driveshaft update

[Richard Hodgins]

I have the Barn of Parts drive shaft with the longer collar and set screws. Last year was not a good season to really test it - as it was way too short. But checking it this spring it did not move.

Check this product out. Its a guy in Nova Scotia that machined this solution: Hi Tech Mechanical & Coatings. It is a much more robust concept that supports the shaft with two outer bearings that can be greased. If I were to go back in time I likely would have gone in this direction.

In my opinion:
- tried using green loctite mating the shaft and bearing - that didnt work.
- purchased the wedge that fits into the inside of the shaft to expand it - that didnt work.
- I had the shaft spray welded (to build it up) and a pin put into the shaft and the bearing was notched - after two seasons the pin was sheared off - that didnt work.

My gut tells me that over time the set screws on the BOP bearing may not hold and it may spin. Perhaps the long collar will help prevent that. In any event the Hi Tech solution basically is the best way to support the shaft in a poorly engineered chassis. Its design concedes that the chassis flexes and that shaft will spin on the bearing. So it supports the bearing very robustly and greases it in the event it does spin. In this solution that shaft will never grind away and need replacing. With all the other fixes, soon as that shaft spins, it will keep spinning and need replacing.

If you dont agree with the theory - the chaincase side spins all the time, the only reason it doesnt destroy the shaft tolerance is because its bathed in oil.......... food for thought.
Good luck.
MS

THIS!!!

I've tried all the methods and they all failed, including the latest BOP bearing fix. I am usually a fairly high mileage rider so was able to test all of those methods. Most recently I switched to the Ron Ward Solution. It adds the second bearing, a grease bath as well as adds rigidity to the tunnel. To me it seems like the best solution and have about 5000kms on this setup with NO wear.
I had the original BOP driveshaft saver, and it did start to spin at about 10,000kms. I always re-installed properly and spun the track to align well. I also had the bearing fix one on another sled with a bad shaft. IT lasted about 5000kms then started to spin and took out the shaft...

 

[Turboflash]

Did you try getting shaft welded, then turned and ground to provide a press fit?
I did 3 sleds that way. Each now has over 12000 km with zero issues. None have moved on shaft.

 

[ksiesel]

I'm interested in doing the Hi-tech bearing update on my Viper. I've googled quite a bit and I've only found two places to purchase (TurboDynamics) and Hi-tech's website. In both cases, that means shipping across the border and currency conversion, customs, etc. Pricing was $350CAD + shipping + tax.

Does anyone know of a US based source that sells these kits?

 

[Sevey]

Update - was crawling around under the sled as it looks like the season is pretty much done.
My BOP drive shaft bearing with only 2,000 km; installed on a brand new shaft - has spun.
Yes - set screws were tight
Yes - set screws were loctited when installed.

Thats a kick in the nuts. Pissed off a new shaft will likely have to be purchased. Will go towards the Hi Tech solution next time.
Cha ching on an aging sled. NIce.
MS

 

[Simplespeed]

Reasons like these is why Arctic Cat is up for sale. They never got the concept… You take care of your customers or someone else will .. They were told many times the driveshaft is a bad designed and what did they do? Just kept putting them out the door year after year with same bad design. Its sad really for the customers.

 

[REDLINE 1]

Update - was crawling around under the sled as it looks like the season is pretty much done.
My BOP drive shaft bearing with only 2,000 km; installed on a brand new shaft - has spun.
Yes - set screws were tight
Yes - set screws were loctited when installed.

Thats a kick in the nuts. Pissed off a new shaft will likely have to be purchased. Will go towards the Hi Tech solution next time.
Cha ching on an aging sled. NIce.
MS

How could it spin on the drive shaft if the set screws where tight?

 

[RobX-1]

How could it spin on the drive shaft if the set screws where tight?

One would think that just like the inner race wearing into the shaft, if the set screws were tight but yet spun, then there should be wear marks for them as well.

 

[Turboflash]

How could it spin on the drive shaft if the set screws where tight?

Should see a big groove in shaft made by set screws?

 

[STAIN]

Update - was crawling around under the sled as it looks like the season is pretty much done.
My BOP drive shaft bearing with only 2,000 km; installed on a brand new shaft - has spun.
Yes - set screws were tight
Yes - set screws were loctited when installed.

