kinger
VIP Member
Just FYI on these 2 octane boosters.
Torco
Via phone call, they told me unopened product has a 5 yr shelf life. Opened product should be good for 2-3 months if sealed in original container. Blended gas in tank should be ok for 4 weeks (same as premium unleaded gas). Easy to see if product is good - pour into clear glass container. It should be clear to light amber color. If it look darker like tea or coffee, its bad.Still waiting for answers from Amsoil, and Lucas. VP not an option for me due to higher cost and limited availability.
4 weeks??? I store mine with non-oxy premium each year thinking it has 4 years not 4 weeks. On my built 400+hp Apex I am relaying on Torco + 91 trail gas as the build, not insurance, reading makes me think I am creating an octane monster that I will have to be more aware of. The Motec will control knock but I still don't want it knocking ever, I may have to soften my goals and aim more like 350, and the first tank in the fall I need to be careful of.
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My experience...
And I have used a lot of different race fuels..... MR8, C14+, MR9, Import, C-16, C-12 and 113. Race fuels are finicky and can cause a huge headache if you aren't using the correct fuel.
Torco Fuel Accelerator is the only octane can I will put in my trail sleds. It is by far the best way to eliminate knock codes and get better octane ratings from piss-poor pump fuel.
I have a RVP tester (Reid Vapor Pressure) for fuel. This was given to me at an asphalt race for helping out on clutching.
New, sealed cans of race fuel can go bad and I have even had to have 1 of the fuel companies send me out a 5 gallon can of fuel next day air so I would have it. It happens.... but it seems to happen way more than we think.
The best way of keeping fuel fresh is to use Fitch fuel catalysts for storage. When I ran my SRX on asphalt, (2005 till 2017) I needed to have fuel tested all the time. One race I had to open a new pail of fuel as I was going rounds in eliminations. Immediately after I opened the new pail and mixed fuel for the sled, the sled sounded weird and I lost the next round cause I couldn't run my dial-in. Thought I did something to the engine and when everything checked out good with the engine, I had the fuel tested....dead as a doornail. This is when I had to have a 5 gallon pail sent to me next day air so I could race for my sponsors. Another new can of fuel which tested out good and the SRX was rockin again! Now, every new pail gets tested before it goes into the sleds.
This is from a FB user that received 2 new cans of race fuel, to find out the fuel is bad. The fuel was manufactured September of 2020.
"I received two sealed pails of C10 Saturday at DynoTechResearch (spec fuel for flat track motorcycle racing), both filled at VP in TX on 9/10/20. Here is the RVP of pail one, which was chock full meaning it was completely devoid of its most volatile chemicals—dead when filled at VP with zero RVP instead of 4.04psi. So assuming that the second pail is as dead as the first, I’m leaving that one sealed and plan to bring it to the local Bureau of Weights and Measures who has expressed interest in testing the RVP themselves and following up on it. This may be the only way to get the attention of blenders and re-packagers of expensive race fuel and coerce them into delivering properly volatile fuel to consumers."
And I have used a lot of different race fuels..... MR8, C14+, MR9, Import, C-16, C-12 and 113. Race fuels are finicky and can cause a huge headache if you aren't using the correct fuel.
Torco Fuel Accelerator is the only octane can I will put in my trail sleds. It is by far the best way to eliminate knock codes and get better octane ratings from piss-poor pump fuel.
I have a RVP tester (Reid Vapor Pressure) for fuel. This was given to me at an asphalt race for helping out on clutching.
New, sealed cans of race fuel can go bad and I have even had to have 1 of the fuel companies send me out a 5 gallon can of fuel next day air so I would have it. It happens.... but it seems to happen way more than we think.
The best way of keeping fuel fresh is to use Fitch fuel catalysts for storage. When I ran my SRX on asphalt, (2005 till 2017) I needed to have fuel tested all the time. One race I had to open a new pail of fuel as I was going rounds in eliminations. Immediately after I opened the new pail and mixed fuel for the sled, the sled sounded weird and I lost the next round cause I couldn't run my dial-in. Thought I did something to the engine and when everything checked out good with the engine, I had the fuel tested....dead as a doornail. This is when I had to have a 5 gallon pail sent to me next day air so I could race for my sponsors. Another new can of fuel which tested out good and the SRX was rockin again! Now, every new pail gets tested before it goes into the sleds.
This is from a FB user that received 2 new cans of race fuel, to find out the fuel is bad. The fuel was manufactured September of 2020.
