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Crank plane bearing number missing on crankcase ?

Joined
Mar 10, 2024
Messages
6
Age
33
Location
San Diego
Country
USA
Snowmobile
14 viper
Okay so I need some help with this 2014 viper engine I’m currently building .. any insight is greatly appreciated.. selecting bearing sizes is composed of two numbers ( one on case and one on crank) in a formula that spits out which color bearing i need to purchase .. here the dooper .. can’t find the numbers where they should be on the block?? Am I in the right location? Of course I’d just copy the colors the bearings don’t show on the sides of them .. thaatddd be way to easy!
 

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guys I’m kind of leaning on this to gain insight on this hahs I need to order some bearings and supposed to be racing in two weekends

Not the first time I’ve had something just plain notnbebthrre .. why in the world Yamaha would use a paint pet over a machined dimple to slight the crank to balancer isnbeyond me … lol

Back to the subject of bearings however .. I built this motor myself over the last few Monhs as this we’d to be swapped into a yxz .. I used arp case bolts and arp hesdstuds on assembly. As well as a billet water pump impeller .. I cut it so after I got it ran for a few hours. I cut open an oil filter to find some bearing material, cleaned it put it back, checked it again found more material so the motor came out and I put the cases to find mains 2-3 almost all the way through the soft bearing material .. outsides 1-4 were just fine .. didn’t spin and single bearing and should be clear to replace with like in kind .. can’t find color on the sides of these bearings ( they all have the serial #on the back
f-780
36ce
Those seem to have zero correlation with the next size up or down bearing

Is there a reference chart somewhere on the web thst has bearing colors along with main bearing journal sizes??

I’m just thinking outloud of ways to get the bearing sizing with out. Having the case numbers ‍♂️
 

Here is a similiar discussion. Turns out they did what we did back in high school. We used a micrometer to get in the ballpark and then checked our parts with plastigage. Sorry I can't help you more.
 
Your number of 2-2-2-1 should equate to 5 - 2 + 2 = 5 which should be Yellow in color for the first three main bearings. The magneto side would be 5 -1 + 2 = 6 would be Pink in color.
 
Your single "5" stamp there I believe means that all the case numbers are 5.
Yes, even the crank case in the linked Partzilla vid had the same '5' single digit number where he too stated that it meant all journal locations were the same at 5.
 
Your number of 2-2-2-1 should equate to 5 - 2 + 2 = 5 which should be Yellow in color for the first three main bearings. The magneto side would be 5 -1 + 2 = 6 would be Pink in color.
No fkn way ! Honestly now that I’m sitting here that is such an obvious answer to that unknown problem ha .. didn’t think the Japanese would ever make it that easy
 
Your bearing problems could be the ARP case studs, any change in torque application compared to the OEM bolt & torque sequence could be distorting the bearing bores. It doesn't take much to cause issues. IMO the stock bolts work just fine to 400+ horsepower.
 
Your bearing problems could be the ARP case studs, any change in torque application compared to the OEM bolt & torque sequence could be distorting the bearing bores. It doesn't take much to cause issues. IMO the stock bolts work just fine to 400+ horsepower.
And I find it crazy here in the Mecca of Offroad and machine shops nobody can line bore smaller than 1.750 so I why Brian crowder would sell me studs with no nearby solution kind of unnecessary for the small buck he made on the commission lol with they being said I wanted them so that I wouldn’t have to replace crank bolts every single time I split the cases I found that being kind of a big selling point for the Arps tbh
 
Your bearing problems could be the ARP case studs, any change in torque application compared to the OEM bolt & torque sequence could be distorting the bearing bores. It doesn't take much to cause issues. IMO the stock bolts work just fine to 400+ horsepower.
So question regarding these oem ve arp bolts , would it be illadvised to use the arp bolts but with the oe spec torque values and sequence ?
 


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