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Engine builders, oil system priming

he never had that apart. Just the waterpump cover was off. It sure sounds like the pump took a dump. I have never heard of that on a rx before. I would think if you drained it, and blow air throught he lower oil line out of the bottom of the tank, it would have to force oil out somewhere. Paul
 

Thanks for the picts lakercr, max is right I just needed the waterpump serviced, the inner housing that bolts to the block was cracked and needed to be replaced, how much of the oil pump would they have to remove to just get that? He did not replace the waterpump impeller but that is the only thing.

Just wish I could tell if the pump was turning without pulling the engine.

I'm going to continue drinking heavily tonight....
 
Well, I have a few RX motors apart right now and I'm in the shop. I'll mock up a few scenarios and let you know if it is physically possible to have the water pump installed without correctly making the male/female union between oilpump/water pump.

Not sure how much that helps, but it might rule something out for you.
 
lakercr said:
Well, I have a few RX motors apart right now and I'm in the shop. I'll mock up a few scenarios and let you know if it is physically possible to have the water pump installed without correctly making the male/female union between oilpump/water pump.

Not sure how much that helps, but it might rule something out for you.

If it where me I'd feel better just knowing you now have someone with smarts helping. this is what makes TY great. Maxdlx
 
Lots of guys with smarts were already helping...

The answer is no, you cannot have the water pump seated correctly without having the shaft of the oil pump engaged.

I'm not sure what to tell you, your issue is very unique. It appears that you've done everything that I or anyone else would do to get the pump working. I'll give this some more thought and see if I can come up with another suggestion (short of R&R the engine).
 
Almost wish I could put a external pump on it to get oil through the engine and back to the tank just to make sure there is no blockage. I have yet to get ANY oil out of the return line, zipp...
 
OK, so help me with some detail here. Who removed the engine (sounds like you did) but the dealer did the service to the water pump? If that is the case, and the dealer also installed the pump back onto the engine you should really be looking to them for the fix. There is obviously something wrong with the re-assembly, and if they did the work, they should provide the fix.

How did you determine that the water pump is circulating? I can't imagine that the engine has ran long enough to open the thermostat. Hoses getting hot isn't telling you anything. You could try removing the thermostat and then firing the engine again - you should see good flow through the reservoir. I'm inclined to think that the chain might be off of the water pump sprocket. I know there is enough clearance inside the cases for this to happen and still have all parts install correctly.
 
When I popped the bleed screw on the coolant system it shoots out of there like my viper did when I bled that. I assume its pumping because of this.

Your correct I removed the engine, they fixed the waterpump, I am not comfortable (yet) with the inner workings of a engine to do this myself.
 
I think the oil pump is spinning but wont pull oil. I am with lakercr, good chance the o-ring was forgotten. The o-ring causes a seal and if its not there it wont suck!

One more thing you can do is just double check non of your oil lines are pinched and could be causing it to pressure lock.


Off subject, I tore my oil pump apart just to look at it, I dont think it would be an oil pump. Pretty sure I havent seen anyone say they had an oil pump crap out on them either.

I am guessing the dealer like most have never touch one of those engines, except for chaining oil.

And my offer stands. You can bring it over and I will help you. Then you will see, you can do it yourself!
 
I just called the dealer and they did not even remove the oil pan, all they took off was the outer cover of the waterpump and replaced the seals. the impeller came off but not the shaft that drives both the water pump and the oil pump.

That shaft was NOT removed, the oil pan didn't even come off.

They are calling yamaha for me to see if they can help. He knew of the little pin that goes through the oil pump shaft that drives the inner rotor of the pump and said those never shear off and I didn't mention although I was going to so he seems real knowledgable, he also had a R1 bike do something similar and yamaha gave him a fix but he can't remember what it is so he is calling them.

Thanks guys, and thanks familyman, I will be over if I can get it I just want to cover every option before we tear it out and find nothing wrong!
 
If the oil pump is turning and seals are in place it is a hyd pump and must pump !

Pinched hose , or not turning my guess !
 
Just got a call and yamaha said to dump half the oil into the valve cover and half into the tank, the reasoning is that the pump is dry and cannot suck from the tank. They are primed with grease from the factory to be able to start pumping.

Also said a tech tip for the apex's was to lean them to the right on start up. It cant hurt to put some in the valve cover I do not think. I have stayed away from this because I read that would air lock it even more.
 
Ok they called back again and are going to fax me a tech bulletin with a procedure for how to do this. do not add oil to the valve cover, they want the sled sitting crooked with teh oil tank higher then the engine to let the ait come back through. I will post the procedure when I get the bulletin.

Seems 0007 was right about everything in his post here:

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... irculating
 
Here is the bulletin, note the caution, appears you DO add oil into the engine. :o|
 

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