"I received two sealed pails of C10 Saturday at DynoTechResearch (spec fuel for flat track motorcycle racing), both filled at VP in TX on 9/10/20. Here is the RVP of pail one, which was chock full meaning it was completely devoid of its most volatile chemicals—dead when filled at VP with zero RVP instead of 4.04psi. So assuming that the second pail is as dead as the first, I’m leaving that one sealed and plan to bring it to the local Bureau of Weights and Measures who has expressed interest in testing the RVP themselves and following up on it. This may be the only way to get the attention of blenders and re-packagers of expensive race fuel and coerce them into delivering properly volatile fuel to consumers."
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I’m more curious about the half bottle of torco in the tank
Suck as much out as you can (preferably all of it) and then put fresh 91 or 93 octane in it and run it 8-10 minutes several times to try to flush the system out as good as you can. Torco should not be left in the tank over the summer and can cause corrosion/build up on valves if left with a mixture in the tank all summer and not have fresh gas burned through the motor prior to storage (I once had to take a Nytro motor completely apart and do a valve job because the owner parked it with Torco in the tank).
Sledroll
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I have 3 jerry cans of 91 that have been tightly stored all winter , in the boathouse .Suck as much out as you can (preferably all of it) and then put fresh 91 or 93 octane in it and run it 8-10 minutes several times to try to flush the system out as good as you can. Torco should not be left in the tank over the summer and can cause corrosion/build up on valves if left with a mixture in the tank all summer and not have fresh gas burned through the motor prior to storage (I once had to take a Nytro motor completely apart and do a valve job because the owner parked it with Torco in the tank).
Didn't get a chance to use them in the sleds , thought I would , so I didn't add any stabilizer.
What is the recommended procedure to use that gas in my Volvo inboard outboard , to avoid any issues ?
After reading this thread , it sounds like gas issues have the potential to be a bigger problem than ALL of the build issues in ALL sleds combined !
The silent engine killer . LACK OF OCTANE / FUEL SEPERATION !
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I have 3 jerry cans of 91 that have been tightly stored all winter , in the boathouse .
Didn't get a chance to use them in the sleds , thought I would , so I didn't add any stabilizer.
What is the recommended procedure to use that gas in my Volvo inboard outboard , to avoid any issues ?
After reading this thread , it sounds like gas issues have the potential to be a bigger problem than ALL of the build issues in ALL sleds combined !
The silent engine killer . LACK OF OCTANE / FUEL SEPERATION !
If your pump gas has been setting for several months and you are worried about dumping it into a performance engine that is truly octane dependent, use it in your lawn mower and go get fresh gas.
justinator
Lifetime Member
This is a long video but answered alot of common questions people have regarding octane boosters and mmt build up. Its focused around boostane of course but he touches base on the orange build up(mmt) and its long term effects. Since most use mmt its informative none the less. Boostane suggests using it as storage additive and its an upper cylinder lube and controls phase seperation of ethanol fuels. Small doses of additive for slight bump in octane/ safety concerns......say someone buying 91 or 93 octane at the pump wanting to bump it up 2-4 numbers to make sure they have good fuel should experience no side effects like shortened plug life etc. The larger doses where people are mixing higher amounts to achieve 103-116 octane on a regular basis is where things need to be monitored better.
kinger
VIP Member
Suck as much out as you can (preferably all of it) and then put fresh 91 or 93 octane in it and run it 8-10 minutes several times to try to flush the system out as good as you can. Torco should not be left in the tank over the summer and can cause corrosion/build up on valves if left with a mixture in the tank all summer and not have fresh gas burned through the motor prior to storage (I once had to take a Nytro motor completely apart and do a valve job because the owner parked it with Torco in the tank).
This is interesting and good to know. Thanks @Srxspec!
Jd2859
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well looks like I’ll just be pumping it into my boat tank and burning that up this weekend lolSuck as much out as you can (preferably all of it) and then put fresh 91 or 93 octane in it and run it 8-10 minutes several times to try to flush the system out as good as you can. Torco should not be left in the tank over the summer and can cause corrosion/build up on valves if left with a mixture in the tank all summer and not have fresh gas burned through the motor prior to storage (I once had to take a Nytro motor completely apart and do a valve job because the owner parked it with Torco in the tank).
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This are 2 pics from testing my fuel yesterday.
