tetchan
Newbie
Thanks for the responses guys. I will bring them and circuit tester.
I don't have the bulletin explaining it. Do you have?
I am worry about the real cause of the problem.
I will explain my situation to make certain if it's code 81/43 problem or not.
1, 4 yeas ago, I bought used sled.
Previous owner told me that sometimes starter motor does not rev when turn the key.
So I changed the starter relay and put water proof grease.
I saw some corrosion on the relay tab but never checked grounding block.
2, Last Sunday after 50 km run, the engine stopped when I was about to take a rest.
Soon I turned the key but no sound , yellow caution lamp and engine mark on.
I thought the over heating engine caused this caution and forced to stop.
After 3 minutes I could start it and run 5 minutes, then I stopped the sled intentionally.
3, I tried restart but starter turned only 1 second twice, then stopped forever with no sound from fuel pump.
I checked inside the right cover, oil level dip because oil caution was flashing too.
I thought It might caused by an 90 degree roll over on my way.
I never saw code 30 which mean low oil pressure.
I should have wiggled the wire area
At this time I didn't know code 81/43 meanings and almost believed the low oil level caused it.
Finally we left ,because of the sunset.
That's all.
The engine didn't lost power to the end ,so I think it's not seized.
I think it's caused by over 90% code 81/43 problem but I worry about 10%. Any opinion?
I don't have the bulletin explaining it. Do you have?
I am worry about the real cause of the problem.
I will explain my situation to make certain if it's code 81/43 problem or not.
1, 4 yeas ago, I bought used sled.
Previous owner told me that sometimes starter motor does not rev when turn the key.
So I changed the starter relay and put water proof grease.
I saw some corrosion on the relay tab but never checked grounding block.
2, Last Sunday after 50 km run, the engine stopped when I was about to take a rest.
Soon I turned the key but no sound , yellow caution lamp and engine mark on.
I thought the over heating engine caused this caution and forced to stop.
After 3 minutes I could start it and run 5 minutes, then I stopped the sled intentionally.
3, I tried restart but starter turned only 1 second twice, then stopped forever with no sound from fuel pump.
I checked inside the right cover, oil level dip because oil caution was flashing too.
I thought It might caused by an 90 degree roll over on my way.
I never saw code 30 which mean low oil pressure.
I should have wiggled the wire area
At this time I didn't know code 81/43 meanings and almost believed the low oil level caused it.
Finally we left ,because of the sunset.
That's all.
The engine didn't lost power to the end ,so I think it's not seized.
I think it's caused by over 90% code 81/43 problem but I worry about 10%. Any opinion?
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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Here's the bulletin. Unless the wiring and/or the yellow connector has melted, I don't think this is your problem. If they are melted, then this could very well be the cause you all your problems.
You didn't indicate what year your Phazer is. If it's a 2007, which I suspect, then you might have several problems.
A code 43 indicates a problem with the ECU unable to read the voltage. Check the battery to make sure it is still good and fully charged. Bring another battery or a booster pack to try and start it with that. If it does start, check to see that the stator is charging. Voltage should be higher than 12V (up to 14V) while running. Code 81 indicates a problem with the grip warmers. Might also be voltage related or could be the cause if they're shorted. Try disconnecting them and check if they are open or have a short.
If the starter refuses to turn the engine, either the solenoid (starter relay) is defective again or the starter may have loosened its bolts. Please see this thread for info on this specific problem and how to diagnose and repair it.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
For the fuel pump not running, it could be related to a possible problem with the voltage/battery or it's the fuel pump relay. As a precaution and to eliminate that possibility, replace it with the new solid state one, part # 8GN-81950-00-00.
You didn't indicate what year your Phazer is. If it's a 2007, which I suspect, then you might have several problems.
A code 43 indicates a problem with the ECU unable to read the voltage. Check the battery to make sure it is still good and fully charged. Bring another battery or a booster pack to try and start it with that. If it does start, check to see that the stator is charging. Voltage should be higher than 12V (up to 14V) while running. Code 81 indicates a problem with the grip warmers. Might also be voltage related or could be the cause if they're shorted. Try disconnecting them and check if they are open or have a short.
If the starter refuses to turn the engine, either the solenoid (starter relay) is defective again or the starter may have loosened its bolts. Please see this thread for info on this specific problem and how to diagnose and repair it.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
For the fuel pump not running, it could be related to a possible problem with the voltage/battery or it's the fuel pump relay. As a precaution and to eliminate that possibility, replace it with the new solid state one, part # 8GN-81950-00-00.
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tetchan
Newbie
Mooseman, Thank you very much for your imformation.
I understood the structure of connectors and what repair I should do.
My sled is "07 PHAZER Mountain Lite" in Japan not later MTX model.
http://global.yamaha-motor.com/jp/news/ ... obile.html
I think code 43 and 81 might be caused by the poor ground connection as a side effect.
On that day, very cold weather and powder snow let me put the warner max level.
Also the darkness was coming ,I switched high beam light.
Those big current killed the poor ground connector, I guess.
I will check the motor bolt and new relay.
Again thank you very much.
I understood the structure of connectors and what repair I should do.
My sled is "07 PHAZER Mountain Lite" in Japan not later MTX model.
http://global.yamaha-motor.com/jp/news/ ... obile.html
I think code 43 and 81 might be caused by the poor ground connection as a side effect.
