RADNYTROFX
Extreme
I just bought and rode 200 miles on my new fx nytro. i love the sled, but the cornering is off. first i had to crank up the center shock spring and relief the front springs because the darting and ski pressure was really bad. i like less ski pressure overall.
i am 210lbs and ride groomed trails on the aggressive side. when going into a corner this sled getsvery squirrly i think it is diving in the front end but i cant hardden up the front springs or i will get all that skis pressure back.
if my sled is diving in a corner and dartingalot on braking in a corner, what should be done???????
new runners?
new skis?
heaver springs in the front and the center shock spring replaced?
help???? i cant hold the pace anymore with my cat buddie ;-)
i am 210lbs and ride groomed trails on the aggressive side. when going into a corner this sled getsvery squirrly i think it is diving in the front end but i cant hardden up the front springs or i will get all that skis pressure back.
if my sled is diving in a corner and dartingalot on braking in a corner, what should be done???????
new runners?
new skis?
heaver springs in the front and the center shock spring replaced?
help???? i cant hold the pace anymore with my cat buddie ;-)
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
Do some searches, but the first thing to do is take off your skis, & turn the rubber block around that the ski sits on. This will help dramaticly. The next thing would be dooly runners. Another thing you can do but it's gonna cost a little, is have 2.5mm machined off the ball joints.
Look at the very top post, actually a "sticky", titled Front End Mod..results. here in the FX section. You get all the info you need there.
Look at the very top post, actually a "sticky", titled Front End Mod..results. here in the FX section. You get all the info you need there.
gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I have pilot skis.....very light steering, I run zero preload on center spring and its still light.....yes, I'm a wimp, hate sleds that steer like tanks......I came from a REV and its lighter for sure......findng the balance on this sled is a bit tricky.....but worth it when you find it.
Reaper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Squirrelly you speak of is due to the front end geometry being to aggressive (corrected in the 09's) tried and tried (pilot ski, 2.5mm -camber adjustment, spring preload, etc..) with only minor
success in settling this down. Hopefully Yamaha will offer an upgrade to the 09 geometry for the 08's as IMO it is unacceptable for this sled to handle as quirky as it does. BTW, as the ball joints wear (happens very quickly) it gets progressively worse/scary !
success in settling this down. Hopefully Yamaha will offer an upgrade to the 09 geometry for the 08's as IMO it is unacceptable for this sled to handle as quirky as it does. BTW, as the ball joints wear (happens very quickly) it gets progressively worse/scary !
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
The following was copied from a previous post I provided on the subject. I've added to the setup below 6.5" 90-deg (Roetin) carbides on the skis. This setup has worked really well for me this season. I don't run studs on my machine.
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I've found that pulling up the strap in the front by 2-holes and using no more than 1/2 turn of preload on the center spring made all the difference for me. Shortening the front strap pulls up the skid and puts the load toward the rear idlers. The effect of this is to give your sled essentially 3-point contact between the skis and the rear of the track. Race sleds will have the skid pulled up to give about a ¾-inch gap between a hard surface (garage floor) and the transition point where the skid goes from flat to upturned at the front, but this setting is probably too extreme for a trail sled. Going two holes shorter will give you about ¼ to 3/8-inch gap at the transition.
An additional benefit of the shorter front strap is that it will reduce weight transfer to the skid under power so you can get on the gas in a corner without unloading the skis too severely. One more thing; your headlight will stay on the trail and out of the trees at night because the sled isn’t trying to stand up.
Be sure to reset your track tension after shortening the strap.
At the front I run my Floats at 85 psi. I don’t notice the stiffer ride at speed and I appreciate that this setting reduces the tendency of the sled to roll over in the turn. I went to this setup looking for a way to make the RTX turn more like my REV. Now the stock skis actually cut and it’s possible to square off turns and keep the front end working for me in the turns.
*************************
I've found that pulling up the strap in the front by 2-holes and using no more than 1/2 turn of preload on the center spring made all the difference for me. Shortening the front strap pulls up the skid and puts the load toward the rear idlers. The effect of this is to give your sled essentially 3-point contact between the skis and the rear of the track. Race sleds will have the skid pulled up to give about a ¾-inch gap between a hard surface (garage floor) and the transition point where the skid goes from flat to upturned at the front, but this setting is probably too extreme for a trail sled. Going two holes shorter will give you about ¼ to 3/8-inch gap at the transition.
