Cutting track windows

[DoktorC]

It's a very strange situation...this slider wear vs. track design. A buddy of mine with an 04 RX with the stock ripsaw put on 13000kms on the stock sliders in regular central Ontario snow conditions. I'm not 100% convinced that the closed windows have much to do with the slide wear...as much as setup and riding conditions.

When the predator came out I remember one of the benefits touted by Camoplast was the fact that the closed window kept snow in so the sliders wouldn't wear like previous proaction sleds lol. I think that the primary reason of the closed window is the saved weight but not clipping every bar...

I'm still on the fence.....

 

[RTX Meirda]

I started cutting the closed windows with a knife. It does a great job, but taking forever!

I have about 8 done. I am going to buy a hole saw to do the rest.

 

[**sj**]

did you try the heat,oil or silicone? is your blade new/sharp?

 

[RTX Meirda]

I bought silicone and a new plastic style exactoknife. Maybe I should have bought a steel handled carpet knife? I am trying to do a nice job. 8 windows took 45 minutes.

 

[Iceman57]

You need to use a metal handle razor knife with a new blade. Keep it oiled and score the window, then go back over it a second time with more pressure making the final cut.

 

[sledheadgeorge]

I'm with DoctorC. I think slide wear has to do with snow conditions and set up. Jr's got over 3000 miles on original sliders and they will probbibly go the whole of this season. Cutting wholes I think only saves weight and rotating mass.

 

[Iceman57]

I'm with DoctorC. I think slide wear has to do with snow conditions and set up. Jr's got over 3000 miles on original sliders and they will probbibly go the whole of this season. Cutting wholes I think only saves weight and rotating mass.

Not true. I went through my first of sliders in 185 miles. After I cut the windows, my sled coasted better, there is more snow build-up in the skid and after 1050 miles the sliders still look like new. I rode in poor snow conditions all year so the conditions don't play a factor in the improvements. The majority of the snow gets into the skid via the open windows.

 

[Taz107]

I bought silicone and a new plastic style exactoknife. Maybe I should have bought a steel handled carpet knife? I am trying to do a nice job. 8 windows took 45 minutes.

Use the hole saw, unless you plan on fully clipping it....and even then you you'd just have to square out the corners...which would be alot easier than the full squares....just make sure to get the drum type hole saw with the bit in the middle, not the spade type...hardest part of that is getting the cutout piece out of the bit...

 

[Taz107]

I'm with DoctorC. I think slide wear has to do with snow conditions and set up. Jr's got over 3000 miles on original sliders and they will probbibly go the whole of this season. Cutting wholes I think only saves weight and rotating mass.

Not true. I went through my first of sliders in 185 miles. After I cut the windows, my sled coasted better, there is more snow build-up in the skid and after 1050 miles the sliders still look like new. I rode in poor snow conditions all year so the conditions don't play a factor in the improvements. The majority of the snow gets into the skid via the open windows.

I agree, it's all about friction, plastic on rubber does not slide, snow or no snow, I wish I had taken pictures of the pieces I cutout, to show the plastic from the sliders stuck to them...and stuck almost perfectly centered on the back of the closed windows only...

 

[SharkAttak]

anyone have pic's of there process of doing it, from cutting to burning the corners

 

[RX1-er-2005]

I'm with DoktorC, I'm riding with a identical sled to mine and 1 cut-out all closed windows and clipped them all and I'm all closed/stock.

Both sleds are stock and run exactly same top speed and gas milage...give or take.

We haven't notice any top speed improvement nor gas milage or Hyfax/slide wear, 1 thing we did notice is that their is a bit more snow in the skid.

So I'm kind of on the fence too!

 

[**sj**]

very useful info..I definately have some different ideas on this now..either way I'm cutting...1" or 1.125" hole saw?

I still think the fact the mono skid doesnt have the exchangers dripping on the skid area like the proaction did makes a big difference..

with the proaction machines,one thing I've always done in the past is "season" my slides...heating them up then frosting them in a snow bank "glazing" if you will..

I "season" my slides and belts...even things like pre washing a belt before breakin does wonders...my riding buds used to think I was silly cause I'd scrub a new belt in the sink with dish soap..

 

[DoktorC]

Why don't the exchangers drip on the mono?

 

[**sj**]

what I mean to say...is their location seems further away from the skid ?

 

[fourload]

I haven't cut my track windows but I did put the optional heat exchanger on my GT early last year and it does drip water on the track helping slide wear.I have noticed this while it is idling.It hits the track enough that the water will get pulled into the tunnel and thru the windows when you are cruising. I have 1400 mi on my sled and the sliders aren't even half worn. Some of this was in marginal and hardpack conditions. The rear exchanger also kills that big lump of ice on the back of the sled on cold days.