• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Good Track Change Guide

the 2 allens i mentioned before, i was thiking of the p-brake. i think the caliper bolts are a 12mm or something.

07fx thanks for the double check.
 

Just put my 144" freeride in yesterday. Easiest track swap EVER. Didn't need to do "7-there is a bearing retainer w/ 3 bolts behind the bottom gear, remove. " as with the bolts removed on the speedo side the shaft and drivers had enough room to be pulled over to get the shaft out of that retainer.
 
Hey guys I follwed every step here. I got the track in, got the chain case cover on, but when I try to install the brake rotor, I can't seem to get it on all the way.

I can't push it on enough, to the point where I can get all the washers on and the c-clip on the shaft.
I noticed that there was a smaller brass spacer, and a bigger steel spacer behind the 20th gear. When I remove the steel spacer I can get it to go together perfectly, but I know thats incorrect because I pulled 2 spacers out from behind the top gear.

any suggestions?
 
zack, do you have the rotor on the right way? looking & the manual, it appears there is a offset bushing on the rotor assembly.

i don't remember if the gear is offset either, thinking not.

you are right, you need the 2 spacers inside.

let me know if you need a blow up diagram i can get you one.
 
I got it figured out. The small brass bushing went on the outside while the bigger bushing went on the inside. I just looked at a parts fiche and got it dunn
 
So i got my free ride 136 two days ago.. The shop appraised me 4-5 hours for install time that equaling.. 250-300$ They also told me special tools were required.. but i'd rather do this myself. So... if there's no special things required I guess i'll get started!
 
xt_gt said:
whoops, try it again
......
5-drain chain case & remove the chain case cover.
10-then take off the 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft in place.(carefull here)
......
Does the chain tension have to be slacked before Step # 5?

What is the precaution that has to be taken at Step #10?
I guess this would be a good time to check and grease the driveshaft bearings as well? Or with 13,000Km would it be just as well to replace them?
thanks,
BTW, the following link has pics, etc of the procedure:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?p=898105#898105
 
I would replace the Drive bearing speedo side and check the chaincase bearing.Buy Yamaha bearing dont use anything other than stock bearing and wouldnt hurt to add some good grease to it every year.
 
Working on my track change since we are having a snow day tomorrow. Have it all apart and a couple of questions:i

My bearings seem fine but would it be okay to remove the seals and repack the bearings?

Also, is there any need to put grease on the little gear by the speedo sensor?

When I took the bolt off the big gear it seemed to have red loctite (smelled weird) - would blue be okay to use on that?

thanks
 
track change update. I got the axle nuts off with a 4' breaker bar. Grrrrrrr. Now I can't get the bolt out of one side of the shaft in the rear pivot arm bracket. I also can't the little Allen set screws out of the wheel bracket to replace the suspension wheels in the middle by the front suspension bracket. I'm putting new Excel wheels on. Should I just leave the middle ones on? How do I know if my shocks need work as well?
 
Those little Allen screws can be a bugger. Heat from propane torch works or if it's stripped just drill it out and re thread for a bigger dia set screw. Shock are checked by compressing them without springs on. They should come all the way back out smoothly and controlled without making a noise till all the way out. Change all your wheels to excell if you have them.
 
I've had to pound the shaft out working against the allen set screw. Then file or grind the still stuck set screw inside the bracket, fix up the shaft by filing down the gouges from the set screw and then drill and tap the bracket for a new set screw. I found some longer stainless steel ones at a fastener store and used liberal amounts of anti-seize. Having longer ones will make it useful in case the allen head strips and can grab it with vice grips instead.
 
The bolt in the shaft, you probably need to put the opposite bolt back in. Then you will be able to break the stuck bolt loose. Then back them both out by switching side to side.
 


Back
Top