Exhaust Donuts & Y Pipes....Step by step

[CaptCaper]

I read the newer (08 up) have a bracket now on exhust pipe. Is this something we can upgrade to or make for 07 back ?

 

[polaris87]

Just figured I'd add to this subject...

I replaced the donuts on my 06 GT. I dreaded the worst but wasn't all that bad really. My buddy has owned a Yamaha's for a couple years and has worked on then a fair bit so we tackled it last Saturday.

The real part I dreaded was getting the allen bolts out of the bracket to hold the y pipes up to the tunnel. Took my time and hit the allen bit socket into the bolt with a hammer to jar it. Broke free easily with a 3/8 drive ratchet. Once I removed the shield above the donuts I found 2 of the clamps loose. These donuts were gone pretty much completely and the clamps were starting to wear into the y pipes. Anyway, we managed to just pull the whole exhuast back enough and tweak it one way or another to get the old donuts out and the new ones in. It was tight, but we did it. Bolted everything back up and what a difference. Sounds like a new machine.

I have a white knuckle muffler on and didn't think the donuts were that bad because the muffler is so loud and raunchy. It sounds like a whole new exhaust with the donuts now fixed. Well worth the time to fix and I even think the engine works better now.

Wasnt too hard of a job just need to take your time so you dont go snapping bolts off and such. We had a few beverages and it only took us about 2 1/2 hours. Well worth the time to fix it. I can see how letting them go too long can cause problems as the clamps on mine were wearing into the y pipes.

 

[actionjack]

I read the newer (08 up) have a bracket now on exhust pipe. Is this something we can upgrade to or make for 07 back ?

I know Travis posted this about takeoff pipes on 08 and later so I looked in the fiche and I don't see those parts he's talking about. Maybe he can post a pic of one of those silencers with the added mounting hardware.

 

[CaptCaper]

I just did mine for the 2nd time. 1st time the Allen head's came right out. This time didn't want to come. Stripped it. Took advice from fellow TY'r. Got the heads super red with Map/Ox torch from Lowes. Pounded in a Torx and it wrenced right out. I'm replaceing with a SS Hex but I wonder if it should be a Grade 8 Hex due to the heat and or difference in metals.?? SS Hex is A2-70 hardness. The strongest Metric I could find local was an 8.8 which is near Grade 5. Both of these are close. SS is 100NM less so I went with SS. But They sell Allen 12.9 grade which I was thinking of using. This strong grade would hold up to the heat and will help keep the head from stripping. SS is soft..it might snap off..
Also I left the front bolts in the skid only this makes it very easy. My whole exhust came apart. I found I had to take the flex manifolds off to get the Y pipes to be able to slide and clear the hanger brackets for them. No big deal I wanted to check the Flex manifolds for cracks as well..
My SS y pipes the have 5 k miles now still look great. Donuts were worn down so there was only a knife edge on one of them and the others not far behind. Clamps were loose and couln't tighten them. Put the Coppers in and what a difference.

So many guys struggle with these Allen head exhust bolts. This is a simple solution. No grinding,banging of knuckles.
Home Depost sells a kit that uses Map gas and Oxgen that will heat up the bolts Cherry Red. When it's Cherry put the wrench to her. This will loosen them. If the Allen head is already stripped take a Torx ( and pound it in while cherry( and it will grab and turn it free.. I know the kit costs but you'll use it for years freeing up rusted bolts believe me.
For the replacement Allen head I used 12.9 grade tempered Deep Allen head. Any good hardware store sells them. M8 is the size. It's less likely to strip next time. But still use heat to be sure. Don't use SS as it's soft and may snap.

 

[Capt.Storm]

You can also weld some nuts to the top of them.

 

[Coach]

I just replaced them this week. Note that when you buy the new doughnuts from Yamaha they come with an new bolt for the clamp. So screwing up the old bolt is not an issue.
I soaked the bolts with WD40 overnight and put the vice grips to them next day. Out they came no issue.

After about an hour of trying to get the Y pipes far enough back to slide to new doughnuts in I decided ti drill out the rivets on the cross brace for the pipes. Once done everything slidesback and out of the way. 20 minutes later everything installed and rivets back in. Simple!!

Has anyone considered just shortening the pipes coming off the engine? It seem that they extend into the Y-pipe far enough. All you would need to cut off is 1/4" and the doughnuts would slide right by.

