

jonlafon1
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Good info. What helix you using these days?I tried the black tan briefly.
Was running the black orange at 90.
Belt would slip on top end with black orange.
Black tan would shift too quick down low and mid range without changing anything in primary. It was a tug of war contest with the belt. Would not even rpm. This was at 50°.
I put the black tan back on the shelf.
Didn't have time that day to adjust primary to see if I could get it to work.
Currently running the Thunder Products Orange spring set at 60°.


1nc 2000
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Good info. What helix you using these days?
35 for trail

PowderFalcon
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37/33 helix should not need that much tension even at that tune. I don't run that helix but if i did I would run the black/orange @6/1 and do heat checks on the secondary after a good(WFO) 1/4 mile pull minimum. If its hot go up(twist more) until the temps come down.
Thanks!
What helix and spring combo are you running?


jonlafon1
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straight 38 from BDX. black/orange dalton V2 @6/3. Heavy hitters weights. Nothing wrong with that 37/33. I think maybe you had to much spring with that black/tanThanks!
What helix and spring combo are you running?

PowderFalcon
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straight 38 from BDX. black/orange dalton V2 @6/3. Heavy hitters weights. Nothing wrong with that 37/33. I think maybe you had to much spring with that black/tan
That you sir.
I've also got an EPI purple and TP orange i could play with as well if either of those are better candidates.


jonlafon1
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Maybe mike or someone that runs a 37/33 will chime in with what spring they use and what twist. The black/orange has served me very well and other for many miles on tunes/ I think you may just have to test a little bit.. Always start with the lighter tension and work your way up. You will know when you hit "correct twist" your secondary temps should be able to the touch with hands anywhere on sheaves. One other thing would be your offset? Did the belt blow move your stub shaft? Get offset on point and then test ONE spring and start slightly lower and work your way up in twist.That you sir.
I've also got an EPI purple and TP orange i could play with as well if either of those are better candidates.

PowderFalcon
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Good advice.
My offset is in spec.
Also have the following helix’s that I can try. 35, 41/37, 35/33
My offset is in spec.
Also have the following helix’s that I can try. 35, 41/37, 35/33


jonlafon1
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Maybe stick with that 37/33 or the straight 35. Just one change at a time.Good advice.
My offset is in spec.
Also have the following helix’s that I can try. 35, 41/37, 35/33


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I am currently using a 41-37 with the B/O spring at 90.
I know I am running a smaller tune but I have no slippage and clutches are nice and cool.
Any time I ran anything under 35 deg, I would crush the belt in warmer temps.
I know I am running a smaller tune but I have no slippage and clutches are nice and cool.
Any time I ran anything under 35 deg, I would crush the belt in warmer temps.


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Its been a while since I had yamaha clutches but I never cared for the black orange much. It worked amazingly well for my wife at 6-1 with 35 helix on td powertrail 825 belt. Not so much for me. I always ran black tan at 50 with 35 helix and 825 belt. Clean clutches all the time and nice linear shift and low rpms at slower cruising speeds. Faster on my dragy. At 40 degrees I would slip and blow belts up top. If I didnt go into triple digits ever ,40 would have been fine.


jonlafon1
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Well your welcome to come back to Yamaha clutches anytime! What weights were you pulling with the black/tan/825/stright35? If I remember correctly Daltons? Going to try that spring(3/2) along with TP orange(6/1) and black orange(6/3)out on the lake the day before. Will see which does better on the draggy.Its been a while since I had yamaha clutches but I never cared for the black orange much. It worked amazingly well for my wife at 6-1 with 35 helix on td powertrail 825 belt. Not so much for me. I always ran black tan at 50 with 35 helix and 825 belt. Clean clutches all the time and nice linear shift and low rpms at slower cruising speeds. Faster on my dragy. At 40 degrees I would slip and blow belts up top. If I didnt go into triple digits ever ,40 would have been fine.

PowderFalcon
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Well your welcome to come back to Yamaha clutches anytime! What weights were you pulling with the black/tan/825/stright35? If I remember correctly Daltons? Going to try that spring(3/2) along with TP orange(6/1) and black orange(6/3)out on the lake the day before. Will see which does better on the draggy.
Very interested to hear your results on this test!


jonlafon1
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I will post what I find. I would not take the results to mean a lot as every sled is different somewhat. Gears, track, stud/#/length of studs, helix angles, tunes, clutch weight profile, exhaust, etc. example> My point is just because the black/tan works great for me wont necessarily mean it will work for everyone. Last time I ran testing on lake I actually ran better on a lower HP tune. Go figure!Very interested to hear your results on this test!


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I've been running the black/tan for years. It is my favorite spring and works best at 3-3. (60 degrees)Well your welcome to come back to Yamaha clutches anytime! What weights were you pulling with the black/tan/825/stright35? If I remember correctly Daltons? Going to try that spring(3/2) along with TP orange(6/1) and black orange(6/3)out on the lake the day before. Will see which does better on the draggy.


jonlafon1
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Now your making my head spin! 3/3 ? wow! Just kidding.I've been running the black/tan for years. It is my favorite spring and works best at 3-3. (60 degrees)
I don't doubt it works good for your sled. Not at all. Guessing you put in tons of hours testing to establish this. Thats why its so hard to say xyz works best.. So many variables. What helix you running that twist with? I remember when I was running TP orange @ 6/3 with big helix and guys were like that's insane. IS it? With 200+ studs tuned up? Nope
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