On that day, very cold weather and powder snow let me put the warner max level.
Also the darkness was coming ,I switched high beam light.
Those big current killed the poor ground connector, I guess.
I will check the motor bolt and new relay.
Again thank you very much.
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2009
- Messages
- 3,963
- Location
- Greely, Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- '07 Venture MP (gone)
'07 Phazer FX (gone)
'09 Phazer GT (gone)
'10 RS Venture GT (My current ride)
'10 Nytro FX (son's)
- LOCATION
- Greely, ON Canada
You're very welcome my friend. I do believe you are the first one from Japan on the forum, the birth place of all our sleds. I guess the mountains would be the only place where you can snowmobile.
tetchan
Newbie
Dauna Holtorf
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Does anyone have the s2009-008 Bulletin they could send me?
Cubby
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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2007 Yamaha Phazer GT
PM me your email address and I sent it to you.
Dauna Holtorf
Newbie
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So I got the bulletin but I have a question now... My husband pulled out all the wires on the yellow connector and is unsure which wires are number 5 and 6 any suggestions on how to test which are the number 5 and 6 wires?
I see the issue. They aren't marked. I would bet they are the grounds for headlights and handwarmers. All the bulletin accomplishes is splitting up the grounds to lessen the load/heat. He could find the headlight and warmer grounds by having them on and removing 1 ground at a time till the headlights go out and same for handwarmers. It probably doesn't matter though since splitting off any grounds will for sure help lessen the load. If it were me I would just pick 3 wires connect them and run ground direct to battery.
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
OLD thread here, but I recently checked mine and the update was never done. I had no damage, corrosion or melting but decided to fix it anyway. I used a meter to figure out the headlight grounds, 1 for each headlight.
All you need to do is open the ground block cap (yellow connector) and lift up the metal bus bar in it. then take your headlight out. Stick one of your meter probes into the ground (black) on a headlight and find continuity at the pins on in the connector. They are right beside each other, next to the corner that does not have a wire in it. I grounded them directly to the battery like the bulletin shows.
I am not 100% what pins 5&6 are but grounding the headlights separately will take about 8 amps or so out of that ground bus and should never give any trouble. I did not use a bus connector, simply left some slack (which you can't really see in the pic) on the wire and used butt connectors and heat shrink. I did them in yellow so I would remember same colour as yellow bus.
Again I know this is old but I am sure there are still a bunch out there that were never fixed. (Pay no attention to the sleeved red/white, It is just for some LED's I have up front)
All you need to do is open the ground block cap (yellow connector) and lift up the metal bus bar in it. then take your headlight out. Stick one of your meter probes into the ground (black) on a headlight and find continuity at the pins on in the connector. They are right beside each other, next to the corner that does not have a wire in it. I grounded them directly to the battery like the bulletin shows.
I am not 100% what pins 5&6 are but grounding the headlights separately will take about 8 amps or so out of that ground bus and should never give any trouble. I did not use a bus connector, simply left some slack (which you can't really see in the pic) on the wire and used butt connectors and heat shrink. I did them in yellow so I would remember same colour as yellow bus.
Again I know this is old but I am sure there are still a bunch out there that were never fixed. (Pay no attention to the sleeved red/white, It is just for some LED's I have up front)
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canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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I went to my dealer on Tuesday and gave him the bulletin. he looked up my VIN and said the handwarmer update was done but not the ground block. He then went and brought out a harness and gave it to me. Took about a 1/2 hr. to do. There was no evidence of a meltdown and I already had an extra ground wire lug on the the battery with 2 wires going into a connector. I assume that was part of the handwarmer upgrade. I now have 4 ground wire lugs going to my battery not including my visor wire. So whether I needed it or not I have piece of mind that this won't strand us somewhere.
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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He's a question, why does Yamaha want the ground wires connected to the battery in a specific way (45° to each other).
MikeWalters
TY 4 Stroke Master
No reason. Just so you dont stack the ground lugs up on each other and possible not have your negative terminal tightened down fully.He's a question, why does Yamaha want the ground wires connected to the battery in a specific way (45° to each other).
Ruggybuggy
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Makes sense.
Stephen T Larimer
Newbie
So, New member here, Been Riding yamahas for 30 plus years, but have transistioned from Nitros oxide hill climbers to an 08 and 07 phazer to primarily hunt cats off of. Bought low mile sleds used and have ran flawlessly for the past three months. Saturday I satrted my 08, it ran 30 seconds and shut down . Codes 81 and 43. through the magic of google I found this forum after reading a few threads I checked the ground block and sure enough it was burnt. I live a long ways from a dealer so I simply cut the wires seperated them into groups of three soilderd new leads, heat shrunk and ran back to battery. Wah Lah she runs like a champ again. Sunday I decided to let my son ride the 08 and I rode the 07, after an hour or so riding I got a yellow flashing warning light on the 07 so I shut down and checked codes, I had the most recent code 11, 22,46,84, I reset and cleared to make sure non were in history and continued to ride later again I recieved a code 11 only which says possibly a short in cylinder id. or bad connection. I've checked all connections and sled runs fine with light on. The yellow block is still on this sled but does not look hot or melted, I will do the same change out I did on the 08 tonight and see if it corrects issue but if not anyone got any ideas.Makes sense.
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