An additional benefit of the shorter front strap is that it will reduce weight transfer to the skid under power so you can get on the gas in a corner without unloading the skis too severely. One more thing; your headlight will stay on the trail and out of the trees at night because the sled isn’t trying to stand up.
Be sure to reset your track tension after shortening the strap.
At the front I run my Floats at 85 psi. I don’t notice the stiffer ride at speed and I appreciate that this setting reduces the tendency of the sled to roll over in the turn. I went to this setup looking for a way to make the RTX turn more like my REV. Now the stock skis actually cut and it’s possible to square off turns and keep the front end working for me in the turns.
RADNYTROFX
Extreme
great replies thanks everyone
yes, the front end rolls in the corner bad. i believe my front limiter strap is all the way loose, first hole. i will move it to the 3rd hole making it tighter.
will this help with darting also, or should i do the front end mod.?
should i keep the rear straps on the first hole?
i am a rev rider also and really miss my light steering and little darting!!!!
yes, the front end rolls in the corner bad. i believe my front limiter strap is all the way loose, first hole. i will move it to the 3rd hole making it tighter.
will this help with darting also, or should i do the front end mod.?
should i keep the rear straps on the first hole?
i am a rev rider also and really miss my light steering and little darting!!!!
Zoggan
Extreme
I'm still in the process of deciding whether to jump from Doo to Team Blue
I thought the 2.5mm mod was supposed to really work well and made the handling more than acceptable. Now I'm not so sure. Everybody here seems very confident that there will be an update. I hope so, that's the only way I'll be on blue next year.
Too bad you didn't come to TY before you bought your Nytro, there is A LOT of discussion on the handling woes of the FX Nytro. Good luck on getting it to handle, I want one so I hope you do!
I thought the 2.5mm mod was supposed to really work well and made the handling more than acceptable. Now I'm not so sure. Everybody here seems very confident that there will be an update. I hope so, that's the only way I'll be on blue next year.
Too bad you didn't come to TY before you bought your Nytro, there is A LOT of discussion on the handling woes of the FX Nytro. Good luck on getting it to handle, I want one so I hope you do!
dirkdiggler
Suspended
RADNYTROFX said:
I spoke with a vary credible person on the site about this issue. What he did was send his fox floats to Hygear. They re-valved them so you use 110 pounds of Air pressure. You would think it would be really stiff but they re-valved he shock and took the stiff shim stacks out so now the shock will actually stroke when you hit bumps. Now you have a shock that won't roll over in the corners but will stroke when you hit a bump. He also has the Extra air cans on his shocks that hy-gear sells.
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Flip the ski rubbers and shim them with a 1/4 under heal of the rubber and its a new sled. Also toes out 1/4" min.
RADNYTROFX
Extreme
man, you guys are great. i will flip the rubbers and shim first. i just dont want to buy new skis yet.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
rimmer
Newbie
5.7 pilot skis with both skags and you can set your sled up anyway you want and it won't dart or jump around on or off the throttle. The steering on mine is very lite. They made a very good sled perfect to me.
Arteeex, I am glad to see that I wasn't one of the only ones to achieve a sweet set up with all the factory parts. I am running basically the same set up as you (plus a couple closely gaurded secrets) and have yet to experience the rideability issues that so many others were having this season. 3256 miles on it and no complaints with ride or handling. Thanks to all who have come up with such great info and ideas all winter. And to those who whinned all winter, well.................................! BTW, I still run the factory ski's, and have the $400 in my pocket.
Snowman07
Expert
RADNYTROFX said:
Zoggan
Extreme
benny said:
Well what the heck??? Is this sled that finicky in setup that 95% of the buyers can't find that sweet spot? Could it be that this is such a vastly different chassis concept from what everyone was used to, that it requires new thinking in the way a sled needs to be setup? I wouldn't think they would behave at all like a traditional sit down sled that most Yamaha owners are used to?
