Electrical help needed.

[WesG]

Killed the battery on my apex due to a short. Found the short and repaired, charged the battery up to 12.8VDC. Killed the battery again while riding. Had to boost it to get it out. Flashed code 46 FI low voltage. Charged battery up again via trickle charger, 2 amps. So I checked the battery voltage again. 12.8VDC when sitting, 12.3-12.6Vdc when running. System appears to not be charging. Stator resistance .3-.4 ohms W-W, but it was -4 Deg's C not 20 like they suggest. Stator VAC when running varies from 30-80 based on rpm. 30 at 1500 rpm and 80 when run up to 8000rpm. Seems to be a linear increase. Voltage reg/rec. 3 VDC at 2000rpm, 5 VDC @ 5000 rpm. What should this be? Cannot find a value for this anywhere. No blown fuses and I cannot find anymore shorts. Are there any other tests I can/need to do to the volt. Reg? I am thinking that the volt. Reg. is not working fully, but I don't have a VDC value to compare to other than its output is approx. 6 VDC and my system is not charging properly.

 

[rxrider]

For how long did you leave your battery charging, it may take a while for a battery to recover fully, if possible that is. Sometimes the battery will not recover. I use the Optimate III, it works well, I sometimes had to charge my bike battery for a week before it fully recovered from a total discharge. C-Tec is also good chargers. You need a charger that monitor the battery while charging, they can often wake a battry up from the dead.

 

[WesG]

Battery Voltage

The battery voltage is 12.7-12.8 after charging it for 36hrs. Starts off at about 2 amps and trickles down to zero when done. Believe the battery to be good. Stator resistance is .1-.2. Checked the resistance with just the mutimeter leads and it is .2 so I am assuming that would be subtracted from the total to get the stators actual resistance. Assuming that, the stator is def. not the problem. Any other way to prove the volt. reg/rectifier??? Got a used one coming as a new one is $$$$ and you cannot return them. Wish I had one to try around here so I knew for sure that was it.

Thanks,
Wes

 

[Len Todd]

What was the original short? Why did it not blow a fuse? Wasn't an unfused helmet shield was it?

IF it drained down the battery and it was after the regulator, then you could have easily fried the regulator.

You should see 13+ volts at the battery when running much over idle. With 30-80 Volts at the stator, the stator should be o.k.

 

[WesG]

Original short

The original short was on the positive lead right where it attaches to the battery post. I am running a BD sidemount and the battery holder is a tight fit to the 90Deg turn that the cables make right there. I rolled it several times down the hill and the strap which holds the battery came off. I did not notice this and the battery bounced around, rubbing the protective layer off the lead, shorting out the positive side. I should have done something about the super tight fit during the install (or not roll over lol) Is there a way to prove that it is the regulator for sure???

Wes

 

[Len Todd]

If you have the correct voltage going in and not coming out, then it is the regulator. It sounded to me like that is what you have.

 

[WesG]

Thanks!

Gota love ty. Only sled forum where you can actually get real help. I am going to replace the main fuse as well, as I believe it should have blown.


Thanks,
Wes

 

[Len Todd]

Glad to be able to help.

 

[WesG]

That would be awesome

I think that the fuse should have gone when the lead shorted out. At least I think that is how it should work... Fuse before ya cook the volt. reg. Although that was not what happened. Fuse is cheap to change anyways and why risk it. And you advisor folks, if your ever around my local, I'll buy the beer and dinner

Wes

 

[Len Todd]

The reason the fuse did NOT protect you was the Fuse was after the short. That is unfortunate. That is one reason why when guys add wires for the heated shield we always tell them to put in a fuse as close to the source as possible.

In this case, the short being close to the battery, the circuit is not yet protected (i.e. the fuse is downstream). Guess you got to quit rolling the thing over. Yamaha only can build in so much protection.

 

[WesG]

tried a different volt. reg.

Was not the regulator.... trickle charge the battery up to 13.2V after sitting for a couple hours. Checked stator resistance again, .2 .2 .3 for the three possibilities. At a super low idle (1000-1200 rpm) I get 17 V-ac off each of the white wires from the stator. Have continuity to the battery across each wire. all fuses are good, the main, fuel system, and all the fuses up by the rad. Start the sled up with VDC on the battery jumper leads, starts at 13.2V and slowly drops. Hit 12.6V in about 15 minutes of trying stuff. Does not seem to change with rpm very much... Like .1VDC. Put my old volt. reg in and started the sled then unhooked the positive lead from the battery and the sled runs. Checked load relay in foot rest and it has continuity, you can hear it click when you put power to it. So battery or stator or short somewhere???? Not really sure what to look for next.

Wes

 

[Yummy]

Is it possible you have a broken wire near the battery, under the relay and/or the connection plugin. Check if all terminals are making proper contact in each of the plugin. It's probably nothing big but it sure hard to find sometime.

Good luck

 

[LazyBastard]

Re: tried a different volt. reg.

Was not the regulator.... trickle charge the battery up to 13.2V after sitting for a couple hours. Checked stator resistance again, .2 .2 .3 for the three possibilities. At a super low idle (1000-1200 rpm) I get 17 V-ac off each of the white wires from the stator. Have continuity to the battery across each wire. all fuses are good, the main, fuel system, and all the fuses up by the rad. Start the sled up with VDC on the battery jumper leads, starts at 13.2V and slowly drops. Hit 12.6V in about 15 minutes of trying stuff. Does not seem to change with rpm very much... Like .1VDC. Put my old volt. reg in and started the sled then unhooked the positive lead from the battery and the sled runs. Checked load relay in foot rest and it has continuity, you can hear it click when you put power to it. So battery or stator or short somewhere???? Not really sure what to look for next.

Wes

So let me get this straight.. it works when you disconnect the battery? Let me guess.. when your battery first became fully discharged, it froze, right?

 

[WesG]

I would assume that it did.

I did not get the charger on it right away so it would have froze. Anyway for me to test the battery? Should the charging voltage still get to ~14 VDC even if the battery is suspect??? Sorry not to up on the elec. sid eof things yet.


Wes

 

[Len Todd]

Take the battery out. Fully charge it, and let it set for a couple hours. Then take it to an auto parts store. They can do a load and other tests on it.

If the battery was fully discharged and left out in the cold, it will freeze. If it freezes, it is no good.

With a good charging system and a good battery, you should see ~13.5 - 14 VDC at the battery at 3,000 RPMs.