Ground Block No Start

What your looking for when testing the three wires is a continuity between all.In other words when the two leads on your meter are touching each other the reading on the meter should be same or very close to what you see when you do your tests.Pretty much if any of the tests of the three wire show open or same as when leads on meter are not touching one another its bad.Some meters start off with OL or O then give you a reading once the leads are in contact so its hard to tell you what you are seeing without knowing what your meter has for a reading to begin with and leads not touching.The specs account for a broken or deteriorated wire since all wires have some resistance in them but a basic open or closed is normally enough to diagnose a stator.

Also stator is normally tested immediately where first plug is coming out of motor.That is important since the length of the wire changes resistance.

The three wires must be touching(continuity) each other and none grounding to motor.The ground test is important since it shows a shorted stator.Other tests show what would be a broken winding.

Heat changes resistance so specs will change with the weather and engine temp.

A fouled plug takes more resistance as does a plug under compression and in motor.Your looking for a nice bright blue spark and it should spark with plug held a good 1/4" or more away from the engine.

Be sure when cranking it over you disconnect fuel pump.Big time fire hazard!
 
Cannondale i'm a little confused. When i touch the black and red lead together from my tester set an ohms i get 0.00. then i get the exact same reading when i test the white wires.
I though i should see between 0.19 and 0.29 on my meter if its good.
 
black knight said:
Cannondale i'm a little confused. When i touch the black and red lead together from my tester set an ohms i get 0.00. then i get the exact same reading when i test the white wires.
I though i should see between 0.19 and 0.29 on my meter if its good.

Just to follow up, you setup the tester just like the attachment within the link I posted earlier?

Also, the reason my stator blew was because one wire was not attached fully, from when I put that stick through the plastic. So with you and this rodent situation, it could be the same type of problem, where the disconnected wire allowed for the stator to burn itself out.

Also, its super easy to change out a stator, I had to re-do the dealers job once I got the sled home as they used all the wrong bolts (bolts are at least 2-3 different lengths)

We'll help you figure this out ;)!
 
black knight said:
Cannondale i'm a little confused. When i touch the black and red lead together from my tester set an ohms i get 0.00. then i get the exact same reading when i test the white wires.
I though i should see between 0.19 and 0.29 on my meter if its good.

Thats good start and so far your stator is good.Now go from the white wires to ground
 
I had the same thing happen to my sled...squirrel ate wires and gas lines.

I fixed the problem by shooting every living squirrel that set foot on my property.
 
So i went to my buddies to test his stator and some other things against mine(he has a 09 apex)
Test his stator and get the same reading0.00ohms. Plug it back into the rectifier and he trys to start it. Nothing. cranks for 20-30-secs nothing. Gives it some throttle and it starts to spit and sputter and finnaly catches on 2 then 3 then still giving it throttle it starts to smooth out and idle.
Bad Gas. Can't be.
I go home and dump 2 gallons of new gas in it and cycle the pump 6-7 times ,give it some throttle and boom it fires then stalls. try it again spits putters then it catches and starts to run with some throttle eventually runs on its own.
Bad Gas. give me a brake. We both went on one last trip and fueled up at the same gas station halfway threw the day. Niether of us put stabilizer in our tanks with 1/4 tank left.

why after cranking it for ever, (and i turned it over a lot) did i have dry plugs?
Led me to think the injectors weren't spitting. then they start getting wet (after a couple of differnet setions trying to figure it out) and i think its not getting spark or week spark.

Crappy Gas

I feel like a donkey. I hope this is the end of this but if i come back on here later in the year with this very reaccuring problem i hope someone has the hart to help me.LOL

I tested the voltage at the jumpers and had 14 volts at about 2200rpm

I am going to kill every fury animal within 5 miles of here and have a bar-b-q.

Thanks to all for your replies and i hope this is the end for me on this one.

Thanks for the Lesson.
 
Awesome!Glad you got it figured out.This year for storage I am putting Turbo Blue race gas in it.It never seems to go bad and isnt much more than premium right now.Cant trust any pump gas it seems.
 
Not that it matters much but that is why I always syphon most of my gas out come storage time, I Sea-Foam the remaining, let it run ten minutes and I am good to go.
In the fall there is lots of room for some fresh winter gas, treat it with Sea-Foam initially and then a few times during the season and your golden.

I also stay away from premium fuels, imo they are more than likely the worse fuels to run as they are the oldest types of gas as not many people run them.
 
I'm wondering if the new ethanol fuel causing this. From what I have heard it goes bad very quickly even with stabilizer and in some cases can cause damage to plastic fuel tanks. I think they just legislated 10% ethanol for all fuel grades here so this may become a frequent problem. I'm thinking I should drain ours as a precaution. Glad she's running for ya--the cheap way too.
 
Irv i'm a big beleiver i see foam ,just didn't think after 5 weeks out of the ground it would become crap in a sealed gas tank.I also didn't think a mouse would move in that quick.
:die
 


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