FAQ: How To - DriveShaft/JackShaft bearing"REGREASE" Step by step

[favarcat]

Remove bolt with 14mm wrench on end of secondary and slide off. Keep track of washers where they go.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

trying to get up to date with this maitance and hopefully i will be as knowledgable as some of u guys, but i think you guys have great threads but leave off some important details for us youg guns like my self, .LIKE STUPID QUESTION BUT HOW DO U PULL THE SECONDARY CLUTCH OFF. TO DO THISA BEARING WORK

wow,you must not have read the post...LOL....i specifically wrote to remove 14mm bolt,and to keep shims in proper order....you gotta read alittle too!..lol

Dan

 

[sledneck22]

I just did this to my sled tonight. I have a special little tool that makes greasing the bearings a breeze. Basically a needle witha grease zert.
I also added a few other pictures of what my process looked like.

 

[apltx08]

The SPEEDO bearing should be removed every year or two and sand off rust and use ANTISEIZE on end of shaft or else it will RUST on and what a job to remove afterwards, we had to take appart the hole chaincase on a badly rusted to get a PULLER on bearing...and 1 very IMPORTANT thing to do is make sure to LOCTITE the SET SCREWS or you will lose them...and don't over tighten them they break and I've also seen broken collars as a result of over tightening.

 

[yamahamaniac]

On the first page people asked how hard it is to remove the jackshaft bearing. This is a tapered bearing and it has a tapered spacer between it and the shaft. I blew this bearing to pieces last winter and we had to take the entire chaincase apart to get the shaft out. Then to outsidepart of the bearing was still stuck to the metal surrounding the shaft. It was an awful job to replace the bearings. All of the bearings were gone so idk about anyone else but in my mind those bearings in the chaincase that are bathed in oil all the time are not safe. I've seen a ton of people saying these bearings stay good as they are always bathed in oil but all of them were getting pretty rough on mine when I took the chaincase apart. The bearing on the speedo is awful for rust. There was only about 7300 km's on my RX mtn when this all happened. After seeing this post I will definately be doing that procedure this spring when I get ready to let her finally have a break for the summer.

 

[apltx08]

All of the bearings were gone so idk about anyone else but in my mind those bearings in the chaincase that are bathed in oil all the time are not safe. I've seen a ton of people saying these bearings stay good as they are always bathed in oil but all of them were getting pretty rough on mine when I took the chaincase apart.

1 thing a lot of sled owners seem to overlook is the chaincase OIL, your running a lot of horsepower in 8.5oz/250ml of oil that is not getting FILTERED nor COOLED threw a bunch of gears, bearings, chain that depends on a good quality clean oil that takes a hole lot of BEATING, heat, mositure etc...I know of a lot of sledders that never CHECK oil or chain tension nor CHANGE their oil! it only takes a few minutes to do and a few dollars to change, I change mine every 1000 miles/1600 kms and check level before every ride, so far so good.

 

[yamahamaniac]

Yes sir I can totally see the logic there. It's a decent while to change the oil of the chaincase in my Rx mtn though. It's so hard to let the reverse go. You needs some small set of hands on ya and I got big paws so it's a real job. Other than that it isn't that bad, let go the brakes and a couple bolts, drain, then slap back together and put more oil in, not bad haha.

 

[Bob Miller]

All of the bearings were gone so idk about anyone else but in my mind those bearings in the chaincase that are bathed in oil all the time are not safe. I've seen a ton of people saying these bearings stay good as they are always bathed in oil but all of them were getting pretty rough on mine when I took the chaincase apart.

1 thing a lot of sled owners seem to overlook is the chaincase OIL, your running a lot of horsepower in 8.5oz/250ml of oil that is not getting FILTERED nor COOLED threw a bunch of gears, bearings, chain that depends on a good quality clean oil that takes a hole lot of BEATING, heat, mositure etc...I know of a lot of sledders that never CHECK oil or chain tension nor CHANGE their oil! it only takes a few minutes to do and a few dollars to change, I change mine every 1000 miles/1600 kms and check level before every ride, so far so good.

I broke my driveshaft on my 04 Warrior with 10K miles on it and the bearings were like new when I took it apart, and I was surprized to see the drive chain had virtually no stretch.
When I ordered the drive shaft, I also got a new chain and all the bearings and seals, so I changed them all while I had it apart.
I change this oil every season with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90 and adjust chain tension on a regular basis. The bearings on the clutch side (driveshaft and jackshaft) still original and in good condition (although I changed them) regularly lubricated with Amzoil Synthetic Waterproof Grease.

 

[wreckdiver]

Just did this to my new to me RX 1. I found that after washing the bearings out with WD 40, if I used a strong jet of compressed air blowing into them, and a paper towel to catch the crap that flies, I got alot more of the nasty stuff out. THANKS for this maintenance tip!!!

 

[rxrider]

wreckdiver - welcome to the site and thanks for the tip on using WD40

Would you please add your location in your userprofile, it's a site requirement.

rxrider
TY Management

 

[savan2000]

what are the torque numbers to put the covers back on the jackshaft and driveshaft after greasing

 

[rxrider]

Savan2000
Chaincase side or clutch side?
Not 100% sure of what you're asking?

 

[Roger]

So, is there a shortcut to changing the jackshaft bearing at the secondary, or does the chaincase have to come apart?

 

[rxrider]

The jackshaft doesn't have to come off.

- Remove secondary clutch
- Unscrew stop nut on the jackshaft, on the inside of the frame behind the secondary
- Remove the coned metal part in the center of the bearing, tap it out to the left hand side of the sled
- Remove the bearing, tap it out to the left, it helps heating the bearing cup in the frame, when the aluminum heats it expands making it easier to pop the bearing.

When installing the new bearing it will be a lot easier if you put the bearing in the freezer, heat the bearing cup, get the bearing from the freezer and pop it in, it should go in real easy. If you have to tap it, tap on the outer race of the bearing until the bearing is perfectly seated in the bearing cup.

 

[Roger]

I figured it could be done, somehow, this way, without taking everything apart. Thanks for the info. Will attempt in a few days.