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EPS Conversion?

the real trick to doing these kits will be getting parts. Lots of back orders.
I agree, seems to be a serious run for EPS. Glad I jumped on this back in early March.
 

hopefully they conitnue to make them
 
Question: by powering the EPS motor directly off the battery with power and ground running direct between the motor and battery; doesn't that power the motor continuously whether the ignition key is on or off?? Or is there an internal switch in the motor that is connected through the canbus wiring that acts as a switch to kill power to the motor when the key and engine are turned off? Thanks in advance!
 
Question: by powering the EPS motor directly off the battery with power and ground running direct between the motor and battery; doesn't that power the motor continuously whether the ignition key is on or off?? Or is there an internal switch in the motor that is connected through the canbus wiring that acts as a switch to kill power to the motor when the key and engine are turned off? Thanks in advance!
I believe when the key is turned on it energizes canbus and sends power to servo to wake up.
 
The controller has power available but the controller will not deliver power to the motor without there being some input into the bars and as Tom said, likely canbus input.
 
I believe when the key is turned on it energizes canbus and sends power to servo to wake up.
Thank you for responding. I figured it would have to be wired in some way inside the motor to cut power otherwise the battery would be drained. Pardon my electrical incompetence....electrical isn't my wheelhouse! Lol!!
 
Question based on my lack of electrical knowledge: why is it necessary to use an 8 gauge wire to hook up power and ground directly from the battery to the EPS motor?? I ordered in some 8/2 automotive wire from mcmaster carr and it appears to be way oversized for the15324989 seals. Those seals appear to be about maxed out with a 12 gauge wire. Are there any circuits on these sleds that require such a large wire beyond the battery cables themselves? Wouldn't 12awg be enough? Thanks again in advance!
 
Question based on my lack of electrical knowledge: why is it necessary to use an 8 gauge wire to hook up power and ground directly from the battery to the EPS motor?? I ordered in some 8/2 automotive wire from mcmaster carr and it appears to be way oversized for the15324989 seals. Those seals appear to be about maxed out with a 12 gauge wire. Are there any circuits on these sleds that require such a large wire beyond the battery cables themselves? Wouldn't 12awg be enough? Thanks again in advance!
Should be based on the amps the unit draws, I guess the best way to know is what is the size of the wire on a Factory installed EPS? GSE Power Steering kits use 8 GA power. That is how we based our power feed. Better to be a little big then too small.
 
30amps is 8Ga, you might get away with 10 if the jumper is really short but coming from the battery, its should be 8.
 
I have the GSE kit. Bought last September. The fuse holder wire is 12 awg wire with a 600 volt rating. The wire after the fuse holder wire has no marking I could see by spreading the loom that the wires are in but the size is equal to the fuse wire. Certainly not 8 awg. Maybe GSE changed the gauge when the motor used was changed from the earlier kit that had the play in it that several threads have discussed to the newer version that I purchased last September. This is part of the reason I questioned 8 gauge wire along with the connectors being to small to work with a wire that big; the connectors marked as the ones to use from Mouser. As I've indicated...electrical is not my wheelhouse so I'm going off what I'm seeing with what I have. The GSE kit also powers the control module off the 12 awg wire as a footnote.
 
As far as wire size and ampacity goes,

#14 Ga. will pass 15 amps all day
#12 Ga. will pass 20 amps all day
#10 Ga. will pass 30 amps all day
#8 Ga. will pass 40 amps all day

This is standard electrical code stuff.

I find in cars that the wire size is considerably smaller than the code above, ie. using #14 protected with a 20 amp fuse. Could be why there are recalls and cars burning in garages in ignition switch circuits. Anything to make the car cheaper. Fuse size is supposed to protect the wire. With a battery, there is a huge possible fault current available. Like 200 - 300 amps from these little batteries. A short circuit on #14 wire would blow a 20 amp fuse pretty quick. but an overload of say 18 amps, would heat the wire and not blow the fuse.

I bet #12 wire and a 20 amp fuse would run that actuator all day. I would run the black neg. wire from the unit to the starter ground connection where the battery neg. connects, saving 4 ft at least of wire. I would run the red pos in loom to the battery with a 20 amp fuse at the end and connect it to the starting solenoid, battery side. This way there is not an additional wire to have to connect to each battery terminal every time you remove the battery for summer storage.
 
10Ga will pass 30 amps all day long in a DC circuit as long as you are not concerned about voltage drop. If you factor in voltage drop, 10ga is borderline in even very short runs. The break-over point for 30 amps is 15 feet depending on connectors, etc, when you consider targeted voltage drop. If the engineers, who have been counters looking over their shoulders constantly, say its 8Ga, its 8Ga.

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Again, with bean counters looking over their shoulder all day, why is it that you believe the engineers could get away with over-specifying the required current and wire gauge required. You might get away with a 20amp fuse and smaller wire but I guarantee there is a reason that it is being specified that way.
 
Are we not dealing with a 6ft piece of wire here ? What is the size of the positive wire from the battery side of the solenoid to the fuse block ?

It don't look like #10 in my recollection and it runs the entire machine (Viper, 7000).
 


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