

[HABS 1]

A track should be always be tighten to spec! Anything looser and you are asking for problems. I always run my track on the tighter side of spec. No issues and its faster then loose. The loose track was a thing of the past with the old heavy tracks and a .50 lug. With bigger lugs, you need to run them tighter.

A track should be always be tighten to spec! Anything looser and you are asking for problems. I always run my track on the tighter side of spec. No issues and its faster then loose. The loose track was a thing of the past with the old heavy tracks and a .50 lug. With bigger lugs, you need to run them tighter.

mabe im still thinkin ol school, i know on my apex with a 1.5 intense i ran 2 inches of sagg,1 inch with no duponts and the approach angle on that skid and ur slides were gone in an afternoon! i just finished putting the skid back in my 21 winder with 2 in luggs, set it at 1.5 inch sagg , was gonna go 2 inch also but 1.5 looked proper, no idea what stock or book setting is but just had luck running on loose side, tom hartman told me that years ago and its allways stuck with me,personal preference mabe?

 

[1nc 2000]

BOP hose protectors installed.

STM fwd tunnel protectors shortened to 17 inches long. Shortened on the fwd end.

Looks like about 1/2 inch clearance with 1.50 track at front of STM protectors.

Also cut a 45 ° angle on front of STM tunnel protectors for backing up purposes.

 

[Phatboyc]

Your signature says you had a 1.75 before? No protector I guess?

 

[1nc 2000]

Your signature says you had a 1.75 before? No protector I guess?

Yes, sled came with a 1.75 on it new.
After I wore that track out it now has a 1.50 on it for one season. Need traction.

 

[Turboflash]

iv always ran tracks loose, as loose as possible without ratchet, easier on sliders and rolling resistance, i allways was told loose is faster? i also dont stud anything anymore iv wrecked to much stuff with studs over the years lol but imo if u have to banjo a track for clearance thats way to close

This is directly from Turbo Dynamics 998 Performance Guide:
- Make sure you have a tight track (must not hang at all when lifted off ground, must be hard to push off the front bogey wheel). It is highly preferable to have a 4 wheel kit upgrade to maintain reliable track tension especially when running high power and or fast speed. Running a loose track will rob lots of top speed (as track balloons from centrifugal forces). Also loose track can cause ratchening of track drivers which will damage them and or the track. Radar running require a VERY tight track as high speed cause expansion.

 

[Turboflash]

A track should be always be tighten to spec! Anything looser and you are asking for problems. I always run my track on the tighter side of spec. No issues and its faster then loose. The loose track was a thing of the past with the old heavy tracks and a .50 lug. With bigger lugs, you need to run them tighter.

From TD 998 Performance Guide:
- Make sure you have a tight track (must not hang at all when lifted off ground, must be hard to push off the front bogey wheel). It is highly preferable to have a 4 wheel kit upgrade to maintain reliable track tension especially when running high power and or fast speed. Running a loose track will rob lots of top speed (as track baloons from centrifugal forces). Also loose track can cause ratchening of track drivers which will damage them and or the track. Radar running require a VERY tight track as high speed cause expansion.

 

[HABS 1]

From TD 998 Performance Guide:

- Make sure you have a tight track (must not hang at all when lifted off ground, must be hard to push off the front bogey wheel). It is highly preferable to have a 4 wheel kit upgrade to maintain reliable track tension especially when running high power and or fast speed. Running a loose track will rob lots of top speed (as track baloons from centrifugal forces). Also loose track can cause ratchening of track drivers which will damage them and or the track. Radar running require a VERY tight track as high speed cause expansion.

nice! i may snugg mine up a bit from 1.5 sag now lol,mabe to .5 or so , i just dont like tight tight, i would think it would hold suspension from working and stretch track over time , is everyone running them this tight?

 

[jonlafon1]

From TD 998 Performance Guide:

nice! i may snugg mine up a bit from 1.5 sag now lol,mabe to .5 or so , i just dont like tight tight, i would think it would hold suspension from working and stretch track over time , is everyone running them this tight?

Yea most running tunes are.. I like to run mine just slightly off the rails like barely.. still way tighter then book says. Top end pulls the track balloons.. Tighten it up!

 

[74Nitro]

The design flaw is in the way the tunnel connects to the front heat exchanger. The tubes coming forward from the rear exchanger just rivet to the bottom of the tunnel. The hoses connect the two together. When the light flexible tunnel gets pushed up in the middle from snow and ice the tubes from the rear exchanger also get pushed up allowing the hoses to cut from the inside out.
The tunnel needs to be stronger here.
The barn of parts hose protectors should help with this problem.
Also a plate added to the top or bottom of the tunnel will help in this area.

I'm changing this hose on a 17 9000 today. I completely agree with you on why it fails. Need more strength here.
What a PIA to change it. I removed all the rivets except the last one(6 out of 7).
Was able to lower it at the front enough and wrestle the new hose in.

 

[1nc 2000]

I was thinking about changing those hoses on mine this summer just as preventive maintenance.

 

[pmk]

The design flaw is in the way the tunnel connects to the front heat exchanger. The tubes coming forward from the rear exchanger just rivet to the bottom of the tunnel. The hoses connect the two together. When the light flexible tunnel gets pushed up in the middle from snow and ice the tubes from the rear exchanger also get pushed up allowing the hoses to cut from the inside out.
The tunnel needs to be stronger here.
The barn of parts hose protectors should help with this problem.
Also a plate added to the top or bottom of the tunnel will help in this area.

This was exactly how mine failed last year. The tunnel was bashed up and the hose was cut through from the inside. I added a reinforcement plate that I bought from craigwsrx as well as the BOP hose protectors. The reinforcement plate was very well made and stiffened the assembly up nicely. Thanks Craig. I don’t think the protectors alone would have prevented my failure.

 

[74Nitro]

Cuts on the bottom of the rear nipple from being forced up.

 

[74Nitro]

Added a few more of the Yamaha rivets.

 

[Phatboyc]

Cuts on the bottom of the rear nipple from being forced up.

You remember the model year and approximate mileage of that sled?