driveshaft update

[Sevey]

What is the point of installing this extended collar bearing on a new shaft? Seems like it would be better to just use the driveshaft saver or a driveshaft saver AND the Hi-Tech Track Shaft Durability Kit for the extra bearing & tunnel strength that it gives.

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By the time I met Ron at the sled show and learned of the Hi Tech product my sled was already back together with the collared-set screw-bearing. It was too late.

This product is not widely known and I have managed to introduce it to a few friends touting its virtue as likely the better solution - Which they purchased and installed.

If I had a time machine - it could have been different. lol.

Technically the collared bearing should work. But there is something about these procross chassis that have issue with flexing - or wanting to flex.

I applaud the guys that had their shaft machined to accept an interference fit with bearing pressed on. I am just a little eerie about having the shaft heated up by a weld for fear it weakens it. And in the future taking it off has all the hallmarks of being a disaster - even with a puller. If that thing is seized on it would be fun trying to yank it off (I can attest to this as years ago I tried green loctite which was lots of fun).
The final question is - if that side of the shaft is rigid with an interference fit and that chassis wants some forgiveness (flex); where does that force transfer - up to the rivets along the bulkhead - will they start tearing there or somewhere else????
MS

 

[STAIN]

I fully expect to find a groove.

Keep us posted. The ones I have seen slide did not groove the shaft, but put a very light witness mark on it.
I wouldn't be surprised if the shaft was salvageable,

 

[STAIN]

I did test the set screws and they all threaded inboard a fair ways

was this done with the bearing in your hand or on the sled?
Before installing the bearing, thread the screws into the collar and make sure they can be threaded all the way out the other side.
If the set screw does not go all the way through the collar, it will not work.
This is the reason the screws do not "bite" the shaft. I have seen this twice on 2 different sleds
You cannot tell this when the bearing is on the sled.

 

[Turboflash]

The spray welding process uses allot less heat than say wire feed or arc. Not enough heat to cause warping on a driveshaft.
About 5 years ago, after a driveshaft bearing failure, I had my trackshaft spray welded, the ground on centers, to provide interference fit for the brake side bearing, and a very close fit for chaincase side. To date, I've had zero issues after almost 7000 miles. Annually, I regrease the brake side bearing. No tunnel flexing on stand and shaft turns freely and easy. Shaft perfectly centered on bearings. No shaft saver required as bearing is pressed on shaft (brake side). Permanent solution. Did not even assemble with loctite. Shaft does not move in bearing. Puller can easily pull caliper & bearing off if desired. I have assembly tools to reinstall. Basically, a very deep socket that barely fits shaft and only contacts bearing on inner race. Works perfect.
IMO, it's how Cat should have designed this.

 

[Sevey]

was this done with the bearing in your hand or on the sled?
Before installing the bearing, thread the screws into the collar and make sure they can be threaded all the way out the other side.
If the set screw does not go all the way through the collar, it will not work.
This is the reason the screws do not "bite" the shaft. I have seen this twice on 2 different sleds
You cannot tell this when the bearing is on the sled.

Thanks for the heads up on this.
I did play around with it on the bench and the screws seemed to thread inboard a fair ways.
MS

 

[Sevey]

The spray welding process uses allot less heat than say wire feed or arc. Not enough heat to cause warping on a driveshaft.
About 5 years ago, after a driveshaft bearing failure, I had my trackshaft spray welded, the ground on centers, to provide interference fit for the brake side bearing, and a very close fit for chaincase side. To date, I've had zero issues after almost 7000 miles. Annually, I regrease the brake side bearing. No tunnel flexing on stand and shaft turns freely and easy. Shaft perfectly centered on bearings. No shaft saver required as bearing is pressed on shaft (brake side). Permanent solution. Did not even assemble with loctite. Shaft does not move in bearing. Puller can easily pull caliper & bearing off if desired. I have assembly tools to reinstall. Basically, a very deep socket that barely fits shaft and only contacts bearing on inner race. Works perfect.
IMO, it's how Cat should have designed this.

Thats awesome.
MS