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First ride with disturbing find...

Doc Harley

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Oct 17, 2016
Messages
3,636
Age
56
Location
Here & there
Country
USA
Snowmobile
'17 Sidewinder LTX SE
Any speculation as to why I would have moisture in my oil level site tube?
IMG_20221220_094757549_copy_1536x2048_1.jpg
 

Temp changes. This happens.. All good,,,, when you start it always bring all the way up to temp 170+ before shutting down.. That moisture will get burned up.. If you run a bypass you see the moisture come out the bypass and freeze on the end of bypass hose.. IMO what your seeing is normal..
 
Temp changes. This happens.. All good,,,, when you start it always bring all the way up to temp 170+ before shutting down.. That moisture will get burned up.. If you run a bypass you see the moisture come out the bypass and freeze on the end of bypass hose.. IMO what your seeing is normal..
Right on....I've definitely started the sled more times this season and not exactly warmed it up as usual.

Thanks Jon
 
My thoughts knowing a little about oil. This is the main reason I haven't removed the bypass valve. Syn. oil is known to draw moisture, so by removing the ROV you open the oil tank to outside air. (humidity) Moisture and syn. oil mix to form acids which I don't want on the inside. Yamaha recommends using a semi syn. and I wonder if part of that reason is to reduce the moisture draw. If I removed the ROV I would find a way to plug that 5/8 hose in the off season. Yes, heating up the engine will vaporize the moisture out, but not until it is up to full temp. Maybe I'm overly paranoid....
 
Right on....I've definitely started the sled more times this season and not exactly warmed it up as usual.

Thanks Jon
Be careful starting and not bringing to temp.. Can cause spark plug issues and condensation in many areas. I usually bring up to the 180's - 190- IF i know im shutting it down(like doing a track alignment in garage on stand).. But ideally start and run down trail for a good time to get oil up to temp and burn up moisture from temp changes.
 
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My thoughts knowing a little about oil. This is the main reason I haven't removed the bypass valve. Syn. oil is known to draw moisture, so by removing the ROV you open the oil tank to outside air. (humidity) Moisture and syn. oil mix to form acids which I don't want on the inside. Yamaha recommends using a semi syn. and I wonder if part of that reason is to reduce the moisture draw. If I removed the ROV I would find a way to plug that 5/8 hose in the off season. Yes, heating up the engine will vaporize the moisture out, but not until it is up to full temp. Maybe I'm overly paranoid....
I'm with ya. I just did the ROV delete last week, to be completely transparent. And started to wonder along those lines.
 
Be careful starting and not bringing to temp.. Can cause spark plug issues and condensation in many areas. I usually bring up to the 180's - 190- IF i know im shutting it down.. But ideally start and run down trail for a good time to get oil up to temp and burn up moisture from temp changes.
Jon, always....this year is a little different as I keep checking and changing track tension. All in all tried to be patient and let it run to 160°. Just not hot enough.
 
Use a quality oil and get your sleds up to temp always. Enjoy. Don't over think these things to much the bypass has been removed for thousands of miles by many members here.. We would have heard if it was a issue.. I still remember 2017 when my oil tank seal blew out onto my boot at a couple hundred miles. Ended that trail ride day.. Not a great memory.
 
My thoughts knowing a little about oil. This is the main reason I haven't removed the bypass valve. Syn. oil is known to draw moisture, so by removing the ROV you open the oil tank to outside air. (humidity) Moisture and syn. oil mix to form acids which I don't want on the inside. Yamaha recommends using a semi syn. and I wonder if part of that reason is to reduce the moisture draw. If I removed the ROV I would find a way to plug that 5/8 hose in the off season. Yes, heating up the engine will vaporize the moisture out, but not until it is up to full temp. Maybe I'm overly paranoid....
While I've never experienced a problem with the ROV, I think the delete process outweighs keeping it.
 
I did invest in the ROV bypass from BOP (Travis) and a tank seal. I feel right now this is the best way to protect against all of the potential issues. The only engine opening is the top cover vent going into the air box while not running.
 
Before my rov delete i ran an oil seperator/ catch can setup, one ride of 100 to 150 miles would fill the can with mostly moister and oil vapor, had to drain after each ride, about a cup full.
 
Geez.... You guys really split atoms over this, non issue and rest easy.
ROV delete is actually a preventative/avoidance of reclaimed oil vapours being reintroduced into the intake system.
Just don't look under your oil filler cap on the valve cover of your vehicle on a cold morning start up, you will loose sleep for a month..... Lol
 
If you can find somewhere to purchase BG products MOA oil additive all the moisture will be gone.
 
Geez.... You guys really split atoms over this, non issue and rest easy.
ROV delete is actually a preventative/avoidance of reclaimed oil vapours being reintroduced into the intake system.
Just don't look under your oil filler cap on the valve cover of your vehicle on a cold morning start up, you will loose sleep for a month..... Lol
Oh s***!!! Where is that located? Easy bud, just playin'
 
Oh s***!!! Where is that located? Easy bud, just playin'
As much as I would like to respond to your reply, I will bite my tongue.... And exercise a level of professionalism.....
Cheers
 


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