Nate01
Extreme
Just installed the ecp kit with the cr10ek's....took for a quick spin and seems like it has less power...noticed im down even more rpm's then before...punch it and it hits 9000 and slowly climbs....I want to punch it and hit at least 10,000 or more....when you installed your ecp kit ANYONE...did you re-clutch for the power...? I think im gonna tighten my 2ndary a hole or 2...? Doesnt seems as responsive but I think if I figure my clutching out ill be ok....
Do you have heavy hitter weights installed?
Nate01
Extreme
no....stock clutching....
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
When is the last time you replaced the clutches' springs and took the clutches apart and cleaned them?
The springs typically only perform at their peak for a season or so. Maybe longer if you take them out over the summer.
Have you inspected the roller's and weight's bushings? Are the Primary's Slider's in Spec? Is there any roughnees or abnormal wear in the Primary and Secondary's Center Bushings? Are the Secondary's Ramp Shoes in Spec?
You may see an increase in RPM if you increase the Secondary Spring's twist. But, if the Spring is bad, you will not regain the speed you have already lost. You want that stock Secondary Spring at 60 degree twist to allow the sceondary to shiftout faster (than at 70 twist, etc.).
Changing RPM is a weight adjustment, typically made after you have everything else correct.
The springs typically only perform at their peak for a season or so. Maybe longer if you take them out over the summer.
Have you inspected the roller's and weight's bushings? Are the Primary's Slider's in Spec? Is there any roughnees or abnormal wear in the Primary and Secondary's Center Bushings? Are the Secondary's Ramp Shoes in Spec?
You may see an increase in RPM if you increase the Secondary Spring's twist. But, if the Spring is bad, you will not regain the speed you have already lost. You want that stock Secondary Spring at 60 degree twist to allow the sceondary to shiftout faster (than at 70 twist, etc.).
Changing RPM is a weight adjustment, typically made after you have everything else correct.
Nate01
Extreme
clutches have been cleaned and look good....dont think spring is worn out...stock 2ndary spring is set on 3....im assuming I should be on the 6 (60)..? Im going to give it a twist and try that....
Nate01
Extreme
nevermind....did a bit more reading and now understand....3-3=60deg....6-1=70...ill try that
SnoWarrior
Lifetime Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2005
- Messages
- 436
- Location
- Long Island, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2024 Sidewinder L-TX LE
To get the best of the ECP mod you should do some cluth work to see the most gain. I had the clutch kit first then did the Filters. If you do a search you can find some info on Warrior clutching with stock primary.
I have the Ulmer Stge 2 kit installed and it works very well.
I have the Ulmer Stge 2 kit installed and it works very well.
Nate01
Extreme
Well I set the spring at 70 deg and seems like it may have helped a little in the low-mid range but my rpms are still not high enough....when I squeeze WOT I rev to 9000....and SLOWLY climb to about 10,000 but nothing more.....on an ice road I will get to 10,000 faster obviously and in powder its even worse like 8500 WOT.....maybe I should change out my springs....think im try Silver secondary and the O-S-O primary...might first drill out my tip rivets....need some more rpm's so.....?
After you installed the ECP kit did you tune your carbs? If you did tune your carbs did you get them synced up? I ran mine after I installed it and it ran but not good but I knew Id have to end up getting them synced. I have stock clutching with my kit. Kit is awesome when tuned up and carbs synced. Sounds great with improved throttle response, supertuner has a good thing going here with these kits.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
When you order your new stock springs to replace the new OSO and White springs, you may want to consider ordering some new tip rivets. You will need them, if you drilled them out. Or, ... just pick up some adjustable weights.
I have already been there with the OSO and White. That combination is a belt eater out on the trail. I have also already been there with the drilling of the tips. When I got all done, I bought a Stage II and was really done with it. Much faster and a lot easier to change RPMS with adjustable weights.
Stage II comes with a new helix also. I am convinced it makes the difference that seems to put it all together.
I have already been there with the OSO and White. That combination is a belt eater out on the trail. I have also already been there with the drilling of the tips. When I got all done, I bought a Stage II and was really done with it. Much faster and a lot easier to change RPMS with adjustable weights.
Stage II comes with a new helix also. I am convinced it makes the difference that seems to put it all together.
Nate01
Extreme
So i should prob just opt for a full Umler kit and just spend the money now rather than tinkering with it and never getting what I want....also I have NOT had the carb's synced yet....not sure they can be properly synced with my one carb having an issue missing the o-ring/cast off the back side of the #2 carb....this may be my low rpm's I guess as well?? Seems to run good though and pull hard....just lacking in top end....
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
dont know how bad your carb is but can you silicone it?. the top of the carb must be sealed as vacuum lifts the slides. silicone should work as it never sees any pressure in that area. you have to get this fixed first as you are probably running on 3 cyl. and no clutch kit will ever work.
Nate01
Extreme
IT def running on 4cyl and runs well at that...has great bottom and mid and even top isnt bad...I will easily see over 100mph on the dream-o-meter....just not pulling the 10,200-10,500 that is recommended from other members for clutching...I will go out and try to snap a few pics of my broken carb....Where the O-ring would sit is gone...looks like it may have been dropped from previous owner....it may not be sealing properly either then...
Nate01
Extreme
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
your best bet is to find a set of carbs in the classifieds, any rx 03-05 will work. for now you might want to use some jb weld aluminum to fill in that area, shape and sand it as close to original as possible. other things to check are coils, remove and clean all carbon trace with brake cleaner or similar solvent. also clean foam in airbox as they get belt dust in them. the orange-silver-orange primary spring will also raise the rpm and works well with both stock and aftermarket clutching.
