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Help with new sled build!!!

ktmhk53

Suspended
Joined
Jul 4, 2006
Messages
64
Hi guys,
I'm about to pull the trigger on a new hyper-trail sled build, and have a few questions, but first, the background:
  • I'm not committed to either Cat or Yammie,
  • The color of any part can always be changed by a wrap/poweder-coat/etc.
  • The riding terrain will be a mix of 75% hard/loose trails (smooth and rough), and 25% off-trail
The changes:
  • Larger Turbo
  • MoteC controller
  • Hi-perf Rods, Pistons, Cyl./head Studs, etc
  • Upgraded fuel system
  • Hi-perf Primary & Secondary Clutches
  • Race fuel requirement acceptable
  • 325-500 HP anticipated
  • ZBroz/Exit or Elka suspension
Requirement:
  • 141 x 1.6" (preferably) OR 137 x 1.25 or 1.5" track, either w/Stud Boy Studs and SuperLight Stud Backers
2513-web-1.jpg


So now the hard part.... which sled to choose:

img.jpg

2020 Yamaha Sidewinder SRX LE:

Pros -
$500 Accessory Credit
5 year Warranty
New Front End
Acceptable color
Cons -
High Price
No need for the expensive iQS® suspension
Will a 1.6" lug track fit?
Will a taller suspension fit?


ZR9000Thundercat_137_1_iACT_Elect_Blk-Grn_Hero_1400x560_1.png

2020 ZR 9000 Thundercat:

Pros-
Best Price
New Front End
Cons-
Acceptable color (partially)
No Accessory credit on a 2020 model

Poor Warranty
Will a 1.6" lug track fit?
Will a taller suspension fit?


img.jpg

2020 Yamaha Sidewinder L-TX LE:

Pros -
$500 Accessory Credit
5 year Warranty
New Front End
Good color
Cons -
High Price
No need for the expensive iQS® suspension
Will a 1.6" lug track fit?


img.jpg

2020 Yamaha Sidewinder L-TX SE:

Pros -
$500 Accessory Credit
5 year Warranty
New Front End
Acceptable color
Cons -
Mid-level Price
Will a 1.6" lug track fit?


img.jpg

2019 Yamaha Sidewinder L-TX LE:

Pros-
1 year Warranty
Existing 141 x 1.6" track
Good color
Left-over Price
Cons-
No need for the expensive iQS® suspension

img.jpg

2019 Sidewinder X-TX SE:

Pros-
1 year Warranty
Existing 141 x 1.6" track
Left-over Price
Cons-
Undesirable color

So there it is.

I welcome your opinion on which sled to start with, and once chosen I will post a real-time complete built report on the sled on this forum

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

If your planning to run that much power and spending that much money, I'd be doing a late model 2016 or newer 1200 Motec Ski-Doo hands down. You can buy them out of Canada from the guys for way less the building a Yamaha 998. The Doo 1200 is a much better engine for big boost power than the 998. They run 365HP on pump fuel and over 500 on race fuel easily. And are way lighter machines than the 998s by a bunch! Another thing is you won't have a subpar Cat driveline!

Also don't mess with those single pro-lite backers, do the doubles.
 
Pro-lite backers are nice and add a unique look to your track. Problem is they spin easy, they strip easy when you try to tighten them up and the edges wear fast when you crank up the HP. IMO, stick to aluminum backers for light weight and strength and go double backers for added rigidity.
In regards to which sled, your obviously able to wrap, paint and chalk up you own graphics, your swapping suspension so no need for top line with fox shocks.
I suggest by Whatever model gets you the cheapest deal on a 998 is the way you should go.
Also, check with @ROCKERDAN
He is selling his sled, great bang for the buck.
 
Just buy a leftover Viper/cat 7000 if you are going to redo everything like that. The only benefit to buying a sidewinder over a viper is if you're just going to do a simple flash. I wouldn't trust those superlites with that much power either.
 
You gotta have the bling bling backers to set the sled off :) ...
 