Thats a kick in the nuts. Pissed off a new shaft will likely have to be purchased. Will go towards the Hi Tech solution next time.
Cha ching on an aging sled. NIce.
MS

This is what I have done after seeing a few of these spin.
Before installation, make SURE the set screws have the ability to go ALL the way through the collar. I have seen more than one where the threads stop and do not allow the screw to make good contact with the shaft. Very important.
I get slightly longer set screws and sharpen the end.
I then drill a dimple in the shaft so the sharpened set screw makes positive contact.
Red loc-tite. I have had a few blue loc-tite screws loosen.
After these steps have been done, the collar seems to work well.

 

[STAIN]

Should see a big groove in shaft made by set screws?

The set screws seem like they tighten but are actually bottoming out on the threads, causing minimal contact with the shaft. Seen it more than once.

 

[Sevey]

Had issues with my Nytro (likely a warped drive shaft) but it was spinning on that bearing and it didnt matter how tight the set screws were. I even drilled into the shaft with longer set screws that went into the shaft - and it sheared them right off.

As for the sidewinder - ultimately there is just too much play between bearing collar and shaft compounded by a chassis that flexes alot (I am presuming). The set screws on that collar are not that big (dia) so they have minimal bite. They could be twice the diameter to really get into the shaft.

I did test the set screws and they all threaded inboard a fair ways.

I have marked the shaft - where it lined up with the set screw - and it no longer lines up - when I pull it apart in a month or so I fully expect to find a groove.
MS

 

[STAIN]

The set screws on that collar are not that big (dia) so they have minimal bite

That it is why it is ideal to drill a dimple in the shaft through the hole, so the screws bite.
I re-did 2 of these just as described in post #24 above. Marked both shafts to keep track of rotational AND lateral movement. After 800 plus miles, neither has moved.
I am purchasing a new sled tomorrow and will install the bearing from mile 1 as described above. I did so with my 22 and after 5000 miles, no movement.

I have marked the shaft - where it lined up with the set screw - and it no longer lines up - when I pull it apart in a month or so I fully expect to find a groove.

I re-did one where the screws did not go all the way through and the screws were installed into a drilled dimple. The screws felt tight although they had bottomed in the threaded hole, just barely kissing the shaft. You could tell the bearing was skidding because of the loud "clicking" sound the screws made when passing the holes. That is how we found out that it was skidding.

 

[twyztid]

That it is why it is ideal to drill a dimple in the shaft through the hole, so the screws bite.
I re-did 2 of these just as described in post #24 above. Marked both shafts to keep track of rotational AND lateral movement. After 800 plus miles, neither has moved.
I am purchasing a new sled tomorrow and will install the bearing from mile 1 as described above. I did so with my 22 and after 5000 miles, no movement.

I re-did one where the screws did not go all the way through and the screws were installed into a drilled dimple. The screws felt tight although they had bottomed in the threaded hole, just barely kissing the shaft. You could tell the bearing was skidding because of the loud "clicking" sound the screws made when passing the holes. That is how we found out that it was skidding.

What is the point of installing this extended collar bearing on a new shaft? Seems like it would be better to just use the driveshaft saver or a driveshaft saver AND the Hi-Tech Track Shaft Durability Kit for the extra bearing & tunnel strength that it gives.

 

[Sevey]

Had issues with my Nytro (likely a warped drive shaft) but it was spinning on that bearing and it didnt matter how tight the set screws were. I even drilled into the shaft with longer set screws that went into the shaft - and it sheared them right off.

As for the sidewinder - ultimately there is just too much play between bearing collar and shaft compounded by a chassis that flexes alot (I am presuming). The set screws on that collar are not that big (dia) so they have minimal bite. They could be twice the diameter to really get into the shaft.

I did test the set screws and they all threaded inboard a fair ways.

I have marked the shaft - where it lined up with the set screw - and it no longer lines up - when I pull it apart in a month or so I fully expect to find a groove.
MS

 

[STAIN]

I respectfully disagree. Not a fan of the "driveshaft saver"
The BOP on a new shaft would be locked to the shaft, if done as described above.
What does the Hi-Tech set up actually do to stop bearing skidding?
I have never had "tunnel flex" in the brake area in the 5 Po-Cross's that I have had. I think a lot of the "tunnel flex" is due to worn part or "driveshaft saver" installed improperly.
I think the BOP bearing works best on a new shaft if installed as described above. It is defiantly a tighter fit than the stock bearing.
The stock bearing on my sled with 0 miles would slide right off when the shaft was vertical in my hand. The BOP bearing would not.

I am not here to convince people to use one or the other, just sharing my experience's and fixes.