Engine reinstalled and won't start...any ideas

[stoutner]

Ted, I don't have a dial indicator but, when it was on the bench, all dots were matched up on both cams and crank, and ignition timing mark on magneto was right on the money also. Also, #1 and #4 pistons were at TDC based upon looking at them with the head off. I did have the cam off one tooth when I first installed the chain and one tooth is huge. I moved it the one tooth and got everything lined up before I put the engine in.

Mauri, I checked checked the IAC for obstructions. I put my mouth on the hose and blew air through it. I opened the throttle while blowing and had nice easy air flow through all four throttle bodies. Ialso checked TORS and TPS this morning. They are both good.

Anyone know how I might test the Cam Position sensor. I took it out and put an ohm meter on it last night and tried to see if the ohm reading changed when I put the magnet end near metal. I could not get it to change no matter what terminals I put my leads on. This is probably not how to test it but I thought I'd give it a shot.

Wantboost, Your suggestion with starting fluid is next on my list.

 

[kinger]

Careful the fuel is at 43 psi, make sure your capping it safely or you could have a mess.

 

[wantboost]

don't have to cap anything,disable fuel pump

 

[Skydog]

starting fluid bad stuff!!!!!!!!! just use some gas in a spray bottle........

 

[lakercr]

Any chance you have the #2, 3 plug wires crossed?

 

[stoutner]

I sprayed gas in. It tries to fire but is very weak. #2 and 3 wires are not crossed. They have little numbers on them. #1 is closest to Clutch and they go 1-2-3-4 with #4 being closet to the Magneto side...I assumed.

Is this right?

 

[lakercr]

I sprayed gas in. It tries to fire but is very weak. #2 and 3 wires are not crossed. They have little numbers on them. #1 is closest to Clutch and they go 1-2-3-4 with #4 being closet to the Magneto side...I assumed.

Is this right?

Plugs are wired correctly.

 

[mbarryracing]

wayne, i have a service manual at home in the shop. I can look up the diagnostics on the cam sensor when I get home from work if you need it.

Good feedback on the IAC, you can eliminate that now.

Process of elimination.
Compression check?

 

[wantboost]

ok so whats it trying to tell us.we have spark,we have fuel,timing is right,right?not 180 out right?do we have compression?this is one reason i like carbed motors,takes all sensors out of ?.

 

[stoutner]

Compression test next. Gotta get my hands on a tester later today or tom morning.

Scares me to do that test. If that is bad....gonna go nuts.

 

[Srxspec]

Gauge pod installed so you can see if any codes are flashing? Are all the little shims that sit under the valve "buckets" seated correctly? It sounds like you have a massive compression/valve leak somewhere.

 

[stoutner]

Allen, I'm beginning to agree. The shims were out of one cylinder only. I reinstalled them in the exact same "holes" they came out of because the are different sizes. I checked clearance and they were within spec.

I'll compression test tomorow. Thanks for the info on the cam sensor. I'll check that today.

 

[wantboost]

i was thinking about the valve shims also.don't lose hope.sometimes you need a small step backward for a gaint step forward.lets see what the compression test is.

 

[mbarryracing]

Compression will tell you if cam timing is off also (opening and closing in wrong time per piston position relative to crank angle).
Not sure you'll detect a missing shim on one valve in a multi-valve head with a compression test.

 

[SRX44]

I think I would go back to basics and start with a compression test. You have spark and fuel but without compression its going to do what your describing. This is a good way to verify valve timing, integrety of rebuild and cyl oil seal, maybe washed down. Simple way to get alot of info! Just a thought. Good Luck