driveshaft update

[Richard Hodgins]

I have the Barn of Parts drive shaft with the longer collar and set screws. Last year was not a good season to really test it - as it was way too short. But checking it this spring it did not move.

Check this product out. Its a guy in Nova Scotia that machined this solution: Hi Tech Mechanical & Coatings. It is a much more robust concept that supports the shaft with two outer bearings that can be greased. If I were to go back in time I likely would have gone in this direction.

In my opinion:
- tried using green loctite mating the shaft and bearing - that didnt work.
- purchased the wedge that fits into the inside of the shaft to expand it - that didnt work.
- I had the shaft spray welded (to build it up) and a pin put into the shaft and the bearing was notched - after two seasons the pin was sheared off - that didnt work.

My gut tells me that over time the set screws on the BOP bearing may not hold and it may spin. Perhaps the long collar will help prevent that. In any event the Hi Tech solution basically is the best way to support the shaft in a poorly engineered chassis. Its design concedes that the chassis flexes and that shaft will spin on the bearing. So it supports the bearing very robustly and greases it in the event it does spin. In this solution that shaft will never grind away and need replacing. With all the other fixes, soon as that shaft spins, it will keep spinning and need replacing.

If you dont agree with the theory - the chaincase side spins all the time, the only reason it doesnt destroy the shaft tolerance is because its bathed in oil.......... food for thought.
Good luck.
MS

THIS!!!

I've tried all the methods and they all failed, including the latest BOP bearing fix. I am usually a fairly high mileage rider so was able to test all of those methods. Most recently I switched to the Ron Ward Solution. It adds the second bearing, a grease bath as well as adds rigidity to the tunnel. To me it seems like the best solution and have about 5000kms on this setup with NO wear.
I had the original BOP driveshaft saver, and it did start to spin at about 10,000kms. I always re-installed properly and spun the track to align well. I also had the bearing fix one on another sled with a bad shaft. IT lasted about 5000kms then started to spin and took out the shaft...

 

[Turboflash]

Did you try getting shaft welded, then turned and ground to provide a press fit?
I did 3 sleds that way. Each now has over 12000 km with zero issues. None have moved on shaft.

 

[ksiesel]

I'm interested in doing the Hi-tech bearing update on my Viper. I've googled quite a bit and I've only found two places to purchase (TurboDynamics) and Hi-tech's website. In both cases, that means shipping across the border and currency conversion, customs, etc. Pricing was $350CAD + shipping + tax.

Does anyone know of a US based source that sells these kits?

 

[Sevey]

Update - was crawling around under the sled as it looks like the season is pretty much done.
My BOP drive shaft bearing with only 2,000 km; installed on a brand new shaft - has spun.
Yes - set screws were tight
Yes - set screws were loctited when installed.

Thats a kick in the nuts. Pissed off a new shaft will likely have to be purchased. Will go towards the Hi Tech solution next time.
Cha ching on an aging sled. NIce.
MS

 

[Simplespeed]

Reasons like these is why Arctic Cat is up for sale. They never got the concept… You take care of your customers or someone else will .. They were told many times the driveshaft is a bad designed and what did they do? Just kept putting them out the door year after year with same bad design. Its sad really for the customers.

 

[REDLINE 1]

Update - was crawling around under the sled as it looks like the season is pretty much done.
My BOP drive shaft bearing with only 2,000 km; installed on a brand new shaft - has spun.
Yes - set screws were tight
Yes - set screws were loctited when installed.

Thats a kick in the nuts. Pissed off a new shaft will likely have to be purchased. Will go towards the Hi Tech solution next time.
Cha ching on an aging sled. NIce.
MS

How could it spin on the drive shaft if the set screws where tight?

 

[RobX-1]

How could it spin on the drive shaft if the set screws where tight?

One would think that just like the inner race wearing into the shaft, if the set screws were tight but yet spun, then there should be wear marks for them as well.

 

[Turboflash]

How could it spin on the drive shaft if the set screws where tight?

Should see a big groove in shaft made by set screws?

 

[STAIN]

Update - was crawling around under the sled as it looks like the season is pretty much done.
My BOP drive shaft bearing with only 2,000 km; installed on a brand new shaft - has spun.
Yes - set screws were tight
Yes - set screws were loctited when installed.

Thats a kick in the nuts. Pissed off a new shaft will likely have to be purchased. Will go towards the Hi Tech solution next time.
Cha ching on an aging sled. NIce.
MS

This is what I have done after seeing a few of these spin.
Before installation, make SURE the set screws have the ability to go ALL the way through the collar. I have seen more than one where the threads stop and do not allow the screw to make good contact with the shaft. Very important.
I get slightly longer set screws and sharpen the end.
I then drill a dimple in the shaft so the sharpened set screw makes positive contact.
Red loc-tite. I have had a few blue loc-tite screws loosen.
After these steps have been done, the collar seems to work well.

 

[STAIN]

Should see a big groove in shaft made by set screws?

The set screws seem like they tighten but are actually bottoming out on the threads, causing minimal contact with the shaft. Seen it more than once.