Why don’t you just get the 2020 xtx it’s the riot 146 with 1.6” track the new front end and has the sidewinder motor unlike any of the riots. Saves a lot of track swaps and suspension changes and gives you the cross over it sounds like you’re looking for if that length is a requirement
 
Also you don’t need to do half of that work to get in that hp range. Hell you can get Into the 300s with a flash fuel pump and exhaust on race fuel. I believe they are I to the 400s in stock turbo stock Internals with race fuel with proper accessories.
 
Thanks,
The 2020 Yamaha Sidewinder X-TX LE has a track with a 1.6" lug, but I'm not sure it's 146" length isn't a bit too long for my 75% trail riding, and the specs talk about Mountain-type front and rear suspension, handlebar, seat, and skis, which again, may not be best suited for my riding terrain. I'll have to give it a more thorough review before deciding if its a contender...


From a HP perspective, I'd just rather have an overbuilt power plant. Peace of Mind...
img.jpg
 
If your planning to run that much power and spending that much money, I'd be doing a late model 2016 or newer 1200 Motec Ski-Doo hands down. You can buy them out of Canada from the guys for way less the building a Yamaha 998. The Doo 1200 is a much better engine for big boost power than the 998. They run 365HP on pump fuel and over 500 on race fuel easily. And are way lighter machines than the 998s by a bunch! Another thing is you won't have a subpar Cat driveline!

Also don't mess with those single pro-lite backers, do the doubles.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm researching these builds now...
 
The front end on all of the sleds has changed to the “mountain” type front end. That’s what the upper a arm and spindle are modeled after. The extra cpl inches of rear suspension won’t be that bad, compaired to what you already want especially woth the all new designed rear suspension. That sled was literally built for what you want to have. Both 141 and the 146 are uncoupled skids. However the 146 has been designed to handle the trails really well. It runs the mtn seat that lots of guys put on their trail sled, that post is actually right here on page 1 or 2 of the forum. And by mountain handlebars they mean it has the handlebar strap on it. You’re more than welcome to throw as much money at it as you want I’m just telling you the sled you wants actually built.
 
I like the idea of the uncoupled skid, mainly just for the fun it brings with the ability to wheelie at will with even a mild tune when on the trails.
Is there any reason it would be detrimental when having much higher HP (350-500)?

I'm now also thinking that the 146" length will help much more in actually putting the increased HP down to the snow (on or off trail)....
 
I like the idea of the uncoupled skid, mainly just for the fun it brings with the ability to wheelie at will with even a mild tune when on the trails.
Is there any reason it would be detrimental when having much higher HP (350-500)?

I'm now also thinking that the 146" length will help much more in actually putting the increased HP down to the snow (on or off trail)....
Uncoupled skid is by far the biggest giggle factor.....the issue is trail riding, it just does not work well for high speed trail riding and also bumps become tougher to ride.

Definitely more aimed for off trail.

Dan
 
Thanks Dan!
How big is the trail bump absorption problem?
My last 141" TD tuned 1100 turbo Cat was uncoupled, and with a full Zbroz/Exit suspension setup it felt like a magic-carpet on the trails, no matter how rough they were or how fast I rode.
 
Pro-lite backers are nice and add a unique look to your track. Problem is they spin easy, they strip easy when you try to tighten them up and the edges wear fast when you crank up the HP. IMO, stick to aluminum backers for light weight and strength and go double backers for added rigidity.
In regards to which sled, your obviously able to wrap, paint and chalk up you own graphics, your swapping suspension so no need for top line with fox shocks.
I suggest by Whatever model gets you the cheapest deal on a 998 is the way you should go.
Also, check with @ROCKERDAN
He is selling his sled, great bang for the buck.

With regards to StudBoy ProLite backers, have you considered using doubles? See pics. More rigid and lighter than aluminum setup. For 192 studs (1.630") Stud Boy Lake Racers and StudBoy double ProLite backers, it's was almost exactly 2 lbs lighter for same number of studs. The way you keep them from stripping is to tap them first. I got this tip directly from StudBoy. Tap them (in my case w Stud Boy studs it was 1/4-28 threads) and then use Professional Super Glue when screwing them in. NO issues with loosening or unscrewing, etc. Locked so good you'll have to heat them to get them out!
 

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