 

[rlbock]

Y pipe R&R

What a job, did two sleds this week end, one needed new pipes as flanges were wore thru, this one had 5300 miles. The 5mm button head bolts that hold the Y pipes to the bracket are a real bitch to get out, drilled the heads off then ended up drilling the rivets out and removing the bracket from the sled so we could remove the remaining bolts that were seized in the bracket.. Didn't try the Torx idea.

Two new ideas!
1. We also decided to wire the Y pipe clamps to each other to keep them from turning. We thought this might keep the clamps from wearing thru the flanges if and when the donuts begin to fail again.

2. We also filed the edges of each clamp to soften the sharp edges that exist on each clamp, we thought it would keep the clamps from cutting thru the titanium as easy.


Big tip!

When you have to change the Y pipes to separate the Y pipes from the main muffler pipe it helps a lot to heat the area where they are joined. You can heat them through the hole where the clamps are accessed.

Biggest tip!

Before you try to install the Y pipes back into the main pipe you need to spread the pipe flanges out so you can get the Y pipes pushed all the way in. Once you have spread the flanges test fit the Y pipes before trying to do it in the sled. If the Y pipes still don't push in all the way you need to wobble the Y pipes in to spread this area out even more, otherwise it will be a bitch to get them together in the tunnel.
This is a must.

Good luck, keep the swearing about how stupid this whole set up is to a minimum,
the engineers have big egos

 

[mr. shide]

I just replaced my donuts. 4000 miles. They were t horrible but did need to be replaced. All pipes looked good from what i could see and feel. I took the flex pipes out. Replaced everything and clamped and tightened everything up snug but i still couldnt quite stall the engine with the rag test in the exhaust tips. A few years ago back when the sled had 3000 miles i could barely stall it but i cant now even with new donuts. It almost dies but not quite. Not sure why that is. Oh well. I lubed and never seized the hell out of all bolts so if i or the next owner has to ever replace the donuts it shouldnt be too big a deal. I had the allens come right out and saw no wear on the clamps or pipes.

 

[Sled Dog]

Did the 05 RX1 following the write up Mr Sled wrote up and things went very well. I do nt know why Yamaha would not just use copper donuts. Thanks Ian for another very good product I did grind a bit off the clamp just to tighten thnngs up a bit more and used Kopper Kote anti sieze on all threaded bolts. My 04 is not leaking but I am changing them anyway seeing as I am going to be working on the steering slop in the steering blocks.

 

[Sled Dog]

Well I did the starter clutch and installed the starter saver at the same time. I also installed a fused power point on the 05 rx1 as well. Starter is now working first time every time. The starter saver is real cool also and very easy to install Thanks again Ian. Now i just have to fix the reverse handle.

 

[Crewchief47]

 

[Murse]

Changing donuts today after work hopefully fixes everything and hopefully I don't have a broken y pipe. I just want to ride and do not want any more surprises.

 

[Murse]

Changed donuts and fixed temporarily for rest of season with copper exhaust gasket maker lots of snow here do not want to waste any more time this fix will be much better than it was. I am disappointed with Yamaha for this Ypipes cracking issue I love them but this is very disappointing. Will be ordering stainless excell for next season will install as summer project. Excited to get back on trail with this fixed I',m sure I will get much better performance and gas mileage. Anxious to go out tomorrow. Thanks for this sticky! helped a lot. P.S. anyone with an Apex when you get to 6 or 7 k check these donuts. There is evidence on mine that the donuts have been gone a while and cause my Ypipes to crack. There is burnt marks on insulation and frame indicating an exhaust leak that has been ongoing for a while. Wish I would have caught it sooner but header is coming out of this and hopefully I'll see some gains.
http://i49.tinypic.com/ofzkgw.jpg[/IM
[img]http://i49.tinypic.com/f44r9t.jpg

 

[Murse]

how are the flex pipes and whole exhaust for cracks and damage? should I change these too? order a whole exhaust stainless plus new flex pipes or stick with stainless y pipes and copper donuts only?

Temporary fix did not work must be another crack in y pipe so I ordered oem stainless update y pipes from dealer and copper donuts from sled toys. Warm weather here snow melting so it is a good time to take apart and fix.

 

[Frozenstiff]

I didn,t think your temporary fix would work. Mine broke in the very same place.
Get the MBRP pipes in 2 days, and get back on the trails. Mine sound awesome, and helped get rid of the drone as well.