FAQ: How To - DriveShaft/JackShaft bearing"REGREASE" Step by step

[xcsp]

Just to add that a good time to do this maintenance is right after the riding season-get the moisture (water) & whatever else out before it has time to damage the bearings, and then it's ready to go for the next season!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Just to add that a good time to do this maintenance is right after the riding season-get the moisture (water) & whatever else out before it has time to damage the bearings, and then it's ready to go for the next season!

GOOD POINT....springtime is best time to do this for sure,and also changing your oil in motor too!....always best is before shes put to bed for summer.

Dan

 

[SledFreak]

Dan, Can you just change the driveshaft bearing right there or is there alot more to it then that?

well YES and NO....

you do need to do all the above PLUS you need to get underneath,and at the set screws,as mentioned above....they are not the simplest thing to get at sometimes....but can be removed,then the bearing SHOULD slide off the end of shaft.....

the reason I say "should" is because ive seen them where they are RUSTED onto the shaft pretty badly...and can be a real prick to get off....

That is why I wanted to post this....My thinking here is if you do this once every season,or whenever you FEEL its needed,you shouldnt ever have to actually change the bearing for a long long time....

the time to do this was VERY QUICK....once you got the secondary off,its a matter of minutes only to pull cover and clean/grease her up....I did both bearings and had all back together in less then 15 minutes....youll never change out a bearing that fast.

I just used the same low temp synthetic grease that is in my gun,that i would use on skid ect.

Dan

Dan so the set screws are in the bearing and go right through into the shaft. I looked under my sled tonight and I could see the set screws, but was wondering if they look like they are part of the bearing? What am I looking at?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

yeah there are two set screws on the collar that hold bearing in place on shaft....you need to loosen them to slide bearing off end of shaft.....sometimes easy,sometimes not so easy....depends if they are rusted ect.

Dan

 

[favarcat]

Dan so the set screws are in the bearing and go right through into the shaft. I looked under my sled tonight and I could see the set screws, but was wondering if they look like they are part of the bearing? What am I looking at?

They are part of the bearing, but it isn't just a normal bearing. It has a collar attached to it where the set screws go into. That's what you are seeing. If you are going to change the bearing, it's good to spray the set screws and bearing on the shaft with some PB blaster the day before.

 

[pat the rat]

did the same job on my warrior before season started,just out of curiosity,why do you take the snap ring off,is the apex different from the warriors cuz i didnt have to take mine off,by the way,great post,its posts like this that can save alot of downtime

 

[favarcat]

I didn't take mine off the Attak either. There's enough room to slide it out.

 

[Bob Miller]

Good instructions and pics Rocker

I have been doing this for the past 4 years on my 04 Warrior and I now have 9400 miles on the original bearings and there still looking good
I use Amsoil Waterproof Synthetic Grease. I don't remove the snap ring or the gear, I do both the jackshaft and driveshaft bearings after each week long trip I take.

I would like to know if anyone knows where I can purchase NEW SEALS for both bearings, I would like to replace them as they have seen better days

I also recently checked the Chain Case side and found the original bearings looking like new with plenty of lubrication. I use Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic and change it every season! You have to be very careful putting the Reverse mechanism back together FOUND THAT OUT!!!

Staying on the topic of longevity, I have the original Battery in my Warrior, its always hooked up to a Battery Tender and its still in good shape. I have a back up system if the Battery fails when I go on my week long trips to either Quebec or Maine. I have the original Battery out of my 1998 Suzuki 1500 LC which I replaced a few years ago and the damn thing is still good! Amazing!!!

I will have this available and if there is an issue, I have a set up (temporary) for this battery to be held into the tool box in the front of the machine with connectors to tie into the external cables coming off the existing machine battery.

Why even bother you say? I don't want to get involved with taking that damn air box off in -10 degree weather and since that 10 year old Suzuki battery is still good because of the Battery Tender, I'm curious how long the original Warrior battery will last

Why not get your money's worth if you can fix it yourself anyway

 

[ROCKERDAN]

great input guys....

On the APEX,the snap ring had to come off...if you try to remove the cover with snap ring on the jackshaft,it would be a very tough squeeze to work the cover off IMO....possibly it can be done but defintilely easier with snap ring removed...only take a second to pop snap ring off....

i think you guys with RXs and warriors have a different setup here,and with apex snap rings should come off.

nice to hear with doing this seasonally we can pile miles onto these bearing without having to replace....just like a trailer wheel bearing,if you keep em greased they will last many many miles!

we got pounded with another foot snow here last night again!..so Im off to ride!

Dan

 

[SharkAttak]

Thanks ROCKERDAN, bearing are as good as new again, your post with pic's was a great help, I probably wouldn't have tryed, but the step by step process made it real simple 20-25 min job, next time probably less, thanks again

 

[VT_BluYamaha54]

yeah there are two set screws on the collar that hold bearing in place on shaft....you need to loosen them to slide bearing off end of shaft.....sometimes easy,sometimes not so easy....depends if they are rusted ect.

Dan

IMHO, this is a great reason to remove (rather than just grease) the track drive bearing at least every other greasing cycle. If you take it off, you can keep the setscrews "moveable" as well as making sure the collar doesn't seize to the driveshaft.

I would also recommend putting a bit of loctite "blue" on the setscrews when putting them back to prevent them backing off.

P.S. IMPORTANT: the setscrews are TORX not Allen!!

Also, by using a needle tip on your grease gun it makes it easier to get the grease deep into the race on the bearings instead of just around the edges.

Good Post Dan!

 

[ZR800EFI]

great input guys....

On the APEX,the snap ring had to come off...if you try to remove the cover with snap ring on the jackshaft,it would be a very tough squeeze to work the cover off IMO....possibly it can be done but defintilely easier with snap ring removed...only take a second to pop snap ring off....

Dan, when I did mine a few months ago, I didn't take the snap ring off either, as a couple others mentioned. The cover still came off quite easy, and just be sure when putting it back on that you place it under the little tabs of the snap ring first.

But, as you said, it's two seconds to pop the ring off anyway. Great post!

 

[Mighty]

When I replaced the track on my Rage that damn bearing did not want to come off. Reason was the set screws were so tight they dug into the shaft which put marks on the shaft that physically held the bearing in place
So if you do remove the bearing don't tighten down those set screws too tight

 

[Ported Hornet]

Thanks Dan,

I will have to check and regrease mine!

 

[apexgt4life]

trying to get up to date with this maitance and hopefully i will be as knowledgable as some of u guys, but i think you guys have great threads but leave off some important details for us youg guns like my self, .LIKE STUPID QUESTION BUT HOW DO U PULL THE SECONDARY CLUTCH OFF. TO DO THISA BEARING WORK