staffbuoy
Veteran
no
How do i check the stator
How do i check the stator
First of all I'm not sure of terminology on sleds so bear with me the stator is magnet when it goes round there is a thing next to it that you can adjust timming with check gap between that and stator I don't know what it is in old school cars you can use match book cover (points on car ) make sure its comming out of wires if someone can help with words please do or any specs check tech section see if its there
darv
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2005
- Messages
- 1,464
- Age
- 64
- Location
- International Falls,minnesota
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 08 Apex 40th LTX
you can check the stator with a mult meter, but they sometimes check ok and when they get hot there are bad. sometimes you can put a heat gun on them and get them warm and you will find they are good but bad. the ones i have dealt with i had no luck just make sure that you that you check every thing else before you buy a stator they are a little on pricy side.Best luck
dhkr123
Expert
There are 5 wires that come out of the stator running to two plugs. The plug with 3 wires is NOT NEEDED for the engine to RUN as long as you have sufficient battery voltage to operate the ECU (you can literally unplug it and the engine will keep on going just fine). The plug with 2 wires ***IS CRITICAL***. These are the crank sensor wires that tell the ECU where the crankshaft is. Without them, there is no spark. I don't know if you need a scope to test those, or if a simple A/C voltage test will suffice. If there is nothing going on those wires, then you really need to hope that the wire is broken before it gets buried in the engine.
In order to get spark on this engine, you literally need the following connections made to the ECU:
crank sensor,
+12V,
GRD,
+12V (kill switch circuit).
And that is IT.
You check your crank sensor with a scope or A/C voltmeter, you check your GRD with a DC voltmeter (to + terminal on battery), you check both your +12V lines with a DC voltmeter (to - terminal on battery).
The +12V lines in to the ECU are brown with white tracer.
The GRD line in to the ECU is a thick BLACK wire. The crank sensor lines in to the ECU are a WHITE wire with GREEN tracer and a WHITE wire with RED tracer.
You can test all of these connections with the ECU UNPLUGGED, so you can access the connection side of the plug without having to cut into the wires. You won't damage anything cranking it with the ECU unplugged. If these connections are all good and yet it still makes no spark, then your ECU is shot.
Question though: By what means did you determine that there is no spark? If you are checking for spark by listening if it "kicks", then that is an invalid test. You need to test both the input and output of the ignition coils manually, with voltmeter, scope, or in the worst case, with a spark plug. Note that the spark plug threads MUST BE GROUNDED in order to obtain spark.
Edit: Also the BLACK wire with RED tracer must be connected to ground. There is a plug on the wiring harness a couple of inches back from the ECU where all the black/red wires are connected together. When you pop the cover off it, you will see a plate connecting all the wires together. Make sure that that is a solid connection to ground.
In order to get spark on this engine, you literally need the following connections made to the ECU:
crank sensor,
+12V,
GRD,
+12V (kill switch circuit).
And that is IT.
You check your crank sensor with a scope or A/C voltmeter, you check your GRD with a DC voltmeter (to + terminal on battery), you check both your +12V lines with a DC voltmeter (to - terminal on battery).
The +12V lines in to the ECU are brown with white tracer.
The GRD line in to the ECU is a thick BLACK wire. The crank sensor lines in to the ECU are a WHITE wire with GREEN tracer and a WHITE wire with RED tracer.
You can test all of these connections with the ECU UNPLUGGED, so you can access the connection side of the plug without having to cut into the wires. You won't damage anything cranking it with the ECU unplugged. If these connections are all good and yet it still makes no spark, then your ECU is shot.
Question though: By what means did you determine that there is no spark? If you are checking for spark by listening if it "kicks", then that is an invalid test. You need to test both the input and output of the ignition coils manually, with voltmeter, scope, or in the worst case, with a spark plug. Note that the spark plug threads MUST BE GROUNDED in order to obtain spark.
Edit: Also the BLACK wire with RED tracer must be connected to ground. There is a plug on the wiring harness a couple of inches back from the ECU where all the black/red wires are connected together. When you pop the cover off it, you will see a plate connecting all the wires together. Make sure that that is a solid connection to ground.
dhkr123
Expert
brian73 said:
The stator is the coil. Around the stator, you have the ROTOR, basically, a flywheel with permanent magnets. The magnets rotate past the coils, generating a voltage differential (A/C), which is transferred up the wire to the RECTIFIER/VOLTAGE REGULATOR, which converts it into DC of a safe voltage level for charging the battery and running accessories and the ECU.
A special, smaller coil on the stator, is the pickup coil. This coil is used to read the POSITION of the rotor's magnets and transfer that information as A/C voltage, to the ECU so that the ECU knows when it should spark. The stator can typically (most engines) be rotated with respect to the crankcase to change the spark timing.
There are no more points. This obsolete mechanical switch rode a CAM in order to time sparks. We now use a pickup coil (applies to RX1) or crank angle sensor (typically a slotted plate with an optical sensor) to trigger a transistor to dump a charged capacitor into the ignition coil.
Damn. I should have paid better in school but the short bus was fun LOL