1st pic here is VP C14+, brand new unopened can. RVP should be at 5 psi at 100° (this can of fuel passes my test with a pubic hair under 5 psi)
Now, here is a pic of my VP 113 that I run in my race quads and in my special edition Pace & Safety Buell motorcycle. This fuel was purchased over a year ago and put into a regular plastic fuel jug. But the secret is I have 2 Fitch Fuel Catalysts in the fuel jug. I have been using these FFC's in my fuel jugs for years and they work!
VP 113 over a year old and still pulling good RVP numbers! (Sorry for the tilted pic as the lights where glaring and making the thermometer a mirror.) RVP was just at 7 psi and should be 7.96 per VP standards.
So, to keep fuel fresh, these are what I use in my fuel jugs.
1st pic here is VP C14+, brand new unopened can. RVP should be at 5 psi at 100° (this can of fuel passes my test with a pubic hair under 5 psi)
Now, here is a pic of my VP 113 that I run in my race quads and in my special edition Pace & Safety Buell motorcycle. This fuel was purchased over a year ago and put into a regular plastic fuel jug. But the secret is I have 2 Fitch Fuel Catalysts in the fuel jug. I have been using these FFC's in my fuel jugs for years and they work!
VP 113 over a year old and still pulling good RVP numbers! (Sorry for the tilted pic as the lights where glaring and making the thermometer a mirror.) RVP was just at 7 psi and should be 7.96 per VP standards.
So, to keep fuel fresh, these are what I use in my fuel jugs.
kinger
VIP Member
I had forgot about the FFC magic modules you just drop in gas tanks! Do you have one in the tank on your sled? banging around inside of there as you ride can't be great can it? Can you wire tie it to the fuel pick up or something?
jonlafon1
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They don’t move like you would think. Ran them for many years in all my cats in the late 90’s- 2000’s Thousands of miles in sleds. Never once had a issue with them moving or anything. I suppose if you wanted you could put them on a loop of wire or something for the off season. Pull em when using sled if you concerned of movement in tank. I remember dropping them in thinking ? Are they going to move around and do damage. Then after a few seasons you forget you put them in. LolI had forgot about the FFC magic modules you just drop in gas tanks! Do you have one in the tank on your sled? banging around inside of there as you ride can't be great can it? Can you wire tie it to the fuel pick up or something?
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KnappAttack
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Boostane prevents phase seperation(their claim) and can be mixed with fuel and left unused for periods of time(also their claim) but shelf life of unopened cans is 2 years and opened cans that are properly sealed should be used in a year. Like everything else with mmt you will get some orange residue on everything. I had some boostane in a clear tube for a few months in a cabinet in the cold storage area of my shop and it looked the same as when I poured it in. It doesnt have the flakes floating around like the others that settle to the bottom in short time. Not a lab controlled test but interesting none the less. I mix 16oz of boostane professional in 85 gallons of fuel at a time( bulk tank at home for sleds) to raise from claimed 91 octane to claimed 94.
No issues having it sit a few weeks till fuel is used up and no decrease in effectiveness from what I can see datalogging. Most of them will likely do their part in reducing or eliminating knock, its going to come down to ease of availability, what your comfortable with using, and how much you want to spend. Interesting post though, most people likely focus on the octane increase and not the shelf life or mixed life on the product. Good information to know when deciding on a product to use or try.
I like what I'm reading about this Boostane pro or race formula. When I see the boost the racing formula gives its hard to believe. Looks like you can get by adding a lot less of it compared to the others. I'm going to have to give it try next season and see how it compares.
jonlafon1
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Big HP car guys love it. Been reading for a few days also.
justinator
Lifetime Member
I know I sound like a boostane employee lol but I was really impressed with all the positive feedback on it and 3rd party dyno results. In short it offers everything that the other mmt boosters offer without the seperating and fussy storage/usage “rules”. The professional formula only takes 2.5 oz per 10 gallons to raise the octane 4 numbers. I started using it about 1/2 way through winter so got about 1500 miles running it every tank at about 2-2.5oz per tank. Can goes quite a long way. Phone app tells you precisely how much to use for your desired results so thats handy.Plugs and o2 sensor are orange-ish colored but no build up or crud, just different color which is unavoidable with mmt. Report back next winter! Anxious to hear your thoughts!I like what I'm reading about this Boostane pro or race formula. When I see the boost the racing formula gives its hard to believe. Looks like you can get by adding a lot less of it compared to the others. I'm going to have to give it try next season and see how it compares.
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Hopefully it smells better than what you were using. Nasty! Worse than being behind 2strokes.Big HP car guys love it. Been reading for a few days also.
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